Is anyone else having issues with a leak at the rear where the 90 is used to delete the LSPV? I can't get mine to stop leaking.
Yet another LSPV/ABS delete how to... (4 Viewers)
- Thread starter JeepinPete
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2fpower
SILVER Star
Had tons of issues after delete... hope this thread helps...
forum.ih8mud.com
HELP Brake pedal goes to floor slowly
Any thoughts are appreciated. No stone left unturned. I just got UPS notification that master #4 is at my door.
forum.ih8mud.com
I had the same problem so I ordered a straight brass union and bent the lines to mate up. Problem solved.
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
I am preparing to do this mod, how much time did it take or how much time should I allocate? I have one day I can spare on this and don't need to be left holding the bag...
One day is plenty of time. If there are no issues, I could see #6 coming on very quickly. Spray PB Blaster on the bolts a few days before and have at it. Good luck and happy wrenching.
Going to tackle this soon. Thanks for the write up.
Ended up doing this same thing. No issues since. Great pedal feel and stopping power now!
alia176
SILVER Star
Umm pics?
I dont have a pic, but this is the part i used..
BRAKE LINE UNION 3/16" INVERTED 10MM X 1.0 ( 4 UNION FITTINGS ) FREE SHIPPING | eBay
10mm x 1.0 thread invert. 4 PC.S HD UNION.
www.ebay.com
alia176
SILVER Star
thank you.
alia176
SILVER Star
Forgive this newbie question but how did a new union fix this issue? Did the old union (or the re-use of the OEM part) leak, contributing to the poor pedal feel?
Yes. I couldn't get the original 90 to quit leaking.
My LSPV started leaking pretty badly a few weeks ago. I've always had trouble getting air out of the system, presumably because of the ABS, so I decided to finally go ahead and do this. I did a modified version from everyone else's posts. I drew a real quick schematic, not sure if it will help anyone down the line.
Doing it this way does require spending extra money. I bought some brake line and a bag of fittings (about 30 bucks), a bending tool, a simple flaring tool, and some unions. I left the T below the Master Cylinder and used it to distribute pressure to my front left and right brakes. I also routed lines into the cabin and mounted the manual proportioning valve there. I put some bends in the lines to try and mimic the Toyota coils (not sure if they are intended to dissipate heat, shock, or both, but I figured it couldn't hurt).
Doing it this way does require spending extra money. I bought some brake line and a bag of fittings (about 30 bucks), a bending tool, a simple flaring tool, and some unions. I left the T below the Master Cylinder and used it to distribute pressure to my front left and right brakes. I also routed lines into the cabin and mounted the manual proportioning valve there. I put some bends in the lines to try and mimic the Toyota coils (not sure if they are intended to dissipate heat, shock, or both, but I figured it couldn't hurt).
In place of the LSPV I simply put a single union in. You can see in the photo I bent a new (identical) line...that's mostly because I accidentally ****ed up the original. Oops. In any case, I plan to use the LSPV mounting space for my Fox Reservoirs soon since I've got a little rubbing in their existing location.
While I was doing it, I replaced the pads with my second set of Porterfield Carbon-Kevlar Racing Pads (100 series up front). Front: R4-S AP772, Rear: R4-S AP606. I also went through several bottles of Motul RBF 600 Dot 4 fluid. And I replaced the bleeder screws (calipers are only 3 years old, but the rear screws were done for) with the only thing NAPA had in stock -- $15 dollar check-valve nipples. They work just fine, but you have to be pretty careful about not turning it too far. I've seen elsewhere on here people have had some issues with it. I don't think they seat exactly the same as stock, so if you turn it too far it seems like you let air in past the threads. Hard to say for certain since I was battling a cross-threaded T junction when I noticed this.
Overall, I'm really happy with it. Stopping power has definitely increased and I can lock up the wheels now (FJ Cruiser 17 in steels with Cooper Discovered ST/Max 35s). I'm running a pretty heavy tire/wheel combo on account of all the time I spend offroad in Mexico, so if I can lock them up, anybody can! Can't speak toward larger tires though...you're on your own with that! In any case, it's a good upgrade. It's not a miracle cure, but it's definitely an improvement.
Hope this post helps anyone thinking about doing this! Thanks to everyone before me for sorting out the hard stuff ahead of time!
While I was doing it, I replaced the pads with my second set of Porterfield Carbon-Kevlar Racing Pads (100 series up front). Front: R4-S AP772, Rear: R4-S AP606. I also went through several bottles of Motul RBF 600 Dot 4 fluid. And I replaced the bleeder screws (calipers are only 3 years old, but the rear screws were done for) with the only thing NAPA had in stock -- $15 dollar check-valve nipples. They work just fine, but you have to be pretty careful about not turning it too far. I've seen elsewhere on here people have had some issues with it. I don't think they seat exactly the same as stock, so if you turn it too far it seems like you let air in past the threads. Hard to say for certain since I was battling a cross-threaded T junction when I noticed this.
Overall, I'm really happy with it. Stopping power has definitely increased and I can lock up the wheels now (FJ Cruiser 17 in steels with Cooper Discovered ST/Max 35s). I'm running a pretty heavy tire/wheel combo on account of all the time I spend offroad in Mexico, so if I can lock them up, anybody can! Can't speak toward larger tires though...you're on your own with that! In any case, it's a good upgrade. It's not a miracle cure, but it's definitely an improvement.
Hope this post helps anyone thinking about doing this! Thanks to everyone before me for sorting out the hard stuff ahead of time!
Knocked mine out today. Brakes are way better, i can get 37’s to howl a lil, but not “lock them up”. 70-0 was amazing for 37’s, armor and gear. After nearly killing a guy in a subaru(6’ from his bumper) , i can now say it feels great to stop better than most stock vehicles.
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Quick question. Are ya'll using the original (With ABS) master cylinder? For the 1993 they offer a "with" and "without" ABS master cylinder and I want to know if I need to go buy a master cylinder that is made for without ABS.
I’m using an abs master
Like OMG you're the best!
All: I have just finished my LSPV and ABS delete. I used the following items from Amazon:
Proportional Valve: Amazon product ASIN B002G37IEA
Fittings to insert into the Proportional Valve: Amazon product ASIN B015YGQZUS
Union to replace the LSPV: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN2W68Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I left the bracket for the ABS in the vehicle and I mounted the proportional valve to it by drilling a hole and using on of the existing holes.
The union I secured to the frame with two zip ties and the bolts that were supporting the LSPV. I smooshed the zip ties to the frame to help hold it out of the way.
Proportional Valve: Amazon product ASIN B002G37IEA
Fittings to insert into the Proportional Valve: Amazon product ASIN B015YGQZUS
Union to replace the LSPV: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BN2W68Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I left the bracket for the ABS in the vehicle and I mounted the proportional valve to it by drilling a hole and using on of the existing holes.
The union I secured to the frame with two zip ties and the bolts that were supporting the LSPV. I smooshed the zip ties to the frame to help hold it out of the way.
lumbee1
Native American
A few years ago, I removed my LSPV, installed a union, and removed the sense line. Instant braking improvement.
A little more than a year ago (or two) I had to replace my front calipers and got some air in my ABS pump. I bled the unit as good as I could but the pedal was soft and the brakes pulled to the left.
In Nov, I committed to removing the ABS pump completely and installing a manual proportioning valve. The valve was $40 and the brake line straightener was $40. Factory lines were reused to connect the proportioning valve. Afterwards, braking is consistent and strong. However before I adjusted the proportioning valve, the rear would lock up first and the truck would start rotating. I marked the top of the proportioning valve with paint and rotated the dial two full turns for less rear brake. Braking is better but I haven't had a chance to test emergency stopping again.
I really love the simplified system. Disabling the ABS light is the final step.
A little more than a year ago (or two) I had to replace my front calipers and got some air in my ABS pump. I bled the unit as good as I could but the pedal was soft and the brakes pulled to the left.
In Nov, I committed to removing the ABS pump completely and installing a manual proportioning valve. The valve was $40 and the brake line straightener was $40. Factory lines were reused to connect the proportioning valve. Afterwards, braking is consistent and strong. However before I adjusted the proportioning valve, the rear would lock up first and the truck would start rotating. I marked the top of the proportioning valve with paint and rotated the dial two full turns for less rear brake. Braking is better but I haven't had a chance to test emergency stopping again.
I really love the simplified system. Disabling the ABS light is the final step.
