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Ha.. no problem man. I was in the air about what size I was going with, finally settled with the 33's. Glad I did, I like the gearing, it's much better.
FZJ80 + HJ61= ?? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter mcguirejohnson
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- 12ht coils frame swap locked
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Ha.. no problem man. I was in the air about what size I was going with, finally settled with the 33's. Glad I did, I like the gearing, it's much better.
POTATO LAUNCHER
TLCA #6928
60 is looking good man. Keep hammering away on it and we'll have to do a pre Summit run to Gilmer for the Jambo.
- Thread starter
- #103
Thanks Casey, and thanks for stopping by yesterday as well! If its ready I'm down, Jambo was scheduled right in the middle of finals last year, so we will see.
POTATO LAUNCHER
TLCA #6928
Finals Schminals, there will only be one Jamboree 11. Ha!
- Thread starter
- #105
Well, been chipping away slowly but surely on a few things.
Taking a break from making body mounts and shifting my focus to rebuilding the axles...
Anyone have a trick for getting an 80 series E-locker front diff out when there is no power to the locker to engage it? I think I read somewhere that you can take off the locker motor and manually engage it but I am unsure..
Taking a break from making body mounts and shifting my focus to rebuilding the axles...
Anyone have a trick for getting an 80 series E-locker front diff out when there is no power to the locker to engage it? I think I read somewhere that you can take off the locker motor and manually engage it but I am unsure..
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You can lock and unlock it if with two wires and a 12V source, I don't know which prongs on the connector they are though. My good friend with retrofitted
e-lockers in his 80 has get under his truck and do that because his ECU or something like that isn't wired right.
Vossie
#thecrazycruiserman
man this is a sick 60! making me want one so bad.
not too sure as im a 45 guy, is the 60 series body the same width as an 80?
ive come so close to pulling the trigger on putting an 80 series chassis under my 45, but i just dont think it will come out the way i want it to.
not too sure as im a 45 guy, is the 60 series body the same width as an 80?
ive come so close to pulling the trigger on putting an 80 series chassis under my 45, but i just dont think it will come out the way i want it to.
9v battery bro. I forget which pins on the e-locker motor, but with a 9v battery and a couple of short leads you can cycle (lock) the e-locker motor.
- Thread starter
- #109
Thanks guys, Johnny that's what I was looking for. A little 9V battery sounds more forgiving that a car battery.. I'll try and swing by the store today and I'll report back if I can get it to work.
Thanks man, it's getting there!
80s are a hair wider. If your worried about the tires sticking out too far, just compensate with deep backspaced rims (FJ cruiser steelies for 17s, tacoma steelies for 16s).
One of my future "dream" projects involves a 45 on an 80 frame, I just think that would be the cat's meow.
connect the GREEN and GREEN/RED pins to a 9-Volt battery and it'll operate. If nothing happens when you hit the two pins with the 9-Volts then switch the polarity. If nothing still happens, get a brand new 9-Volt battery and try again. We tried for quite some time to get it to work using a used 9-Volt battery that still had power (checked it by sticking my tongue on it) and the locker motor never moved. If a brand new 9-Volt still doesn't get the locking motor to go, try using the leads from a 12-Volt car battery (that's the voltage it runs on anyway) and remember to try switching the polarity. If still nothing happens, you need to visit Slee Off-Road'sTech Zone article onfixing a sticky diff lock actuator
Pulled from this page
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- #111
Thanks for that!
- Thread starter
- #112
Well I managed to trip the locker and yank the 3rd member out of the front.. thanks for the advice guys!
Other than that I used a roll of paper towels to clean all of the grease off of the knuckle balls and hub components. Also started tearing into the rear axle. Called it a night when I broke my 12mm bolt to pull the rear disk off. The drivers side rear was so worn down that the piston in the caliper was making contact with the rotor.. needless to say I need some new brakes on all 4 corners. Here are some pics:
Other than that I used a roll of paper towels to clean all of the grease off of the knuckle balls and hub components. Also started tearing into the rear axle. Called it a night when I broke my 12mm bolt to pull the rear disk off. The drivers side rear was so worn down that the piston in the caliper was making contact with the rotor.. needless to say I need some new brakes on all 4 corners. Here are some pics:
- Thread starter
- #113
Putting a little bit of lipstick on the knuckle components before I re assemble. Weapon of choice this time was rustoleum "professional" over self etching primer. I didn't put a top coat on the brake backing plates since I am going to be chopping them down to where it will just be a spacer which is how my 60 axle was setup and it looked cleaner. Plus you don't have to take off the wheel to get a good view of the brake pad thickness!
Should be rebuilding the front diff by next week, pretty exited/ nervous about attempting it for the first time... There are a few og master techs at work that know the way of the landcruiser and said they would help me out if I get stuck so I'm predicting a positive outcome!
Little video I made showing the elocker, I think it's pretty neat!
Should be rebuilding the front diff by next week, pretty exited/ nervous about attempting it for the first time... There are a few og master techs at work that know the way of the landcruiser and said they would help me out if I get stuck so I'm predicting a positive outcome!
Little video I made showing the elocker, I think it's pretty neat!
- Thread starter
- #114
Well I've been slacking with updates lately, but honestly I have been getting a little sidetracked.. Went to roundup in Mason this past weekend and I now feel like a have a new wave of motivation to get my rig back in action. It really sucked not having my cruiser out there, but now I am pumped to get it done before August. Still have to build the gas tank, rebuild front diff, rebuild front axle, exhaust, plumb fuel lines, brake lines, install lift, install blackbox & rebuild the t-case w/ the 4:1 gears. So quite a bit of stuff to do, but I will not be cruiser less this summer when it's time to explore Colorado...
@reevesci 's control arms.. These things are beefy!
60 series traffic jam
I remember reading the original thread of this rig, pretty cool to see it in person!
@reevesci 's control arms.. These things are beefy!
60 series traffic jam
I remember reading the original thread of this rig, pretty cool to see it in person!
brooksfj60
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #116
Bull bar is on, little bit of plasma cutting and welding and it fit like a glove on the 80 frame. I tried to get it as high and in as possible, it's a little better..
cwwfj60
Supporting Vendor
looking good man!
- Thread starter
- #118
Thanks Cody, it's getting there slowly but surely
- Thread starter
- #119
Painting the front axle and my new rims.
Other than the suspension, racor filter, front seats, sound system & bumpers this rig is going to be a Toyota Mut
Other than the suspension, racor filter, front seats, sound system & bumpers this rig is going to be a Toyota Mut
- Thread starter
- #120
What do y'all think of the sequoia rims?
