Builds 400HP Turbo 80 build (4 Viewers)

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Mud owner .?



Looks like 4x4 labs bumper to me. F/R

Two mudders have owned the black one posted on the drag strip; jgwinc and now belongs to bahamasair. I got to see it many years ago as he lived part time in my town. Funny thing is that 10 years ago when he posted a turbo 80 build up he got all kinds of flack on here for (mostly the wheels) but the whole why turbo a 4x4 truck and kinda faded away, not that i can blame him.

Yep it's mine now. It's still running the old HKS turbo at the moment but pretty much everything else has been changed. I rebuilt the engine, reused the JE forged pistons and rods that were in there but changed everything else. The piston rings that were in there had the biggest gap in the compression ring I've ever seen. It has 17" rims with 35s now instead of the 22''s that were on it. I have 4x4 labs slightly modified front bumper with 4x4 sliders and rear bumper with a 3ish" lift. It was running an emanage ultimate piggyback that had a spoof table for the maf to keep the original ecu happyish and used a map sensor for its own fueling calcs. Shortly after the engine rebuild it developed a miss that followed one of the injectors. After sending them all to witch hunters twice for cleaning and having them all test good both times with the same miss following the same injector I gave up on the 545cc that were in it and got the Injector Dynamics id725. Then I recently got the coil on plugs setup from Spartan and a haltech Elite 2000. I don't have any spare time for the cruiser right now to actually install and tune the Haltech but am finishing up a friends Mustang build in the next 2 weeks and will be back on it. I love the feel of the turbo cruiser and think you're shooting for a good power level with 400hp. It gets expensive after that with transmission mods. I have no idea what my HP was but at 22lbs it was pretty lively higher up in the revs. The piggyback isn't very good at keeping everything happy and I did have knock errors on the stock ecu if I hit red line for any extended period of time. I looked at the elite 750 but it has no knock control and my past experiences have made me appreciate the ability to retard timing based on knock.
 
Home brew front bar?
Got any more pics somewhere? Looks interesting, I'd like to see more pics
Yes it's a modified 4x4labs front bumper. I added skid wings to both side to give it a more finished look but also to protect the A/C drier and the core supports and not have to cut them out.

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First parts showing up of a large list of goodies I need.
I called to get options for connecting rods and the only ones of quality I have found so far are Carillo Ibeams for $1,700....ouch. Along with the JE forged pistons for $999.
Any one have ideas for alternative rods?

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Carillo makes 3 sets of rods, the Super A and the H beam with 2 options of arb cap bolts. The super A are cheaper and lighter.

Super A's appear to be $1300 at Summit. I am sure if you hit the smaller speed shops you could get them cheaper. My plug for Titan Motorsports can go here since they helped me with my super H's.

Carrillo Pro-SA Connecting Rods TO-1FZFE<SA-66063H-6
 
@aquatech3 whats wrong with the rods you had in it ? Surely they weren't affected by the oil starvation.
Yes the oil passageways were plugged in a couple of the rods so not knowing how badly they overheated I'm not willing to risk reusing them especially since I plan on eventually pushing the motor up to 600-700 hp. I was also concerned if the passageways were plugged insufficient oil to the wrist pins may have occurred.

I am going to now pull the motor from my 80 and tear apart to inspect the rotating assembly of it as well which I am sure is in much better condition than this spare motor. My thought process is even if the components are in good working condition I still am not comfortable pushing the factory rods to their limit of 600hp or so, I would rather have a bullet proof lower end along with peace of mind.
 
I talked to Ferrea this morning and they said I do need to replace the stock locators with theirs if I using their springs and retainers but they also said you can use stock valves unless I plan to go oversized. With the turbo application it would make sense to invest in the +1mm turbo exhaust valves and +1mm intake valves.
I also talked to my local machine shop and got a quote for labor to do the following:

1.Complete head rebuild and deck the head
2.Complete Ferrea valve train install
3.Cut seats for +1mm valves
4.Hot tank and check block
5. Freeze plugs
6. Cylinders honed
7. Align bored due to ARP main studs
8. Piston to rod assembly
9. Crank polish
10. Spec sizes for parts needed

$1300 labor

Additional $150 if head needs to be align bored

I didn't get a price for rotating assembly balance yet. Some say it's not necessary on inline 6 and 4 cylinders but I am not sure I agree. I am using new JE forged pistons and Carrillo Pro-SA rods so I would think it would be important to balance with the stock crank.

Thoughts?.....
 
That seems like a fair price given the amount of work they will be doing!

I would definitely balance the assembly. Depending on the rods and pistons you choose they could be considerably lighter than stock, like 1300g vs 1600g if I remember correctly.

Another thing that might be helpful is Ferrea gives a really great military discount, I think it was like 25 or 30% so if you were in the military make sure you let them know. Or have someone you know that is/was military buy for you. Saved me a couple hundred dollars.


I talked to Ferrea this morning and they said I do need to replace the stock locators with theirs if I using their springs and retainers but they also said you can use stock valves unless I plan to go oversized. With the turbo application it would make sense to invest in the +1mm turbo exhaust valves and +1mm intake valves.
I also talked to my local machine shop and got a quote for labor to do the following:

1.Complete head rebuild and deck the head
2.Complete Ferrea valve train install
3.Cut seats for +1mm valves
4.Hot tank and check block
5. Freeze plugs
6. Cylinders honed
7. Align bored due to ARP main studs
8. Piston to rod assembly
9. Crank polish
10. Spec sizes for parts needed

$1300 labor

Additional $150 if head needs to be align bored

I didn't get a price for rotating assembly balance yet. Some say it's not necessary on inline 6 and 4 cylinders but I am not sure I agree. I am using new JE forged pistons and Carrillo Pro-SA rods so I would think it would be important to balance with the stock crank.

Thoughts?.....
 
That seems like a fair price given the amount of work they will be doing!

I would definitely balance the assembly. Depending on the rods and pistons you choose they could be considerably lighter than stock, like 1300g vs 1600g if I remember correctly.

Another thing that might be helpful is Ferrea gives a really great military discount, I think it was like 25 or 30% so if you were in the military make sure you let them know. Or have someone you know that is/was military buy for you. Saved me a couple hundred dollars.
Hey that is a great idea I know a few military guys.... @JToobe ;)
 
And just to provide a little clarification, Ferrea has 2 sets of springs for the 1FZ, the standard and the beehive. You only need their retainers with the beehive since they are several (I think 3mm shorter) than the standard springs.
 
And just to provide a little clarification, Ferrea has 2 sets of springs for the 1FZ, the standard and the beehive. You only need their retainers with the beehive since they are several (I think 3mm shorter) than the standard springs.
Yeah the ones I am using are the standard dual spring setup.
 
HA! When I was trying to clarify I made it worse!!

There are no beehive springs from Ferrea, I meant to say dual spring.

You ONLY need their retainers, etc with their DUAL springs.

Yep 14 hours shifts will be the death of me. lol

Yeah the ones I am using are the standard dual spring setup.
 
I talked to Ferrea this morning and they said I do need to replace the stock locators with theirs if I using their springs and retainers but they also said you can use stock valves unless I plan to go oversized. With the turbo application it would make sense to invest in the +1mm turbo exhaust valves and +1mm intake valves.
I also talked to my local machine shop and got a quote for labor to do the following:

1.Complete head rebuild and deck the head
2.Complete Ferrea valve train install
3.Cut seats for +1mm valves
4.Hot tank and check block
5. Freeze plugs
6. Cylinders honed
7. Align bored due to ARP main studs
8. Piston to rod assembly
9. Crank polish
10. Spec sizes for parts needed

$1300 labor

Additional $150 if head needs to be align bored

I didn't get a price for rotating assembly balance yet. Some say it's not necessary on inline 6 and 4 cylinders but I am not sure I agree. I am using new JE forged pistons and Carrillo Pro-SA rods so I would think it would be important to balance with the stock crank.

Thoughts?.....
Have you thought about getting a head from a 105 series?
 
This is a big worm hole.... but if you want to go with a high quality standalone and don't mind dropping another ~$2k in addition to the cost of the head it is a nicer/newer design.

Pluses+
Better intake and exhaust ports
Better combustion chamber
No hole for distributor

Minuses-
Cost of getting the head
Cost of getting COP plugs
Rigging up crank and cam sensors
No hole for distributor

The other really big unknown is with the modified combustion chamber what would your compression actually be? I know the combustion chambers are larger, and that the piston displacement is less. The aftermarket pistons are designed after the 80 series, I have not yet seen accurate CC info for the 105 series head. Using a piston designed for an 80 series with a 105 series head would result in some unknown combustion ratio less than advertised.

Have you thought about getting a head from a 105 series?
 
Not that one would want to waste an opportunity for more efficiency, but since you are going turbo on this engine and "only" looking for 600 hp potential, maybe the possible improvement of the 105 head would be nearly negated by being able to simply crank up the boost a smidge? I like the 105 head concept too, but it seems it would really shine with a naturally aspirated application.
 
Yeah. If you remember when I talked to Head Games, who are some of the best Supra head builders in the US. They said they wouldn't touch the 1FZFE head if it was running under 1500hp.

Not that one would want to waste an opportunity for more efficiency, but since you are going turbo on this engine and "only" looking for 600 hp potential, maybe the possible improvement of the 105 head would be nearly negated by being able to simply crank up the boost a smidge? I like the 105 head concept too, but it seems it would really shine with a naturally aspirated application.
 

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