#6 is in there so does that mean they didn’t need to oversized the bore and your pistons are usable? That’d be awesome and save you a ton.
Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (19 Viewers)
- Thread starter NeverGiveUpYota
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NeverGiveUpYota
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- #2,642
Huh? That’s Spikes photo, not mine. Nope it’s overbored already. Pistons and ring set ordered.
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Looks really good so far.
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #2,644
Nothing has been done to the snout so far. They had me swing back in yesterday after getting the crank back from another machinist who does tool and die. I told a few of you, they had said that guy was going to add material to the OD and then grind it down so it would be the right size. I nearly had a heart attack when that sank in Monday and called them back after leaving and told them I wanted no material added to the snout. I told them I’d go back the next day once they got the crank back and show them how the hb hand slides onto the snout. So essentially the main guy Richie asked me to come back to test fit the hb on the snout, I assume to prove to us both how tight it fits. I knew it did, I’ve had it on and off too many times to forget! So he held the shaft steady and saw and after I had it on I grabbed hold and tried to jiggle it, it has a very minimal jiggle but nothing to be concerned with.
Next he said something about “are you going to get new lifters and a cam?” My heart began racing... I told him it was all here, did they find the lifters bad? I pull the box of them out all numbered. He shows me that over time the tops flatten and he says they should have a slight peak on them so they spin as the cam lobs lift and shows me w/ a ruler. I point blank ask “your sure Toyota lifters are the same?” He says “they’re all like that.” I didn’t think to flip through my book that was there on the counter. After I left, I asked a few and I’ve been told that’s wrong. The young guy who’s doing most of the actual hands on work, answers the phone later when I call and says “they should have a 7* peak, they may look flat to your eye but per Toyota that’s how they’re made even tho they’re called flat tappet.” So anyone able to verify? @HemiAlex or @evilorgoodtwin had you bought new lifters?
Regarding the keyway, the other machinist who does tool and die would be the one cutting a new one 180* out. So is it really that necessary to fill the sheared original keyway? I’m feeling it’s not, I’ve got it in my head from reading long ago that less heat added to the snout the better for the hardened metal? @65swb45, Mark do you have any opinion? Pretty sure you and I talked long ago about my sheared keyway and then you had said brazing if anything, was the least invasive way to weld on that metal?
I’ve yet to get a quote oddly, even tho they’ve begun work, when I called yesterday I told them I need something so far.
Next he said something about “are you going to get new lifters and a cam?” My heart began racing... I told him it was all here, did they find the lifters bad? I pull the box of them out all numbered. He shows me that over time the tops flatten and he says they should have a slight peak on them so they spin as the cam lobs lift and shows me w/ a ruler. I point blank ask “your sure Toyota lifters are the same?” He says “they’re all like that.” I didn’t think to flip through my book that was there on the counter. After I left, I asked a few and I’ve been told that’s wrong. The young guy who’s doing most of the actual hands on work, answers the phone later when I call and says “they should have a 7* peak, they may look flat to your eye but per Toyota that’s how they’re made even tho they’re called flat tappet.” So anyone able to verify? @HemiAlex or @evilorgoodtwin had you bought new lifters?
Regarding the keyway, the other machinist who does tool and die would be the one cutting a new one 180* out. So is it really that necessary to fill the sheared original keyway? I’m feeling it’s not, I’ve got it in my head from reading long ago that less heat added to the snout the better for the hardened metal? @65swb45, Mark do you have any opinion? Pretty sure you and I talked long ago about my sheared keyway and then you had said brazing if anything, was the least invasive way to weld on that metal?
I’ve yet to get a quote oddly, even tho they’ve begun work, when I called yesterday I told them I need something so far.
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I don't see a reason to fill the existing keyway if you're going to use that crank. I 100% agree with machining a new one if you can make it work 180 out. Any further mucking around (welding/brazing) will not improve the crank. Even with 2 keyways the HB is supported/making contact what 90% of the way round?
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #2,646
Thank you. That’s how I see it too.
Great thread. Jim's advice about not over inserting the brass oiler nipple on the cam gears is worth pointing out to the assembler.
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #2,648
G, I’m the assembler or will be once the machine shop is done w/ their part. Point was taken long ago. I’ve never even removed it from the timing plate. There’s no reason to.
I did get new lifters and a new melling cam. My cam was completely flat tho. I’ll send you my spreadsheet if I put it in drop box the last time we talked. I had money to spend at the time. I don’t remember either being crazy expensive but every dollar adds up when you don’t have money (my current situation so I’m oh so familiar).
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #2,650
I have your list, no biggie to send again. Do you recall the lifters having a peak? I’m really only curious at this point. I don’t plan on buying new lifters or a cam.
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
New lifters are not flat they wear in thats why you don't mix match lifters when reassembling
You can get reground lifters and new American (melling) Cam for about $250-ish. New Joint Fuji lifters (OEM) are about $16 each.
Ask your machinist about the regrounds. You're doing all this work kinda wrong place to budget since cam and lifters are known wear spots with modern low-zddp oils...
Ask your machinist about the regrounds. You're doing all this work kinda wrong place to budget since cam and lifters are known wear spots with modern low-zddp oils...
tmxmotorsports
SILVER Star
I agree if it was me i would replace the lifters and camshaft i do also know your on a budget but now is the time maybe hold off on reassembly until ypu can afford a new cam and lifters not sure if you are getting the shop to install it knowing you i doubt it lol
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #2,656
It wouldn’t be oem. Most likely Melling or whatever that brand is.aren't OEM camshafts kind of scarce?
I believe the Melling is an OEM stock replacement, but not sure MC803 Either way, Japanese made or American, it's quality. A lot of people get regrinds from Delta Cam. Delta Camshaft
DickM
SILVER Star
The first page of this thread has some really good cam info on it. The rest is me problem solving fuel issues.
forum.ih8mud.com
2FE Build Opinions Needed
I have started my 2FE build to go into an '84 FJ 60. The truck was purchased with motor issues which turned out to be a busted ring banging around in the #5 cylinder. I found a 3FE in Steamboat Springs with almost everything with it.(Including a set of mandrel bent headers which I will use)...
forum.ih8mud.com
NeverGiveUpYota
Dare me.
- Thread starter
- #2,659
Read a bunch a bit ago and was again reading the last page this AM before work. It got me doing some research on regrinding my lifters but I presume if I do that then I’ll need to do the cam too. Another person just suggested I buy one lifter, compare it to mine then provide it to a local shop to go by. Idk, I can’t rush any of this, too poor.The first page of this thread has some really good cam info on it. The rest is me problem solving fuel issues.
2FE Build Opinions Needed
I have started my 2FE build to go into an '84 FJ 60. The truck was purchased with motor issues which turned out to be a busted ring banging around in the #5 cylinder. I found a 3FE in Steamboat Springs with almost everything with it.(Including a set of mandrel bent headers which I will use)...
Yota, I'm glad you're building it yourself. You're smart enough to ask questions instead of assumming. I highly recommend buying new lifters and a new cam (or regrind yours). This isn't the place to save money. If you can't afford it right now, wait to assemble the valve train until you can. You can still build up the crank, rods, pistons, head. Plenty of work to keep you busy for a few weeks.
