NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,801
Ok thanks. They most definitely are. I appreciate the quick response.
Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (6 Viewers)
- Thread starter NeverGiveUpYota
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
4runner2FJ60
SILVER Star
They taper from wear........
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,803
I’ll probably kick myself afterward but here goes... a video of me spinning my crank. The only thing installed is the main bearings, crank and main caps. Nothing more. It’s tight. I used federal mogul assembly lube, garage is unheated and it’s been cold (well under 50, more like 40) for weeks and I’m a female.
Consensus is I call the shop and ask the machinist to make a house call to verify all is correct.
I’ll try first at minimum to remove the caps and clean off the lube which is way tacky and add a light oil instead and see if it’s any different.
Consensus is I call the shop and ask the machinist to make a house call to verify all is correct.
I’ll try first at minimum to remove the caps and clean off the lube which is way tacky and add a light oil instead and see if it’s any different.
Last edited:
rock n roll felicity! you know we're here for ya!
g-man
SILVER Star
30 wt oil is fine instead of assembly lube. But I wouldn't bother going backwards ...ie removing assembly oil. When I rebuild my 390 on my 63 Galaxie we used a push button type jumper wire from the battery to the starter solenoid instead of the ignition the first time we tried to turn the motor. Pushed it the motor didn't move and the jumper wires burned up. I had to pull the spark plugs out and spray penetrating oil down the cylinders and crank the motor around by hand a few times. Next we were able to crank the motor by jumping the battery again to the starter solenoid. Again without the plugs in the holes. Then it was ready to fire. Point is a newly rebuild motor can and will be snug like that.
g-man
SILVER Star
Just make sure your connecting rods are oriented...facing the right way, the pistons are facing the right way etc and nothing is binding.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,807
To clarify. The only thing installed is the main bearings, crank and main caps. Nothing more.
Does look a little tight, maybe. Did you check thrust?
g-man
SILVER Star
Ok. I didn't catch that the pistons were NOT installed. Yeah that should turn easier. What happens when you take it inside the house and warm it up to 70 degrees? Yes at this stage you could take it apart wipe it off ie back side of the bearings, put them on dry and wipe a finger of 30wt oil on the crank surface side of the bearing.
Did u do the plastigauge with or without assembly oil? Should be done without.
Electrical is dead easy on any vehicle from this age. The FJ60 electrical is far from complex and actually makes sense. The biggest issue is cleaning up the mess the PO left you.
Try rewiring a 60 British car......that will leave you running and screaming. Worse if the vehicle was built on a Friday.
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,812
Ok so regarding the crank. I opened up all the caps, removed and cleaned up that s***ty tacky assembly lube. Fully clean I did plastigauge #2 & 3 since I hadn’t done those two. 2 was .002 like 1 & 4. 3 was the tiniest bit between .002 and .003.
Once that was done I dribbled a few drips of 5/30 motor oil on the journals then lubed lightly the bearings in the caps and reinstalled from 4 (furthest back) one at a time tightening bolts and spinning each time after each cap install. MUCH easier spin, no binding felt.
Here’s a video clip after all four were reinstalled tight but not fully torqued yet.
Once that was done I dribbled a few drips of 5/30 motor oil on the journals then lubed lightly the bearings in the caps and reinstalled from 4 (furthest back) one at a time tightening bolts and spinning each time after each cap install. MUCH easier spin, no binding felt.
Here’s a video clip after all four were reinstalled tight but not fully torqued yet.
Last edited:
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
LOL... F, we have chatted multiple time over the PMs here but never actually talked on the phone. Hearing your voice on the video made me smile because it was EXACTLY as I had imagined you would sound... Great job on the crank!
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,814
Swapped kid to his Papa (grandpa) earlier as I'll be working Tday (always do holidays, can't pass up double time plus a half) 7-3, Didn't make sense to have his dad drive all the way out my direction after work when everyone would be all holiday grocery store crazy by that time of day. Came home and added sealer to 1 & 4 main caps and torqued all per fsm. Crank still spins smooth and easily with motor oil unlike that nasty assembly lube which might go to the trash.
Moved onto the pistons install. I'll add a video when its finished uploading to youtube but here's a pretty picture for everyone to enjoy.
Moved onto the pistons install. I'll add a video when its finished uploading to youtube but here's a pretty picture for everyone to enjoy.
Last edited:
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Fresh machine work is sexy!
Congrats
Congrats
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,816
So I'll repeat myself here, either I'm an idiot or the makers were... I got rods to 5 then 2 mated to their pistons. But then I had to push out 1 & 6 pistons because I couldn't turn the crank to pull up the rods to the journals to do the next set without risking bumping the bolts against journals. Kinda a weird puzzle of sorts. So once 1 & 6 were out of the way I could turn the crank to pull up the pistons to 3 & 4. And unfortunately two bearings in the set have dings in them out of the box, naked to my eye and most definitely detectable to my nail. I'll try calling the shop Friday (they ordered them) but mostly likely will have to wait till Monday. Bah.
Last edited:
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
F-You have to cover the rod bolts with tubing to prevent just this problem. That's every install and especially if you have to take it apart. That way if the bolt touches the bearing, it won't do any damage. The shop likely assumed you knew that.
While those bearings don't look bad, you're right to replace with good ones while it's apart.
While those bearings don't look bad, you're right to replace with good ones while it's apart.
Last edited:
You want that tacky assy lube for proper break in and to prevent a dry start.
Often referred to as 'Red Lube of Love':
Amazon product ASIN B000HBNVSK
Often referred to as 'Red Lube of Love':
Amazon product ASIN B000HBNVSK
Cruiserdrew
On the way there
Ha-where there is lube, there is love.<<<Old mechanics saying
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,820
Well aware about covering the bolts. Dings were from out of the box, not from a clumsy hand. I did show the rubber hose in the piston install video. Thanks tho!
Last edited:
