Worth it?? (5 Viewers)

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Craigslist is definitely worth keeping an eye on. That's where I found mine last year! I ran across a number of nice looking examples on Ebay as well. I would spent an hour or so in the evenings a few times a week searching various sources like that. Was a nice way to relax and unwind. Always fun to look at some of the amazing rigs out there, even the ones that were out of my price range.
 
Will do. Any one use Tempest? Supposedly it captures classifieds mainly from Craigs List, Ebay, FB.
I just use the craigslist app. Don't have FB.
 
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An example of what I am “searching” for n the CL app
 
Heres one that checks a lot of boxes. Has rust issues, floorboards, doors, rear tub quarter panels. Not sure what else, but how much would you pay for this? Also what would you expect to pay for work that needs to be done. Not looking for a show car just a reliable driver thats not corroding away.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/usa-1979-toyota-land-cruiser-fj40.1358566/

 
Have you seen this one? Its close to you and your budget. Does not appear to be a complete pile of rust like 99% of vehicles in NY (lived there).

 
Have you seen this one? Its close to you and your budget. Does not appear to be a complete pile of rust like 99% of vehicles in NY (lived there).

I did see the listing. Little older than I want. Although it's seems pretty solid not sure about the body. But might go check it out.
 
If you havent actually looked or driven a 40, you need too. Even if you don't intend to buy it. Crawl around it snd under it. The more you see the more you'll be informed. The 67 might be a little rusty.

In 79 there was a major design change. The Gas tank was moved to under the vehicle and p/s and ac was an added options. 79 and later 40's tend to rust more. Personally the rust in that 40 could run real deep in to the nooks snd crannies. It could be expensive repairs. I'm also partial to 78 and earlier models. Fyi, 75 and earlier models will have 4 wheel drums which can be swapped out. 73 and earlier had 3 speeds which are a little awkward because 1st gear isn't sycronized. Driveline parts can all be swapped out. 75 and later had 4 speeds. As I mentioned b4, I would try to find a good body that runs decent. This lands around 20 to 30k or less. I think this one is intriguing.
 
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If you havent actually looked or driven a 40, you need too. Even if you don't intend to buy it. Crawl around it snd under it. The more you see the more you'll be informed. The 67 might be a little rusty.

In 79 there was a major design change. The Gas tank was moved to under the vehicle and p/s and ac was an added options. 79 and later 40's tend to rust more. Personally the rust in that 40 could run real deep in to the nooks snd crannies. It could be expensive repairs. I'm also partial to 78 and earlier models. Fyi, 75 and earlier models will have 4 wheel drums which can be swapped out. 74 and earlier had 3 speeds which are a little awkward because 1st gear isn't sycronized. Driveline parts can all be swapped out. 75 and later had 4 speeds. As I mentioned b4, I would try to find a good body that runs decent. This lands around 20 to 30k or less. I think this one is intriguing.
Actually, some '74's have a 4-speed tranny as well. It was introduced later in that model year.
 
@RevISK you're missing the money search term... "land criuser" that's where you find the steals!
This comment is funny because that's exactly how I found mine on craigslist. It had sat there for weeks when I found it with that search, and I was surprised to see it was still available. But I think it is because of that magic search "land cruiser" that I was able to find the gem that I did and why it sat so long without being found sooner.
 
My advice would be to study the year to year changes Toyota made, and then determine what year model, or range of year models, you are interested in. Then look for ones within your criteria.

I grew up in Northern New England and virtually all older vehicles have serious rust issues. When in the USAF I was stationed for a time in Arizona. I was like a kid in a candy store because you could find 30 year old vehicles with zero rust. The point being you are way, way ahead to buy a rust free vehicle from the desert southwest than to buy a rust bucket... because it was close by.

There's a saying; "The three most important things in real estate are location, location, location". Well, in my opinion the three most important things when buying a used FJ40 are rust, rust, rust.

Spend the money on the transportation of a nice rust-free vehicle rather than on trying to fix a rust bucket.
 
Tried it and found this one, thoughts...besides the Bezel-LOL

1976 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ 40 Hard Top 4x4 -WE FINANCE AND NATIONWIDE SHIPPING! - $24,900 (+ Truck Depot)

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Painted so might be hiding stuff, non-stock bumpers, cut fenders, it's a 76 so it would need to pass smog in CA, hence the NV title (might be floating a title?). Weird of a dealer to do that, but maybe.

Try using Searchcraigslist.org?

EDIT - it's hard to find a good rig. Doing the right thing to ask the Mud hive mind, imo. I've looked at hundreds of these ads and others on here have looked at hundreds (or more) than me.
 
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@RevISK you're missing the money search term... "land criuser" that's where you find the steals!
That’s how all the good Warren Wenches are found!
 
Rear 1/4 are cut for the flares, missing the rubber pads on the windshield hold downs, make sure the strange rear bumper isnt welded on. Gauges cluster, ashtray, inside gas filler cover and glove box door should be silver. It's also missing the lower portion of the gas filler cover. You need pics of the engine compartment and underneath. Things were not removed when it was painted which is a sign of possible short cuts. Overspray. It's missing the under dash fan/heater duct between the fan and heater. The frt seat brackets are not correct and look iffy and i dont think the seats are correct. I think it has more miles on it than odometer is showing. Take a magnet and look for filler. Lift the Mats and see what's under them. Do they have b4 paint pics?
 
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Rear 1/4 are cut for the flares, missing the rubber pads on the windshield hold downs, make sure the strange rear bumper isnt welded on. Gauges cluster, ashtray, inside gas filler and glove box door should be silver. It's also missing the lower portion of the cover. You need pics of the engine compartment and underneath. Things were not removed when it was painted which is a sign of possible short cuts. Overspray. It's missing the fan/heater duct between the fan and heater. The frt seat brackets are not correct and look iffy and ibdontbthink the seats are correct. I think it has more miles on it than odometer is showing. Take a magnet and look for filler. Lift the Matt's and see what's under them. Do they have b4 paint pics?
Wow good eyes. I need some religion. Thank you!!
 

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