Looks like 4x4 labs bumper to me. F/R
Thanks, Looks like it is
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Looks like 4x4 labs bumper to me. F/R
Mud owner .?
Looks like 4x4 labs bumper to me. F/R
Two mudders have owned the black one posted on the drag strip; jgwinc and now belongs to bahamasair. I got to see it many years ago as he lived part time in my town. Funny thing is that 10 years ago when he posted a turbo 80 build up he got all kinds of flack on here for (mostly the wheels) but the whole why turbo a 4x4 truck and kinda faded away, not that i can blame him.
Yes it's a modified 4x4labs front bumper. I added skid wings to both side to give it a more finished look but also to protect the A/C drier and the core supports and not have to cut them out.Home brew front bar?
Got any more pics somewhere? Looks interesting, I'd like to see more pics
Yes it's a modified 4x4labs front bumper. I added skid wings to both side to give it a more finished look but also to protect the A/C drier and the core supports and not have to cut them out.
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Thanks for the info, I found these rods for $1183 atCarillo makes 3 sets of rods, the Super A and the H beam with 2 options of arb cap bolts. The super A are cheaper and lighter.
Super A's appear to be $1300 at Summit. I am sure if you hit the smaller speed shops you could get them cheaper. My plug for Titan Motorsports can go here since they helped me with my super H's.
Carrillo Pro-SA Connecting Rods TO-1FZFE<SA-66063H-6
Yes the oil passageways were plugged in a couple of the rods so not knowing how badly they overheated I'm not willing to risk reusing them especially since I plan on eventually pushing the motor up to 600-700 hp. I was also concerned if the passageways were plugged insufficient oil to the wrist pins may have occurred.@aquatech3 whats wrong with the rods you had in it ? Surely they weren't affected by the oil starvation.
I talked to Ferrea this morning and they said I do need to replace the stock locators with theirs if I using their springs and retainers but they also said you can use stock valves unless I plan to go oversized. With the turbo application it would make sense to invest in the +1mm turbo exhaust valves and +1mm intake valves.
I also talked to my local machine shop and got a quote for labor to do the following:
1.Complete head rebuild and deck the head
2.Complete Ferrea valve train install
3.Cut seats for +1mm valves
4.Hot tank and check block
5. Freeze plugs
6. Cylinders honed
7. Align bored due to ARP main studs
8. Piston to rod assembly
9. Crank polish
10. Spec sizes for parts needed
$1300 labor
Additional $150 if head needs to be align bored
I didn't get a price for rotating assembly balance yet. Some say it's not necessary on inline 6 and 4 cylinders but I am not sure I agree. I am using new JE forged pistons and Carrillo Pro-SA rods so I would think it would be important to balance with the stock crank.
Thoughts?.....
Hey that is a great idea I know a few military guys.... @JToobeThat seems like a fair price given the amount of work they will be doing!
I would definitely balance the assembly. Depending on the rods and pistons you choose they could be considerably lighter than stock, like 1300g vs 1600g if I remember correctly.
Another thing that might be helpful is Ferrea gives a really great military discount, I think it was like 25 or 30% so if you were in the military make sure you let them know. Or have someone you know that is/was military buy for you. Saved me a couple hundred dollars.
Yeah the ones I am using are the standard dual spring setup.And just to provide a little clarification, Ferrea has 2 sets of springs for the 1FZ, the standard and the beehive. You only need their retainers with the beehive since they are several (I think 3mm shorter) than the standard springs.
Yeah the ones I am using are the standard dual spring setup.
Have you thought about getting a head from a 105 series?I talked to Ferrea this morning and they said I do need to replace the stock locators with theirs if I using their springs and retainers but they also said you can use stock valves unless I plan to go oversized. With the turbo application it would make sense to invest in the +1mm turbo exhaust valves and +1mm intake valves.
I also talked to my local machine shop and got a quote for labor to do the following:
1.Complete head rebuild and deck the head
2.Complete Ferrea valve train install
3.Cut seats for +1mm valves
4.Hot tank and check block
5. Freeze plugs
6. Cylinders honed
7. Align bored due to ARP main studs
8. Piston to rod assembly
9. Crank polish
10. Spec sizes for parts needed
$1300 labor
Additional $150 if head needs to be align bored
I didn't get a price for rotating assembly balance yet. Some say it's not necessary on inline 6 and 4 cylinders but I am not sure I agree. I am using new JE forged pistons and Carrillo Pro-SA rods so I would think it would be important to balance with the stock crank.
Thoughts?.....
Have you thought about getting a head from a 105 series?
Not that one would want to waste an opportunity for more efficiency, but since you are going turbo on this engine and "only" looking for 600 hp potential, maybe the possible improvement of the 105 head would be nearly negated by being able to simply crank up the boost a smidge? I like the 105 head concept too, but it seems it would really shine with a naturally aspirated application.