Yeah the Carillo SA's are awesome! Great choice!
Builds 400HP Turbo 80 build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter aquatech3
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Are the aftermarket piston wrist pins the same size as stock? 2.750"x1.024" What wall thickness are they? Do they advertise the material? Thanks!
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- #103
Not sure I will have to measure them and get back to you.
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- #104
More cool parts showed up...now the machine shop can get busy.
Oh wow they back cut your valves a lot more then they did mine!!
AutoCraft Aus
Araco Master
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We normally piggyback the factory ecu inc TPS, just so it thinks its controlling stuff, inc the auto so it works. We use a custom Microtech with dash display and canbus for our set ups.
400 crank hp, even 400 rw hp isnt a drama on all stock engine parts, auto wont like it though.
My last one was 400hp on all stock 400hp 250,000 mile engine except head gasket I changed this year to a cometic 1 up thickness to allow for machining, as thats the best detonation protection on a 4.5 with boost.
Have run 25 psi on stock pistons, rods, all ARP bolts, making just over 430 hp @ wheels too. Used Motec for those ones.
400 crank hp, even 400 rw hp isnt a drama on all stock engine parts, auto wont like it though.
My last one was 400hp on all stock 400hp 250,000 mile engine except head gasket I changed this year to a cometic 1 up thickness to allow for machining, as thats the best detonation protection on a 4.5 with boost.
Have run 25 psi on stock pistons, rods, all ARP bolts, making just over 430 hp @ wheels too. Used Motec for those ones.
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Yeah I will have to get a side profile shot and compare to yours to see how much they did. Now I am curiousOh wow they back cut your valves a lot more then they did mine!!
Where is this project at?
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Greenville South Carolina
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Figured I would give an update. I am currently still waiting for the block and head to get back from the machine shop and hopefully I will see them both in the next week or so.
While I am waiting I went ahead and did the Transgo shift kit which was pretty straight forward after reading a couple threads on the install. I also pulled the transfer case apart and did the part time kit from cruiser outfitters. I still need to either have the birfs I have machined or buy a set with the groove already machined. While apart I went ahead and replaced all the bearings, races and seals. 300k miles and the originals were surprisingly like new still....beefy setup. I did have to fab a tool to get the two inner races out which consisted of a slide hammer with a lady slipper type hook welded to the end. Other than that pretty simple with a press and some various sized pieces of pipe and sockets for pressing the different size bearings.
While I am waiting I went ahead and did the Transgo shift kit which was pretty straight forward after reading a couple threads on the install. I also pulled the transfer case apart and did the part time kit from cruiser outfitters. I still need to either have the birfs I have machined or buy a set with the groove already machined. While apart I went ahead and replaced all the bearings, races and seals. 300k miles and the originals were surprisingly like new still....beefy setup. I did have to fab a tool to get the two inner races out which consisted of a slide hammer with a lady slipper type hook welded to the end. Other than that pretty simple with a press and some various sized pieces of pipe and sockets for pressing the different size bearings.
400hp and part time will be fun. Smokey
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That's the idea.....donuts on 35's!
Why not use spacers? I've seen others mention machining the Birfield, but my Lokka part time kit came with spacers for '95 - '97 rigs.
So, I'm really fuzzy on the engine management side of this, but was there no way to piggy-back the stock ECM? Since I need to maintain the emissions stuff I'm curious if it's possible to maintain OBDII legitimacy somehow.
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I am not 100% sure because I have been only researching based on my build which here in South Carolina we dont have emissions checks. I am pretty sure you can piggy back the factory ECM so that both the factory ECM as well as the new ECM can share the O2 signal inputs. The only difference is that the factory ECM will think it is controlling the ignition system based on those signal but in reality the piggyback ECM will be. The reason this wont work on my application is because I am installing a new exhaust and eliminating the cats and the post cat O2 sensor and installing only a single wideband O2. You may have to install a wideband O2 sensor as well as keep your original 2 factory narrowband sensors for programming purposes. Like I said before though I haven't researched that route so I may be way off.
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I haven't read about the spacer I will have to look into that. It does make more sense than going through the trouble of machining.
It'd be pretty easy to make one if you had the right ID tubing. Or a lathe, then it wouldn't matter what you started with.
Plus, the bonus to using a spacer is that you don't have to disassemble the front end to remove the birfs.
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So the block and head came back from the machine shop. Had a good time assembling the pistons and rods though the JE piston pin clips were a pain until I figured out a technique using a pick to work them in. I decided to use a catalytic single stage paint for the block, head and valve cover. Standard black and Toyota Barcelona Red for the valve cover to give it the TRD look.
Waiting for my Cometic head gasket to show up tomorrow. I went with .066 thick.
Also cleaned up the intake, bottom cover and other aluminum parts using Alumibrite and was impressed how well it brightened up. Hopefully will have the motor back in the truck next week.
Waiting for my Cometic head gasket to show up tomorrow. I went with .066 thick.
Also cleaned up the intake, bottom cover and other aluminum parts using Alumibrite and was impressed how well it brightened up. Hopefully will have the motor back in the truck next week.
Did you end up using stock 1FZ buckets and shims?
