Workshop Extension and Updates (3 Viewers)

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dang it dude, I need to seem some progress. Notebook is at the ready!!!
 
In February the long range forecasts were showing more warm nights in March, so I was waiting for March. Now the long range forecasts are showing warm nights in April...
 
While we wait and for conversations sake.

One aspect of construction that's often overlooked is the fact that we have to become amateur meteorologist, to maintain some level of profitability.

Know where and when resources are best utilized.

I'm always questioned over, what appear to me, easy decisions, regarding weather.

For instance, working in the central plains, wind events delay more jobs than any other form of inclement weather, but I still have to field calls, from relatively intelligent people, as to why we're not roofing (metal) on sunny, 60 degree days.....with 30-40 mph gusts.

Equate to flying a 300 sf kite that weighs 160lbs with Ginsu-ish edges all held by human fingers.

Pictorial point.

6 guys and two man lifts, the 100' liner panel on wall should've been 2 hours worth of work (no itch).



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Took 8. Constant 45mph wind. At this point, I'll be running in red by Thursday of next week, the job literally taking 60% longer than it typically would.

Now, had this job been attacked with veracity by the GC in December, as it was supposed to be, wouldn't be in this situation, but hard to charge for wind, yet can't sit at home due to growing workload with deadlines and employees retention rate will suffer.

Point, in relation to this thread ( which I'm fully aware of your particular plans/situation, PA ) is, from a professional "git-er-dun" standpoint, digging trenches, Simon forming, then pumping a job this size, while expensive, would've been a two day job (IF 24hr inspections are guaranteed), and would be allowed for work to progress on the slab and framing, in a few days without freezing precipitation.

95% of my workload is commercial/industrial/self storage, and interest calculates at a higher rate (when calculating over the lifespan of a loan) than spending a little more, up front. Most the principals I deal with get it, but the 5% DIY ( business owners that try to play GC) don't, and wind up costing a boatload more by nickel and dimeing subs to death, wondering why they won't take risks through the duration of the job, when they, essentially, tie their hands by not allowing for the 15-20% X factor funds on a job.

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I fully understand the issues you guys face. Obviously, this is my own little personal project so it makes more sense for me to wait and save money rather than throw a lot of dollars at it to "git-er-dun," as you say.

I find myself so much aware of the weather when I'm doing a construction project of some sort. Looking back on March from a personal standpoint, it wasn't bad - a little colder than past years and colder than I'd prefer, but a lot of nice sunny days and all. From a construction standpoint, it was a mess - cold, rainy, and muddy.

I'm really seeing a lot of benefit in the various modular construction methods - precast concrete panels, modular wall panels, SIPs, and such. Build the components in a "factory" and then get things enclosed out on the site in a couple days instead of a couple weeks.
 
Well, the next two weeks are finally showing overnight temperatures well above freezing - and currently only three days with possible rain. So it looks like I'm finally able to get back into this project.

I've been out this morning and dug out all of the dirt that fell down in on top of the footings over the winter. Now I have to hose things down to clean up the footings so that I get a good bond with the mortar. But I should be good to go to lay more block tomorrow.
 
Then there was the other structural engineer who designed a plywood gusset for a wood truss with 52 16d nails each side to fasten it to the 2x members. I asked if he had ever heard of bolts? His reply was he thought the nails would be easier because with bolts then they would need wrenches, which carpenters probably wouldn't carry...

I've got a structural engineer I've worked with for twenty years. His father was a contractor. I know without even asking that his design will be practical, economical, and make sense.

The engineer I hired for my last project spec'd out hundreds of Simpson Hurricane straps with 16 nails in each strap. When I asked him if he was concerned about putting that many nails in 40 year old pine that had been drying up in an attic all that time he gave me that blank facial expression of a golden retriever and said nothing. Just stared at me. Motionless.

When I offered that perhaps we should go down a size and nail and or pre-drill and perhaps check with Simpson he nodded. Simpson said we were still with in our hold down requirement with smaller nails and he signed off on it and charged me $500 extra.

Nice.

Just for kicks, I tried using the strap shot nailer with the larger nails and no pre-driling and it splintered the wood up right away. I wound up pre-drilling close to the ends and just using one size smaller nails in the positive placement nailer.

Your project looks great! Nothing cooler than building a workshop!
 
PAToyota,

I'll try to remember, but fully intend on cleaning this thread up. Should I forget, please PM.

Y'all may get a kick out of this.

Unloading a stretch trailer ( in the cold arse rain, though 80, yesterday ) that cost $3,100 from Houston to OKC area, because of an architects failure to realize the limitations of architectural SSR.

I don't specifically market metal roofing fir post frame, since its a Pandora's Box of problems, but have done several for contractors through the years, this being the fourth for the same on a tribal medical complex.

What began as a simple 6,000sf gable, Econ-SSR morphed into the most cut up POS I've ever agreed to do, requiring a much more expensive SSR. I would've walked had GC not been a very good account.



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Now 9,100sf, with less usable.

Longest run is 56'. 53' the legal limit in TX/OK.

Think there's 20 panels on the entire roof that don't cut at eave and peak, which consumes a fortune in time.

Net result. Originally, they budgeted $21k. Costing $55k and I'm hoping I come out in the black.

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Unfortunately, I'm all too familiar with such things. As we've discussed before, there is a genuine difference between those who stay in the office and work on paper vs. those who get out in the field and understand the materials they are working with and how they go together.

I've had a few recent conversations with friends who are teachers or who are otherwise in education. For decades the schools have been pushing college for everyone that can afford it (defining "able to afford it" is a whole other discussion considering student loan debt...). As a country, we've been led down the road to where sitting in a cubicle pushing papers around is somehow the pinnacle of career advancement. We really need to get back to the understanding that there are many different paths, different ways to be intelligent, and different ways to be capable. Just as there is the "shovel jockey" who knows little more than the routine of digging the ditch, there is the "desk jockey" who knows little more than the routine of processing the paperwork.
 
It sounds like few architects are chiming in on this thread. May I consult one of you with my own shop project just to make sure I'm sorta/kinda on the right track?
 
Not a problem!

Disclaimer: I am registered to practice architecture in the State of Pennsylvania. Any advice that I give for any project outside the State of Pennsylvania is for general knowledge only and you should consult a local professional familiar with your jurisdiction's regulations, requirements, and codes.

Or something like that... :)
 
My disclaimer is : I am licensed as a professional engineer in Pa, Md, WV, Va, Tn, NC and DC. If I give you my own opinion in other states an the stuff falls down and causes injury, it is worth exactly why you paid for Internet advice. Our stuff hasn't fallen down since 2004. ;)
 
LOL, your disclaimer noted. My drawings will need to be approved by the local AHJ so I simply need to understand some basic stuff when it comes to building a shop. I've learned quite a bit from this thread, which I appreciate.

Thanks.
 
It is actually somewhat crazy how such legalities work out. The registration exams are pretty much the same for all fifty states, US Virgin Islands, Guam, Puerto Rico. Also fairly easy to get reciprocity in Canada. A few states add other requirements in - seismic in California, arctic engineering in Alaska, and so forth. As I say with Canada, once you are registered in one state it is fairly easy to get reciprocity in another state - you don't have to take the exam again, you just forward your exam results and pay the fees. But registration is by a state by state basis.

I recently had a client that I've worked for in the past in Pennsylvania who wants to build a retirement home in North Carolina. NC does not require sealed drawings for residential construction - pretty much anyone can draw up a set of plans and if they pass the review you can build from them. You can do them yourself, a high school kid who has taken a drafting course could do them, my neighbor here in Pennsylvania could do them. But, since I am a registered architect, I would have to be registered in NC to be able to do them... In other words, since I am a registered architect I have to be registered in the jurisdiction where I am practicing architecture. If I WAS NOT registered anywhere, I could do them... So it would cost $400 to get my record transmitted, $150 for the initial reciprocal registration, and then $50 a year to maintain my registration. If I let my registration lapse and then wanted to renew it later, I'd have to pay the registration fee for the intervening years. So if I let it lapse for four years and then wanted it reinstated I'd have to pay $200 for the four years it lapsed and $50 for the new registration year.
 
Well, the weather has begun to cooperate a bit more. Overnight temperatures are above freezing and we've had a few clear sunny days in a row here and there. So I'm back to making progress. Today and the next two days are rain, though. Then a day to dry things back out again. But should be able to get back to it the end of the week / weekend.

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And rebar.

@ PA,

Is there some code requirement that prohibits filling a ditched trench there?

Even on the deepest of foundations I've seen, locally, we tie steel in cages, lower into a ditched trench, and pour to grade.

Curious why it was necessary to expose both sides of the stem wall, necessitating block or forms, considering it's not a full basement.

Just got to reading this thread. Did you mean why use forms when you could just fill in the trench? I am no pro but what I learned is that you don't want to do rough walls at frost line or above or you can get heave. The dirt will grab the concrete and lift during a heave.
 
Hey now, I didn't see how the blocks were laid. Details man, details!!!
 
Pretty much like LEGOs... :)

I'll take the camera out when I'm laying block the next time.
 
Just got to reading this thread. Did you mean why use forms when you could just fill in the trench? I am no pro but what I learned is that you don't want to do rough walls at frost line or above or you can get heave. The dirt will grab the concrete and lift during a heave.

I had answered his question here:

I'm not quite sure that I understand. But I think that you mean you'd have a foundation several feet thick - up to grade - and then build on that. I guess that would depend on how deep your frost depth is. Again, it is cheaper to have a thinner foundation (here it is 8") by the required width (16" was required here) and then build from that up to grade (36" frost depth) with block rather than have a 16" x 36" deep foundation. For every 10' of foundation wall, I only have about 9 c.f. of concrete instead of nearly 40 c.f. if I just poured the whole trench full.

[edit] And even if I formed the foundation wall and continued to use concrete, I'd only need an 8" wall so for that 10' of wall I'd only have an additional 15.5 c.f. of concrete and still come in about 15.5 c.f. less than pouring the whole trench.

I have seen people further South just pour to the top of the trench and build on that if the frost line is fairly shallow.
 

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