Yet another LSPV/ABS delete how to...

Joined
Nov 20, 2013
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Location
PA
I finally had some time to get to this today. Figured I would take some pictures and do a write up. There is plenty of info here, but it is a bit scattered. This will go from the start to the end. Is it worth it? Absolutely! For all those that complain about the brakes, we have plenty of rotor and caliper. I can now lock up the 37's on a dry road without a lot of pedal effort.

No additional parts are needed. Everything you need is already on the truck.

Let's get started. First picture is how it will look when you open the hood:

tU3VbxRsQArKw3QWL8tNaQGSy-I5mXQztK-VFQuta6MDKogpDWdIFIJlh38-WCUB6aMsLLLDdf_H8Dhv3T1EbyX6rCK5_wjI7WsywQSdm3nWQ0yhOQyoRuIDTbtinsgDAsMhMHFAyoCX0pqjEU2Coq1dG6OCvW1-NqVIRyt6_9AZe-u1xo3OkO38JDiYGZ3czeGqYc2cpuViqUIEMsA2z8xOoIUxgufo01GvfB07DJsaZrXeZeE1g8EgBN2djpUKgQziaJjEZTg9d3jR2x9lv8nRtzKT9zp4nFi1Y8xaWQxzhgBFeXM_-OJhSMH80jLJq3ZktvCDJ6RAon5egxSJufrACdkFtzFEXrVX3vPUlUDHqyaIkGS3Rsuhjmmi5zpGJDv8f9RjKpWa1XsRVRfH3Vbj2_3vaqXcgxnhPiynAusDq6RSGdkIyEct9w6DLptRedPOrVhcaCkbAkm79SOIvWYUiSQ-LgI8TlCAQNW5tnlTri4PuQElBmrUpCgtZ9vfKSyHw_7doxvbxE-tdaxCzvMLQpNfX0sr340NY-YFW1qHEjWv22Z35EUAj6-PDBXKs_1Fst-6-AAWjYeNYLEYGL0IpsR2IQQl=w725-h965-no


Step one is remove the front line from the master cylinder to the ABS unit. This line is for your rear brakes. Notice the open port in the ABS unit in the picture below.

Then undo the front line from the ABS unit:

cy9M6OlCBnrNVpe9be9QGaN9vyyxzgozxnnGoOu2G6QmPPQOuagMw3zvAZYjPFmFYNVlKhf15bcYH6BZfdAPbLFt23iuTuLkYqk1Wj7dYM_pso2AWVXwT3UUORgerX8GjEC4TC8ldzwSwM-Ct4AsA3-fbVTD9lHtfGo-p2784_T9Cvly0ak73js7_omdwtcnVXSHWtx8hXKfdfvfRDkLW8f-51CNphA6da60l2vp_N_AYzIggypX6fTHcYaHJRJ0Zuz-L3L98JK6Imu7lUXBDq0EJ6DRo3_yp1RZF17QAY3MgjCYFu46WSXaa-38g1UYf5e3tf--TRmvx1Coa4bp4hpVzG2sT3nKA3LtWtXJy8mYduRTwd9RCZoTdeTM2gPLp4mIeJSITsQA-qEByvdM4aLPX-y4Bz8d1H5geSU6PJsl4_NT0uPEhtW0VpX_bnaPynZhnqgIlP7K2p6hHKigl3pqKmLRIVrNggk3xvm1oieYKUB1WmVOBIFEiPuSOKgjygSHh0mA_Yuo4jb8ac7xqmX0a8Sn8Vm1SwMFSSn9wGyd-cH5P2LQQIhXSykE7sWkADZYQ3OZ9F6StE_0UDV7trpC4WRO2rg9=w1287-h965-no


Also note that every line is labeled on the ABS unit itself. The top two line are from the master cylinder, the bottom three go out to the wheels.

The next step is to bend the rear brake line. It needs a simple 180* bend. Then it will screw right into the master cylinder:

aDK1TopHVxXp5hS4fhPZo0tvvYFbf-Z7wjdSnpaFHQ6jQ2kQDpADeFruOEB3Xhk_3wmJYVXr94ly5HEyR4bXyFwQZIexwRhqguqYk9SM43d8fP-0YMSay5Z_Fy7LBuD4jld7v1RpXNMLE52pK8PQX7te4fczOsXzssasPc5U2DeRv25SrWspCy9cJH4MENjqdzA-4Oc8LBEMMO2EPpOvdP7SMJiFBeItM-_fQATUPxSzqWi189Xq52rXS2QlOaBw4yGr8goBL7H8wvdfky5h0covGA8T5hFJjWbZQKf3YnfuBMk_erNSwDxUMX1nQpK8y6guszeEhB00HJ5b7Uz7fnNKDbmJEDu42Jxmn_mpn-SN42-AV0KFzlLvaBc1VX_nox2CwqY6q-c8TYpgT-GNqedaXlJBG1Kg_1YqWHQzWpGci7FGXIyI-4cQd4nOVkrvR1HPH1JWsFZaSEGFb8hF69wx70TdYJ_PXGQACCnDHe23MOnZy5L5QTQyOWXws5Hx7QkiS32iRWx9y8iI8e7T7F-5W9jjrizNGLNor1nGHy8ck8KTFSiKezdHuA2u4f3aTmpgYqtQISR4FBvjj_4J2psudn1a8TD_=w725-h965-no


Next we will remove the ABS unit. Remove the three remaining brake lines. Then unbolt the this ??? from the ABS bracket:

fRIi2VOKfNYQ4QzF_ptonjQrRTyMwKjIC6viCJohAdeuikjCEoi8kciRtZkC5KUwbwt0M_V72dmVAAGsZl-zZU435sivJA0dIAmi0EJjzMkuAAZ0YIO2I-UEklKHitIuHzVh42S8RjFPufjRZp3JYgTiki_GG3XTwrYuDm2SMe7U5bdeeeg-uQfJHmgBn_quv5g3S2YsQ6FYmmVTXdJiL5fx6DRFeIqgLyNyT-mkRVuX15kow11dJKhONDc4CYJDURq0Q5A_rkdMSEmGoR_ZEUAs5rliQdGxx1JoHFUw4OTFFrnMGuvKgd3HI39yjpvOhjvd3U4MYlx5--G5OUxKgEhh1BHNGt8E5U1NUAPfKTrsffNdFBWZl6PRTjrCd7SYdJDc6_coirwRHi7tY18v4ixmKOHXjNbAN9UcSGw7BX8E0r2caMvEZEJ_LqxYsd8tJEz4mSKGtQTza6BZbmyK3InhEoJ8DwBwWnmEpJ7A048VgGWE05QxUnjKcU2SQQVP2iP5VMbS_I1NIetmCRL09RU6lrgqzxy744MzTavhWbpK4iVamwdnMGkMApqFCEKsTZaQksFf7Tjr26c1ARTmNhZmvMMygs_x=w1287-h965-no


There are four bolts holding the ABS unit to the truck. Two tucked up under the flange of the fender, two on the inner fender. There is another black box bolted to the ABS unit which you can see hanging in the picture below. I could not disconnect the ABS wires easily, so I removed the two screws than hold a bracket that the plugs mount to. Once that was done, it was easy to disconnect the plugs.

IgnODIxcfgWz-o92_UmJD4wHEIfM48rb_rcPMysq7bUrANBKNUT6TEiPPG2VzpC6IIkFDWsimwvVWBCsbGIwZ3B7XZ1ipGwhkCcMhlHguUL7OB4xMQMmI6D1JIf8SokKSku2nKPtqwUCaEXVtlr2xtXtf_1Sjf-yPBG_LTKF7fqBm1Kk9pRlqXD9O8FODWauwyqGIyREp3Qdfp6C4bf79r-x1OsPEfeoql9w3zfSIILJnK_c4Bj9pnqDQ0GN-70dD-zS-g820KFvCmIeuCsQNm-B9vD3vJlo34EvXbCQeTmtO-Mhe6xgLMMR0Nnu2HgQdE4ET9T_ZhUU_RiXnJD1SzwSnvg5sVqudRbOQF_1agBKVZyEX_baN8jC37NgiWS8WCwFzbZpK9SFae6YRqvvhDkYu9m-Nq4ihCsgOp2uvt_osTIUkboKcI4N0NH_S14ExJ_G6mYenuxV-LjP2yyhYbzoEyG0s7E9X_JGDsvRHPEu-LTFPsrUSl6_W8iD3Y8bz7rtptKbTqXwsqVtPvKSAeHtsaM07rYK7UqLRw8pxsLALVNjNfCdiQdJEiOGOsCZuACC8pJhtmssHR3Ymzu0N5IOWiV3DOrV=w1287-h965-no


Next step is to extract the tee under the master cylinder. There is a short U shaped line going from the master cylinder to the tee, a second line going from the tee to the ABS unit, and a third line which went to the LSPV. The tee is held to the brake booster / master cylinder by the two lower master cylinder bolts. You only need to disconnect the U shaped line at the master cylinder and the line going to the LSPV. The other two connections can be disassembled outside of the truck. This is what you will end up with:

zxvyNxKgK6VPZFPZJNv8d0WVeyWyl-MtaTemdSYGQMRMXLGOttCwu0P4Wn7QDTWKJFHI6x79TaxhpHIsHu7b74CD61EjXq3Zn0EfvMz6UwSitW1lmEbX0KVeLw_MCecftzX__E60psnYEj2w9oR3nRSjU4HaahSMIXZ2HccEL6u21ZMBfAy753Uixvv3N__4cmwxdUWmXn3tLv_kmrC2My9FnevfCil4-4wgbGHcGQa_cPiUMxnUuhhAVMElLhmLcYw9lC-TDCNVFTIeLwnQMt9BB0iHf-WcKcPCqYrTN3EQGrOtXRalY7T9g9C6Xk69GM8hzDYxdRLOj_KjhdTdAZ37LEO7tNdzQeMYkNGMnaBSwrDos2NTcJ2jAFIAhR5oPAtTLc8ZfUHFMivzGgTG5HQe2_7m2XgEyM3ozx3v-Mu2LwZk8G5TmCdWfrqDnkudXBIr4myUf_fJ7JhwXoU6d8CyC5lwtnB8aggXYiwqmdJfU8GaDgtqEN_MyXoDECIQdWF8amDIY-sSZC8po8SCvKtguhUGm5J28M36d9tFeqqJjvdusUkzU3eHFYI-kKRARyBr318T8J7hXNUZqjgPlygGlQY_y7cN=w1287-h965-no


I used a hacksaw to cut the welds that attach the tee to the bracket. Took two minutes:

pfEiqxfiNxkcpRqE05IqPqNbDsActIHhrIOX7huH9YSfUZm-PW-8Yy3b1niwAi2AVVlZDww1hWlMbEM51AE6vvo__mXAImk3T7cQXyq4ai60Ky1s9bQFH5P3GAReeUfNXB-w6KfERQF-Rsx3OA-LMdx6va24QWnLh_0LpsqczBc9PFLwY52B__3P4srHtqV6kPDBqU9LNZq61Q0-MyEIBdM8Yo4GjaY1qc5KZltKA0sDtRaqvY5Ti1BLSM1CSS64cARpXJf3Ntxys0BB7HW2rmjjaIJL3F9axwqmef0xwwkEtD9phiG-SM5PoW2_Lgl7fosds5bJgCfxDek9aQgUJiQgmcvAVpeDw_7oQbpIPOX2WAQXhwQoXH0kd5OPRBJzrO19Xh4xKOMFye1Ydob_up8sXv60Xec8MFvaef_JoYOt34FUVS2l3RYva2rKg3a8fzAexgTwQIcDSc74HLxPl1hH-_1p3h0XNpqMHYlcQX9xhJALVNV8-tfv1Vk4TjZz9QKmx0lBz8lBaNWSxpneJjA095S0bYAZq5fgDJaFUggConFQLxfWu46asgUp4MNyEZZ86lJ1yxNZ59ER6AXI2cHUspCCnPgS=w1287-h965-no


At this point you will have three "extra" lines:

lkDnGZTQgz7fvHBRXhWzzaRiMk4zhDcYWygrbeSObqG63qgrxKqOXls_jITpVdsZWMRZZxXP0LZ_5A6pmLsDFhRZuLeKZ8cSkxM-_SxLSHHRWDQCEFyhM1V0GY52nBeOOMYEzvM7A3JfpRuW9j_sIBAnFkv2MKXmHibCSTi9jsoqmcgM-qwWL2MD__drC_n9CIQ0hZ3ZvGHIHQtLJXK863KQw4xFM_x_70Ygg_Gi9o08ipoJcHcuP2c-QU-bYqMLFqIkwyMeN3Qwijt7JfJcO_oF70RtKtoxdClprLrOADMLzvEmsFH4cvJIjVA5JKRHeuIaYmIQoJQzqscBWMpyd5m6QIOIYuSycMU0_z1DbhwnyxGUxC6j5V6ZheHBEqyw_rUF9tufrWPMXiw1fZYDUo0hWrFPX5dTs1kek64k4_dxe_MfP7zF49fOObcXwO1_F7tuAjyIsIOx-nyFLHTMR13F91aTgSyixIuUdIP0rfLTjPXPNZpEP8FgiTu9hwUyEVqQQhRXbhS2XO0fzIWvHqDwMNMRMVm2JiSXOR8unGlD3fS5StTnT0sQAZfdio47v3BceiLIPYRJLfH2r5mvOSvi99WPlzQn=w725-h965-no


I chose to reuse the U shaped line to connect the tee to the master cylinder. The two remaining lines that go to each front wheel need some reshaping. The brake line is soft and easily bent. The right front line took very little tweaking. The left front line required a 90* bend to get it in the proper direction to mate to the tee. All in all it came out pretty clean:

oH6uPk6No5ijBJTBk8eI7FZjn13LWmo67vHoCcDHlhIB5i1puPyBXXrCz_SpOlcMZUN1T4TnmfYO5MsUjAaCSeG0RgNH60YKlfiY0kPBdsTYs9aG2SI5HbYZGemf2LSFsOfYOe9lSY7Edc10ftOLjkHU1q0zJypnkuC0nht-bzqCMizBv4AAKnRaT96h-tV8dIFTBdz3O_5ZO39TxFclPdUS5kTv1yWbX-rEQrt9XIJkftQAg3ymtBoHz2Ka-WUajRJzx69QB97t6OWp8YSnUi50L42x1Dz0CI_jkZ_PPS_JgcB7aiK_KHkgDioHIQEkrVdrUHdO-BwdwzEV3lAHIxP7248gCAYulr-7JobGOsjdl8f4sojer5O5zQUvGPAEvQcdNvXlideoGdLDg99z7LjDnAZby98WkTS3fh_7Wbre3HwJb31qjTDo2N2WnNdCznVi8ff8rh773pfW-91D0hNAefo-4FOyqlgF6EanPXHpbbDo1V9szG8_81l0Xcu48AYIX4DOZAIGUks4QfsjkzG22AhpkrdzlxnKE_zkYVqnBU7NV4rm2se3b0A-vq7KrlnY80aAUWmIJE6fdnfN6o6ILlFF2bvw=w1287-h965-no


SBfZmSxSwZeeNk1vYx8dKAfoRHPM8x95ShJLXz9cYycyupFR9BzMfZfxqpOXwcJbyHkpsnnt-0YnVsVIiZVyJG4A2mDDYXo54D3cDwYEbuXqf5Ve23qF0eGGZjJb3eBnavD5Uin-1DJBL38G6Eq-6DFQ24YRq8R6-_OIFtsEt6xkgZDAUhgvMnBm5MqNcy6c7cNI7MnocQgKmTVo0_Q-SQlouz48cmsUw-zAD-x3mXtI2clAwqVrPDI7ru4CYESVJ3Y8g5eUrvAAdosTFiHtPTQ1tFvTF95mh-iH2wI6Lds0-ssSI_-EZeMsQf1JA5-QnEprd5oMm78QQrRUZlgQz3PP_wPXUSZZxxIwhxdiNKWvTzAhtdK0QfAUMQkIhhQM-yIwWaLjiBZmFIKYqWI3M2Ht0ONPXBUZZPmVV0uKoc1mVB_vXsEOAgFwZa59cDZHFwz1HxNG4Yqd8TtyIywSdKOwY8Btz7vnKstqhBZoaKQHy4BeQNMs03iwUfZDmT67ROKePX3_4Kx-JwzS2SscnhREJs_l0BNuV4aPsGmxkq8eM3ZHPjeqKCpIR0Z6-aouK_Hyv0lzdbjkuUH0lcS655O1vJ7NWAJA=w725-h965-no


One of the bolts that held the ABS unit in place also holds a support bracket for the charcoal canister. Remember the grey box shown earlier? I sandwiched its mounting bracket between the canister bracket and the inner fender:

SaynQnpUVhenx73J1shdMnY8VbuX7P2xozp2_wH-h7xfezndDC-yozIDMGCJyTwZnaNAbEudmdLP8x_Buy3yFobdO4X52yLBSSGY4jEIGOjbXPxILG2QO5N_UktFldqrab-D43LBoH-0h22ji-WUy78s3dLDz-FQFGM8wuMHCjKj058TCdBKhlbrvosKUlmyRioMFpSYLCyaWcfxxTymrwK9ViS2DiFbXVQ174F23yBUNrnhifHrGY822CmKqIOu7ak74xI87k7SNExMHbaZsAmCwlA784KqO-BkGmLlY_Xt9SukaQysVHGCWTxeR_mg4W5cxVEDBZ5OiIK1hJRxgJsT6yziUvqqmbsdg62Oj8O_r09IxoMfLVOJH4hkKFmzhHmP1idNWkNUgHhXEf3X_hbwyao6hMxety4TueAGGtMMdESYVWXQPht7gvo94aqfM_KluAq5wyqoxri6pf069yA7Jv1g1IDh2jLIWtFNFfDn3nEz9xFWOaG9j3hS1YbWDBX-2YUbiWPnBpOow4hqx3UQpvmggrJiPmDPkBII_ADcm4iDUS1lMq_QuK6Yn5cowAczEG9lVT2NfxN_m6BB6JMAU6DgrmHK=w725-h965-no


At this point we are done in the engine bay. Time to move into the right front wheel well. Pull back the rear splash guard and you will see this:

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This is the elbow you will need to bypass the LSPV. One bolt in the frame, two brake line connections. You only need to remove the horizontal line at this point. The vertical line will come out with the elbow. You can then disconnect it at the bench.

Moving back to the LSPV. Climb on under and this is what you are going to see:

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Note there are three lines there. The lower line on the left of this picture is no longer used. The elbow will tie the upper left line to the rear line like so:

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I haven't removed the LSPV yet. Broke one mounting bolt in the frame. It just so happens that you can reuse the bracket on the elbow if you add a short piece of pipe as a spacer, and a longer bolt. The bolt I broke, unfortunately for me, is the hole you would need to use.

That's it! Bleed the brakes, check for leaks. Enjoy you much more effective brakes.
 
Joined
Dec 27, 2011
Messages
105
Location
AZ
I'm not sure I understand why you would disable a functioning ABS system. It only engages when the wheels start to lock, so it's not as if you're accessing greater braking potential. If you lock the wheels up on the road, you're going to generate less friction (due to the kinetic coefficient of friction being in play instead of static,) _and_ you'll lose control authority.

There could be a some extra braking potential provided by threshold braking if you can react faster than the computer, but it's a very big task to account for everything that affects braking in an emergency, and not something I could reasonably expect of any driver.

On a slightly different topic.. Having more rotor and caliper is more about heat dissipation. More material means less heat per amount of material, so it takes longer to heat soak and you get some insurance against brake fade.

I don't mean to detract from your work! This is a great guide for those who need to bypass a malfunctioning system or don't want it on a built rig.
 
Last edited:
Joined
Aug 12, 2011
Messages
4,886
Location
Sacramento, CA
I'm not sure I understand why you would disable a functioning ABS system. It only engages when the wheels start to lock, so it's not as if you're accessing greater braking potential. If you lock the wheels up on the road, you're going to generate less friction (due to the kinetic coefficient of friction being in play instead of static,) _and_ you'll lose control authority.

There could be a some extra braking potential provided by threshold braking if you can react faster than the computer, but it's a very big task to account for everything that affects braking in an emergency, and not something I could reasonably expect of any driver.

On a slightly different topic.. Having more rotor and caliper is more about heat dissipation. More material means less heat per amount of material, so it takes longer to heat soak and you get some insurance against brake fade.

I don't mean to detract from your work! This is a great guide for those who need to bypass a malfunctioning system or don't want it on a built rig.

ABS on these trucks actually hinders braking power when you run larger tires. It's as if of the big tires confuse the ABS brain. That and it seems like air is always trapped in these units and they're impossible to bleed. I could never get rid of the mushy brake pedal feel until I ditched ABS.
 

BlueCruiser84

SILVER Star
Joined
Nov 1, 2004
Messages
3,463
Location
Staunton, VA
I've also heard, though I don't know if there is a way to prove it, that the ABS unit after 20+ yrs has gotten air inside that is impossible to bleed out which making braking less efficient. I intend to do this to both my rigs right after the other huge list of projects...

Thanks for the awesome step-by-step.
 
Joined
Apr 16, 2006
Messages
1,189
Location
Cardiff BTS & Tahoe
the abs thingy can be difficult/impossible to bleed.
also, it gets full of corrosion and is not a serviceable part. i could not get clean fluid from the abs module during a bleed. it was always dirty/rustly looking fluid.
 
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Rivman1243

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I took me about 6 or 7 times of bleeding the brakes and activating the abs in between bleeding before I got clean fluid and a firm pedal. But I was able to get it done.
 
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I'm not sure I understand why you would disable a functioning ABS system. It only engages when the wheels start to lock, so it's not as if you're accessing greater braking potential. If you lock the wheels up on the road, you're going to generate less friction (due to the kinetic coefficient of friction being in play instead of static,) _and_ you'll lose control authority.
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Your saying that a rotating tire is causing more friction than one that is completely locked up and dragging across the surface of the road ?

The reason people want to bypass is because the factory system can be dangerous. I have a particular stretch of road in mind, it has a nasty bump in it about 50yds from a stop light. Hitting this bump at anything higher than 20mph just as the light starts to turn leaves me with less than confident feelings as my brake pedal begins pulsing under my foot whilst the cruiser is barreling for a rapidly evolving situation at the intersection !

This was a fantastic write up btw.
 
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He is correct. There is more to the grip of a tire than simple friction, but the rotating tire is analogous to the static coefficient of friction, while a locked up tire is analogous to the sliding coefficient of friction. The static coefficient of friction is higher than the sliding coefficient of friction for rubber, therefore your highest braking force is a rotating tire just on the edges of lockup.
 
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Just did this. Excellent write up. Thanks you.
Getting the proportioning valve bolts out is by far the hardest part. I too broke one of them off. Every one was a battle though.
 
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I took me about 6 or 7 times of bleeding the brakes and activating the abs in between bleeding before I got clean fluid and a firm pedal. But I was able to get it done.
That is the key. ABS needs to be activated to "cycle" the fluid and the system should be bled after cycling the ABS system to purge the old fluid.
You're also opening up a liability issue by deleting an ABS system on an ABS equipped vehicle, but that is another discussion altogether. (That is another discussion).
Personally, I'm pretty happy with the OEM system.
 
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Did this mod and like most am SUPER happy. Now how do I turn off ABS light? looks like pulling bulb involves dash removal:bang:
 

Mr Cimarron

DRIVE, BREAK, FIX, REPEAT
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I should really get around to this as it has been on my list for awhile. My ABS has been disabled but the module is still there. Just need to remove it.
 

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