Builds 400HP Turbo 80 build (4 Viewers)

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scottryana said:
I didn't get much help nor a good vibe from Head Games, they almost seemed too bothered to want to deal with the 1FZ head.

If cost is an issue, than yes keep things stock. You can do what you want on all stock components. If you want to get faster spool, better flow, etc spend your money and go bigger valves, port and polish, gasket match, etc.

If you are keeping stock rev limit, no need for titanium or changing the shim on buckets. The crossover point is about 6000rpms. If you are going with lighter rods, pistons and pins and plan on revving higher with higher spring pressure you will want to look at changing the shim on buckets and lighter weight retainers, etc.

You just need to figure out what your plan is so that you can pick the right path for it.

If you are staying with a 5500rpm redline, you only want 400hp, you don't have to change anything. I have been doing it for over 3 years.

If you want to get crazy and really push things, no one in the US is doing it, you will have to be your own pioneer, but it has been proven in AUD and UAE that these engines are not rocket science, more air and more fuel equals more power. Higher RPM's need shimless buckets or shim under buckets. Too much cylinder pressure and you can float a valve. Better flow means the same power at less boost, less boost means less heat, less heat means less chance for detonation. So pick your plan and stick with it.

View attachment 1507920
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Why only the three ports, any guesses as why they are so different? No exhaust?
 
Yes sorry, this isn't my head, but a friend of mine. It is only 3 ports because he only hand ported the one cylinder and wanted to test it before he spent a bunch of time doing the others. Cylinder 3 was the one he thought would see the least increase in flow just because it had the least casting flash, machining ridges, etc, so he ported it and then tested 1 and 2 to make sure the were the same.

This is a very mild clean up with some smoothing and a +1mm bigger valve.

But you can see it went from 247 to 278 so there was a nice 12.5% increase.

hazard said:
Why only the three ports, any guesses as why they are so different? No exhaust?
Click to expand...
 
I was doing some turbo thread searching and read a post by @guzzla where he said a nice multi angle valve grind with a big back cut (30°?) made a big difference in flow on stock valve size. Makes sense
 
scottryana said:
Yes sorry, this isn't my head, but a friend of mine. It is only 3 ports because he only hand ported the one cylinder and wanted to test it before he spent a bunch of time doing the others. Cylinder 3 was the one he thought would see the least increase in flow just because it had the least casting flash, machining ridges, etc, so he ported it and then tested 1 and 2 to make sure the were the same.

This is a very mild clean up with some smoothing and a +1mm bigger valve.

But you can see it went from 247 to 278 so there was a nice 12.5% increase.
Click to expand...
So were 1 & 2 stock, or also ported?
Thanks
 
So as I was breaking down my motor today a thought came to my mind, would it make sense to eliminate the EGR and desmog since I am going with the Haltech engine management. I live in South Carolina so I don't need to worry about inspection.
 
Yes!

aquatech3 said:
So as I was breaking down my motor today a thought came to my mind, would it make sense to eliminate the EGR and desmog since I am going with the Haltech engine management. I live in South Carolina so I don't need to worry about inspection.
Click to expand...
 
aquatech3 said:
So as I was breaking down my motor today a thought came to my mind, would it make sense to eliminate the EGR and desmog since I am going with the Haltech engine management. I live in South Carolina so I don't need to worry about inspection.
Click to expand...
YES X2. Get that head gasket cookin' ,wire harness burnin' , crap outta there.
 
Verified the ARP head studs also fit the main caps. Just ordered a second set.

IMG_3659.JPG
 
scottryana said:
They do but they don't. You will have to clearance the studs or the cast oil pan before you tighten it down or you will crack it.
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That is the kind of information that can save a day from turning bad. :beer: to you @scottryana
 
scottryana said:
They do but they don't. You will have to clearance the studs or the cast oil pan before you tighten it down or you will crack it.
Click to expand...
Yes I did see that in someone's build thread where they cracked the cast cover. I haven't dry fit it yet to see which one it is but if I remember correctly it's one of the two on the #1 cap. I will grind out a small area for the clearance like he did.
 
scottryana said:
Looking good. You might also want to get a long shaft 1/4" carbide to reach inside the ports at least to get the casting lines.
Click to expand...
Yes I am already looking for a longer mandrel for the sanding cones as well as a longer double cut carbide for cleaning up the hard to reach areas.
 
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