Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (10 Viewers)

[John McVicker]

What @Spike Strip said. When you go to turn the key for the 1st time, you want the red tacky stuff. And be very generous with it.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

If you guys were paying attention to my videos, I WAS using a tacky assembly lube for the main bearings, crank and caps install and I could barely spin the crank. The rods were not installed and it was held so snug it was as if I’d added Elmer’s glue inside. I pulled everything and wiped the tacky lube off and reinstalled w/ oil. Once I’d done that I was finally able to spin the crank. At this point I’ll take my chances. I went back and forth mad texting w/ 4 people I feel I can trust yesterday. I felt like my head was gonna blow up.
Thanks but drop the ‘you gotta use the assembly lube’ cuz your beating a dead horse.

 

[John McVicker]

I’ll give it one more shot...consider using something other than 5-30 on your cam and bearings.

Your starter has more omph than your wrist. (Or mine for that matter)

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

This is not my cam.

This is my crank, the main bearings and con rod bearings. I went w/ oil for the crank because the assembly lube (federal mogul) made them stick together as if glued.

 

[John McVicker]

Ok.

 

[Spike Strip]

If you're not going to use the assy lube, be sure and do the long screwdiver in a drill thing to spin the oil pump and make sure you see oil dripping from the rocker shaft before 1st fire up. Maybe you were planning this?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Ok thank you.
It’s amazing how I find I have to explain my reasoning and still I’ve doubt thrown at me.
Interestingly I found this thread (not Toyota) w/ almost the exact issue I was having.
Maybe if folks could actually watch my videos and read my words and not skim through this link you may realize I am thinking through this. And as I said I was mad texting 3 highly skilled mud folks and a helicopter mechanic last night regarding the decisions I made today. Crank slow to spin after installation - LS1TECH - Camaro and Firebird Forum Discussion

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Well aware about covering the bolts. Dings were from out of the box, not from a clumsy hand. I did show the rubber hose in the piston install video. Thanks tho!

Sorry F. I did not watch your video. Good work. Working now and on TG like you.

 

[cruisermatt]

I don't even "prime" the oil systems on new engines any more. Waste of time. Brand new bone dry motor.. it will still make oil pressure in two crankshaft rotations just like one with 200k

 

[Beerfix]

I hate to ask it a second time, but did you ever check thrust after you installed the crank? Good to do it before you go any further. And make sure all those rods float around real nice on the crank pins too. I'll respectfully refrain from any comment I may have on the 5/30 VS the sticky gooey for prelube...

 

[Beerfix]

Not to get ahead of the game here, but you are getting pretty close, and things will start going fast from here out. Think about what oil you will run for break in. We used to use straight 30 diesel engine oil for break-in, until they all went green. A few oil burners were built, a few cams were wiped, and a few puzzled mechanics were wondering exactly what the hell they did wrong, before we realized this. There's probably other options out there, and to any other engine builders, please chime in, but we had the best results with John Deere break-in oil. DO NOT use modern standard engine oil for break in.

 

[Beerfix]

So I'll repeat myself here, either I'm an idiot or the makers were... I got rods to 5 then 2 mated to their pistons. But then I had to push out 1 & 6 pistons because I couldn't turn the crank to pull up the rods to the journals to do the next set without risking bumping the bolts against journals. Kinda a weird puzzle of sorts. So once 1 & 6 were out of the way I could turn the crank to pull up the pistons to 3 & 4. And unfortunately two bearings in the set have dings in them out of the box, naked to my eye and most definitely detectable to my nail. I'll try calling the shop Friday (they ordered them) but mostly likely will have to wait till Monday. Bah.


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The hole in the middle of the bearing is no good, I wouldn't run it. The dings on the edge, I'd probably take a red scotch-brite to those, and forget all about 'em.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Okay I watched this when I woke up too early cuz I couldn't stop coughing from this nasty cold... I'll reel myself back.

 

[g-man]

Fel, you said you had to knock the #6 and #1 piston back out. I assume you put all the pistons in the block then tried to connect them? We always put one piston in the bore, spun the block over, pulled off the two 3" long fuel line pieces off the connecting rod threads and connected to the crank. Then turn the crank slightly so next connecting rod will line up on the crank, turn the motor back upright and put the next piston in. Flip the motor back over pull off the protective short fuel lines and connect that second one. And just continue like this one at a time to the end. Lube the cylinder walls with motor oil and the conn. rod bearings too.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yeah that makes sense too but I didn’t realise it at the time. All that flipping makes me a smidge nervous. I hook up a strap around the block and attach it to the hoist as an extra precaution. It likes to walk a bit out of the stand harness so then I periodically take the weight off the stand and knock it back in then tighten it down again. Ever since you said you had a block tip oversizes ways I’m much more leery.
And I didn’t knock the pistons out, I just gently pushed.

 

[g-man]

I know it's hard to find anyone to help you when you need a hand. Everyone is SO busy these days. But try to find a second and qualified person to help you. Not only with spinning the block and making sure it doesn't come out of the stand but also just to have a second set of eyes.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I know it's hard to find anyone to help you when you need a hand. Everyone is SO busy these days. But try to find a second and qualified person to help you. Not only with spinning the block and making sure it doesn't come out of the stand but also just to have a second set of eyes.

Oh shush. I'm quite capable. Clearly you have not paid attention to the amount of s*** I’ve done alone. We move bodies at work/ similar devices, I know how to look twice or more before I start moving stuff.

 

[g-man]

I have a movie recommendation for you ..."Brittany runs a marathon". Yes you are capable but it's important get some support. If I were doing this I would want another set of hands and eyes. Not accusing you because of your sex or whatever.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I have a movie recommendation for you ..."Brittany runs a marathon". Yes you are capable but it's important get some support. If I were doing this I would want another set of hands and eyes. Not accusing you because of your sex or whatever.

Then zip it. No one is raising their hands and rushing to come over. I’m okay and if I decide I’m not okay, I’ll seek help. I honestly don’t want anyone else over here cuz if anyone’s gonna f it up I’d rather it just be me.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Picked up this antique transmission jack tonight for $50. It’s a big one! Most likely will be just for removal of the tcase and transmission. More than likely I’ll be installing the engine and tcase/trans together in a few months as one piece.
Regardless this is a very cool old jack. It raises to 24” and ratchets up and down.