Workshop Extension and Updates (2 Viewers)

[Delancy]

I have seen people further South just pour to the top of the trench and build on that if the frost line is fairly shallow.

About the deepest I've encountered is 30" in MO, but the typical depths are 18-24" in South Central US and heaving is almost the third guarantee with concrete (first two being, it will get hard and it will crack) considering the clay soil and extreme climate (wet spring/summer drought).

Completely different animal, region specific, and interesting to see the variations.

 

[PAToyota]

You do bring up another point - soil types. Around here the main issue is the frost line. But I have had projects that have had to go to pilings (typically concrete, sometimes steel) because of soil conditions like what you describe with the clay.

 

[PAToyota]

Hey now, I didn't see how the blocks were laid. Details man, details!!!

Anything in particular that you're looking for? Or just showing the process in general? As I said, I'll take my camera out the next time I'm laying block.

Probably a dumb question, but is the reason for elevating the stem wall above grade for supporting ground snow loads?

Missed this before. Two main reasons.

First, I like keeping the framing further away from the soil line to reduce rot/insect issues. I see too many structures with rotten sill plates when you get down to the soil line. Often you have foundation plantings, which just keeps the area moist. That in turn leads to more insect problems.

The second reason is that for the shop I want to be able to hose down the floors inside. So this lifts the drywall up away from the wet floors. Makes cleaning things out much easier.

 

[45Kevin]

Looking good, but I hope those blocks were dry when you laid them.

 

[PAToyota]

Yep, laid block the end of last week and then the rain started Sunday - a day after the last block were laid. Now waiting for everything to dry out again before I can start in on it again.

 

[alia176]

Anything in particular that you're looking for? Or just showing the process in general? As I said, I'll take my camera out the next time I'm laying block.



Missed this before. Two main reasons.

First, I like keeping the framing further away from the soil line to reduce rot/insect issues. I see too many structures with rotten sill plates when you get down to the soil line. Often you have foundation plantings, which just keeps the area moist. That in turn leads to more insect problems.

The second reason is that for the shop I want to be able to hose down the floors inside. So this lifts the drywall up away from the wet floors. Makes cleaning things out much easier.

Just wanting to see your process in general.

Speaking of laying blocks dry, thought I saw some folks spray the blocks with water before laying them. This keeps the moisture being sucked out of the grout, I think was the reason I was given.

 

[PAToyota]

Typically you want them dry so that the moisture wicks into the block and carries elements of the mortar with it.

As such, it is sort of like the difference between welding something and gluing it. Done properly, the mortar and block actually fuse together to a certain extent. It isn't just that the mortar sticks to the outside of the block like a glue. This is why cleaning mortar off of used blocks (or bricks) isn't exactly an easy proposition (unless you're using old fashioned lime mortar, which is a different story).

There are block layers that will wet the block in situations with high heat and low humidity to keep the mortar from drying too quickly. However, this is not typically an industry accepted practice. If the block is too wet, it will prevent the mortar from wicking into the block and you will just be "gluing" the block together.

If you go through the specifications from someplace like the National Concrete Masonry Association - http://www.ncma.org - you'll find that they specifically disallow wetting block.

 

[se2000]

Being in NM in the summer, I could see where sponging water, not soaking, may be acceptable practice. I don't know.
Sort of like tile work.

I didn't see my explanation already answered. I saw that it was cheaper not using as much concrete. Maybe I missed it.

 

[PAToyota]

If you were asking whether it was done to prevent soil heave from lifting the wall, I've never really run into that as a reason. If you're under the frost line with the foundation, I'm not sure that it would get enough purchase on the walls to lift the whole thing. Again, it may be an issue with certain soil conditions.

I took the camera out and tried to take some pictures while laying block. That really doesn't work for one person to be laying block and trying to take pictures at the same time. Plus, it really doesn't give you an idea of the operation if you keep putting things down to take pictures of them.

So here is a video of the process of laying block that was pretty good:



Notice how he flicks the trowel down or taps it on either the mortar pan or the wall to get the mortar to compact. If you just scoop up some mortar without compacting it, it will pretty much just fall off your trowel. You can use both sides (top and bottom) of the trowel depending on what you're comfortable with. You may even use one side for the far side of the wall and the other for the near side of the wall. You'll develop a rhythm.

Mortar consistency is also very important. Too wet and it just runs off the trowel and won't support the block for a good mortar bed. Too dry and it just falls of the trowel. Too sandy and it just falls off the trowel. You want just the right amount of "stickiness" from the cement and just the right amount of water to give you a sticky flowable mortar.

 

[PAToyota]

Got the bulk of the block work finished up yesterday - and the rain just started a bit ago today. Still have to put in some rebar and anchor bolts, sill blocks at the overhead door, and straighten a couple things up. Then the foundation inspection and I can start framing.

 

[PAToyota]

Well, it was supposed to rain Monday, so I didn't plan to do any work - and it didn't rain.

I planned to do some things yesterday since it wasn't supposed to rain - but it did rain so I didn't get anything done.

They're calling for rain today, so I'm not going to do anything today.

They're saying that tomorrow through Saturday shouldn't have rain - we'll see.

Mind you, last week they were saying Sunday through Wednesday were supposed to be nice and then rain from Thursday on...

 

[Delancy]

Well, it was supposed to rain Monday, so I didn't plan to do any work - and it didn't rain.

I planned to do some things yesterday since it wasn't supposed to rain - but it did rain so I didn't get anything done.

They're calling for rain today, so I'm not going to do anything today.

Murphy-ish Law

When there's a high chance of rain and you call the day, the sun will come out and be enjoyable on the day off.

When a low chance, and determined a workday, it'll rain all day, guaranteed.

No matter what decision made, someone's going to question it without fail, regardless of all data available at decision time.

 

[PAToyota]

Well, it is actually raining now, so at least I got today right.

 

[Delancy]

Well, it is actually raining now, so at least I got today right.

I didn't.

 

[PAToyota]

Of course, it only rained enough to soak things and then is sunny again - but more chances of rain tonight.

 

[Delancy]

In my case, it rained enough to fill the (68) 3/4"-1" holes we spent six hours drilling for epoxy anchors......before we epoxied.

 

[PAToyota]

Managed to finish up the last of the masonry work today before it fully started raining. It was drizzling off and on the last hour that I was working. So I'll be calling the inspector Monday morning and hopefully moving on to framing here.

 

[PAToyota]

Just passed the foundation inspection - so cleared to start framing.

 

[Delancy]

Congrats.

 

[Jetboy]

How do you go about putting a sill plate on the blocks?

And I'm assuming you'll wait till it's dried in to pour the slab? But where do you frame the walls then and keep them straight.