The best tee to use is that one that's on your truck right now
EDIT: fitting, not "tee" for LSPV delete.
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Yet another LSPV/ABS delete how to... (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter JeepinPete
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The best tee to use is that one that's on your truck right now
EDIT: fitting, not "tee" for LSPV delete.
The best tee to use is that one that's on your truck right now
I know but I'm keeping the ABS for now so I won't have the extra T that you get when the ABS is removed.
*edit*
So looking at the pictures again I take a fitting from the drivers front area and that becomes the bypass fitting for the LSPV?
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You will still have an extra fitting. Have you seen my thread? I first started by deleting the LSPV. Then a few months later (on page 2) I deleted ABS. You only need the tee when removing ABS.
Write-up: Toss the LSPV and install a manual proportioning valve
That is correct. The tee your remove from underneath the master cylinder is only used when you delete ABS. Keep it safe for a rainy day.
Ok, so the one on the frame of the driver side is only for the LSPV and I won't end up with an open line to the master or ABS if I remove it to use it for deleting the LSPV?
Correct. My thread is a bit more complicated because I added a manual proportioning valve.
Absolutely awesome write-up budday! Helped me HUGE
- Thread starter
- #48
Wanted to give an update. After I pulled the ABS and LSPV, things were hunky dorry. Towards the end of last summer, I needed to replace the rear pads. I was heading out for a two week road trip towing a camper, 12k lbs GCVW. So I decided to replace the front pads too while I was at it. Installed Hawk LTS pads front and rear. Did not turn or replace rotors.
Love the Hawk pads. Much more bite than the who knows what rear pads and the Akebono front pads I had previously installed. The extra braking was definitely noticeable towing the camper.
Anyway, the increase bite has had a negative effect. The extra bite is now enough to lock up the rears before the fronts. For now I am just dealing with it, as it is only apparent on heavy braking, and I know it is going to happen. I may add a manual PV, or I may install a less aggressive rear pad.
Love the Hawk pads. Much more bite than the who knows what rear pads and the Akebono front pads I had previously installed. The extra braking was definitely noticeable towing the camper.
Anyway, the increase bite has had a negative effect. The extra bite is now enough to lock up the rears before the fronts. For now I am just dealing with it, as it is only apparent on heavy braking, and I know it is going to happen. I may add a manual PV, or I may install a less aggressive rear pad.
Rivman1243
SILVER Star
I like the feed back
alia176
SILVER Star
Great feedback, wonder if you had a rear bumper+swingout+cargo full of crap, would the rear still lock up?
- Thread starter
- #51
Probably not. A couple hundred pounds of tongue weight from a trailer will cause the fronts to lock first. Its a good point though, as all of those are on the list for the future.
2fpower
SILVER Star
Thought I might add this....
I thought that I was being smart, getting a 10mm thread brake proportioning valve for my ABS delete, so I would not have to reflare the ends.....
Well, not so fast. They needed a longer threaded end to fit and bubble flare, so I ended up having to redo both lines going to this unit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011B4UX5U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Per manufacturer, "This valve uses 10mm X 1.0 fittings with a bubble flare, not an inverted flare."
I thought that I was being smart, getting a 10mm thread brake proportioning valve for my ABS delete, so I would not have to reflare the ends.....
Well, not so fast. They needed a longer threaded end to fit and bubble flare, so I ended up having to redo both lines going to this unit.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011B4UX5U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Per manufacturer, "This valve uses 10mm X 1.0 fittings with a bubble flare, not an inverted flare."
alia176
SILVER Star
Good info 2f. I'm thinking about doing this mod and I *should* be able to just re-purpose the items that get pulled out, right?
2fpower
SILVER Star
I am a little confused what you are asking. I added a proportioning valve up by the master so I can adjust the power/fluid to the rear brakes. To do this, on @Robkc rig, lexi, we added the standard valve that is setup for US These have a 1/8-27 NPT but include adapters to go to 3/16-24 Female. 3/16 line is the same size as our metric line with m6 x1.0 ends, so I had to reflare the lines to the 3/16 24 thread.
This is made somewhat difficult as we use a eastwood brake line end, thanks to @tornadoalleycruiser and it needs to be mounted in a vise to work well. I use a 4' long pipe wrench to hold it in place while doing this on the car, and have another person there to help.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HOXH242/ref=sspa_dk_detail_4?psc=1
Here is the standard valve.
https://www.amazon.com/Wilwood-260-...509640046&sr=1-1&keywords=proportioning+valve
Anyay, I thought we would be able to use the metric proportioning valve and not have to reflare, but not the case.
alia176
SILVER Star
My bad, let me clarify. If I don't plan on using any aftermarket products such as a prop valve/etc, I should be able to re-use the existing parts for a complete LSPV & ABS delete project, right?
2fpower
SILVER Star
yep.
RFB
97 FZJ80 LIFTED SC DUAL BATTERIES,37s
At this point you will have three "extra" lines:
I chose to reuse the U shaped line to connect the tee to the master cylinder. The two remaining lines that go to each front wheel need some reshaping. The brake line is soft and easily bent. The right front line took very little tweaking. The left front line required a 90* bend to get it in the proper direction to mate to the tee. All in all it came out pretty clean:
One of the bolts that held the ABS unit in place also holds a support bracket for the charcoal canister. Remember the grey box shown earlier? I sandwiched its mounting bracket between the canister bracket and the inner fender:
At this point we are done in the engine bay. Time to move into the right front wheel well. Pull back the rear splash guard and you will see this:
This is the elbow you will need to bypass the LSPV. One bolt in the frame, two brake line connections. You only need to remove the horizontal line at this point. The vertical line will come out with the elbow. You can then disconnect it at the bench.
Moving back to the LSPV. Climb on under and this is what you are going to see:
Note there are three lines there. The lower line on the left of this picture is no longer used. The elbow will tie the upper left line to the rear line like so:
I haven't removed the LSPV yet. Broke one mounting bolt in the frame. It just so happens that you can reuse the bracket on the elbow if you add a short piece of pipe as a spacer, and a longer bolt. The bolt I broke, unfortunately for me, is the hole you would need to use.
That's it! Bleed the brakes, check for leaks. Enjoy you much more effective brakes.[/QUOTE]
Perfect timing I just started badgering people on IG to run me through the steps again, and to anyone that would ask why?? Because 35 36 37 and up wont even come close to stopping without the delete. JMO
I chose to reuse the U shaped line to connect the tee to the master cylinder. The two remaining lines that go to each front wheel need some reshaping. The brake line is soft and easily bent. The right front line took very little tweaking. The left front line required a 90* bend to get it in the proper direction to mate to the tee. All in all it came out pretty clean:
One of the bolts that held the ABS unit in place also holds a support bracket for the charcoal canister. Remember the grey box shown earlier? I sandwiched its mounting bracket between the canister bracket and the inner fender:
At this point we are done in the engine bay. Time to move into the right front wheel well. Pull back the rear splash guard and you will see this:
This is the elbow you will need to bypass the LSPV. One bolt in the frame, two brake line connections. You only need to remove the horizontal line at this point. The vertical line will come out with the elbow. You can then disconnect it at the bench.
Moving back to the LSPV. Climb on under and this is what you are going to see:
Note there are three lines there. The lower line on the left of this picture is no longer used. The elbow will tie the upper left line to the rear line like so:
I haven't removed the LSPV yet. Broke one mounting bolt in the frame. It just so happens that you can reuse the bracket on the elbow if you add a short piece of pipe as a spacer, and a longer bolt. The bolt I broke, unfortunately for me, is the hole you would need to use.
That's it! Bleed the brakes, check for leaks. Enjoy you much more effective brakes.[/QUOTE]
Perfect timing I just started badgering people on IG to run me through the steps again, and to anyone that would ask why?? Because 35 36 37 and up wont even come close to stopping without the delete. JMO
I am doing this, thanks for the step byThe best tee to use is that one that's on your truck right now
EDIT: fitting, not "tee" for LSPV delete.
Anyone have trouble keeping the vehicle running after this modifacation? My fj starts up but does not idle and the check engine light stays on.
How many of you have added a manual proportioning valve to this mod? I'm on 37's w/ plans to go 39's.......
I've deleted the LSPV from every 4Runer and mini truck I've owned and never installed one, just wasn't sure how important it might be for 4 wheel disk brakes.
I've deleted the LSPV from every 4Runer and mini truck I've owned and never installed one, just wasn't sure how important it might be for 4 wheel disk brakes.
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
The LSPV is an important bit of kit, more so depending on your individual use. Emergency or heavy braking empty versus fully loaded, the problem comes from finding a one size fits all valve. Disc brakes are more efficient than drums so makes the valve arguably more important.
Regards
Dave
