2FE Build Opinions Needed (2 Viewers)

[DickM]

I have started my 2FE build to go into an '84 FJ 60.

The truck was purchased with motor issues which turned out to be a busted ring banging around in the #5 cylinder. I found a 3FE in Steamboat Springs with almost everything with it.(Including a set of mandrel bent headers which I will use) Both motors are torn apart, and the 2F block and 3FE head are at the machinist in line for work to be done soon. Here is what is planned (based on all those that have gone before:

Block will be resurfaced enough to clean it up. Cylinders will be bored .020 to match what #5 needs. New pistons and rings. New cam bearings. New oil gallery plugs, cam plug, freeze plugs

Head will be resurfaced and get Chevy valves and associated hardware. Oil galley plug repair. Rocker assembly cleaned and rocker arms resurfaced.

Crank is within spec, so it will be polished only. New main and rod bearings. Rod bores checked and resized as needed.

Flywheel resurfaced and balanced along with the rest of the motor.

Camshaft and lifters to Delta for a regrind. New solid cam gear.

Injectors cleaned.

I need your help/opinions on the compression/cam grind decision, and on anything else I have missed. I want to be able to use regular gas, so I was thinking a 9.0 CR with the KC 859 262 duration cam. Delta is worried about idle and vacuum at altitude(6500) where I live, but the truck will spend a lot of it's time lower down in the desert. I really want good power on the 2 lane roads we will be traveling as this will not be a hard core wheeling truck but a "expedition"/camping one.

Is this the right combo for this build? Different cam? More motor work? Throttle body bore? As usual, bang for the buck is important. Thanks for the help-the info here is unbelievable!

 

[RockDoc]

I run the KC859 cam along with a head chamber volume of 75cc (8.6:1 with stock bore) and it runs fine on regular gas. I wouldn't bother boring the throttle body, though I did on mine.

 

[60Works]

Sorry, no advice, but a related question:

I'm curious if there is a consensus from people who've done this mod about which accessory mounts to use? Is it best to mount the alt, hyd pump, air pump, and AC comp in the positions of a 60 or a 62?

Or is it best determined by whether your rig started as a 60 or a 62?

I've always thought Mr. T was an idiot to change the 60. The 62 has the hyd on the opposite side of the steering, the alt on the opposite side of the battery and its down low where you can't get to it. Why would Toyota do this?

 

[DickM]

My plan is to keep everything as it was in the 60 as it all hangs on the 2F block. I will remove the smog pump as I am desmogging, and replace it with a second alternater to power a 2nd battery for winch/fridge/etc.. We'll see how it all works.

Thanks RockDoc your info has been a great help. I wasn't exactly sure where you had ended up with the compression and cylinder volume-I got a little lost in the dynamic vs static compression info.

 

[jlhollowx13]

My plan is to keep everything as it was in the 60 as it all hangs on the 2F block. I will remove the smog pump as I am desmogging, and replace it with a second alternater to power a 2nd battery for winch/fridge/etc.. We'll see how it all works.

Thanks RockDoc your info has been a great help. I wasn't exactly sure where you had ended up with the compression and cylinder volume-I got a little lost in the dynamic vs static compression info.

that extra alternator sounds interesting.... if it works out and your ever in the gunnison area you will have to stop by and let me check it out. i plan to desmog my fj60 and could do this, just not sure if i should do it now while the parts and are good and resell or wait until something breaks.....

 

[Yspen]

The answer ( for me ) lies in the Delta 250s cam

This cam is very similar to stock . The intake timing is similar to a 2F cam , the exh timing is similar to 3F cam . The duration at 0.050 = 215* ( compared to stock that is 189* ) . The overlap is practically the same as stock ( 31 vs 32 ) .
The duration @0.050" is slightly lower than the 262 RV camshaft but advertised duration is a lot lower . Thus the valve will lift quickly and close quickly as it does in OEM . The low overlap will also mean that vacuum in the manifold remains high-ish .
This cam will thus give the same torque features of a stock 2F but due to the longer duration @ 0.050 is will rev comfortably above 3000rpm .
Jim's concern was that this cam will require premium gas due to the low overlap in the high compression engine . He himself uses a MC803 cam in his 4,5l overbore 2F with 8.8:1 compression .
He says :

It is a good choice, especially with your higher compression and good gas. Should run strong, and not fall on it's face at 3000rpm.

Delta cams in the US answered my question to them :

correct, your engine will be creating the torque rather than your foot to the floor and relying on momentum.

Another thing I added to my build was the ARP conrod bolts - maybe overkill ( but I like overkill )

 

[DickM]

Yspen, Thanks for the input (and the PM). The 250s is the grind that Delta recommended to me based, as you know, primarily on my altitude(they said I was too high?) and on some idle and vacuum problems with another customer using the 262 grind at altitude.

So, what octane gas makes your motor happy, and what was you target compression?

It seems that the consensus on MUD is the 250s or 262 Delta grind, or the Melling MC803 that JimC has used. Not much input on anything else.

 

[Yspen]

We only have one grade of petrol and it runs well with it ( 95 octane at coast and 93 at altitude ) . My compression prior to fitting efi was 9,5 and all was well . When I fitted the efi ( and new head ) I kept the compression stock - for a brief moment I considered a turbo so was reluctant to raise compression .
I researched the cam at length and have a very long writeup that I posted at my local club : here it is - hope it helps to make up your mind

Over the last three months I have studied the topic intensely and have stumbled across numerous approaches to modifying the 2F cam for performance .

The 2F with is longer conrod and bigger displacement ( than 3F ) has huge untapped potential . In stock form the 2F has more torque than the 2H ( or any of the era's N/A diesels ) at 1800rpm .
The trick is to retain that torque but wake up the engine so it can run happily on the freeway and in the dunes .

The US approach is to fit a RV cam . In studying what a RV cam is I concluded that RV stands for " Real variable" - every cam grinders' RV cam varies

With camshafts there are a few variables ( just the basics ):
Duration : the length of time the valve is open ( measured in degrees)
lift : the height the valve gets lifted off the seat
overlap : the amount that both valves are open at the same time
Lobe seperation angle : angle of the inlet / outlet lobes to each other .

All these variables have an influence on each other - changing one will change the other as well
Each variable will gives the engine a particular characteristic and changing it affects the engine .
Eg . Increasing duration = will affect overlap ( most of the time ) , increases lift and will raise the HP at top end at the expense of low down torque.
Overlap is the main thing affecting manifold vacuum .
From the book: www.4x4books.com/toyown.htm
"Manifold vacuum is crucial in truck pulling power , proper combustion , and fuel economy . In effect an automotive type gasoline engine is a vacuum pump . Your trucks engine operating cycle begins with the vacuum characteristics of the intake stroke . If you plan serious rock crawling and trailer pulling , or want low speed economy and good throttle response , high manifold vacuum will be on top of your priority list."

With all these variables it becomes very tricky if you want to fit a aftermarket cam as it may render the engine unusable for your application .

Lets look at the cams out there :
Stock cam has very low duration and overlap . Gives a engine with decent torque . No need for a lot of overlap as the Compression ratio is very low and the engine can be used with low octane fuel .
Stock 2F
250 duration
duration @ 0.050 = 189
32 degrees overlap
Int 17-53
ex 55-15
valve lift 0.377
L/C 108

3F stock ( it is exactly the same cam as the 2F BUT advanced 5 degrees )
250 duration
duration @ 0.050 = 189
32 overlap
INt 22-48
EX 60-10
valve lift 0.377

Performance
The idea with the performance cam is that with a rebuild the compression gets raised ( one way of increasing HP ) , a branch gets fitted ( to help scavenging / airflow ) , ignition gets improved ( electronic ignition ) etc .
With these changes the cam also needs to be altered . Just fitting a performance cam will render little if the engine is not matched to it . Adding a performance cam in combination with the other modifications will give the required results .
To quote Mark Whatley :
Quote: In an otherwise stock engine you will not notice much power improvement. You'll see a little. In a powerplant with raised compression, increased carburation and intake flow and improved exhaust, it will run like a scalded ape.
The most common perfomance cam in the US market is the RV cam made by Man-a-fre .
Specs of the Man-a-fre cam : RV Cam is 260 deg duration, .420" lift, 42 deg overlap, Lobe Centers @ 109, Clearance INT ..014" EXH .016".
Rainer ,a member of LCCSA living in Namibia fitted this cam in a 3F and had this to say :
Quote: There is definitely a difference, the cam does not lose to much bottom end torque, and it revs nicely up to 4500.

Close variables on it is the Mark Whatley cam .
Mark Whatley himself : Quote: A camshaft with a duration at .050 of about 210 to 217 and a lift in the area of .240-245 wil produce a notable improvement in mid range and high rpm power. At the sacrifice of a small amount of peak bottom end power (below 1000 rpm).
This grind has the following specs
Perf 262 grind
Duration intake 262
Duration exhaust 267
Duration @ 0.050 is 217
Intakes opens 24, closes 59
Exhaust opens 62closes 34
58* overlap
cam rise .284 L/C 108 degrees ( gives 0.430" valve lift )
Lash intake .014 exhaust .014

From the book www.4x4books.com/toyown.htm :
" For the F and 2F inline OHV sixes with the long stroke , its easy to extract serious stump pulling power . A mechanical liefter camshaft of approximately 0.428" gross lift and 260* total duration will work well. Assuming that your 2F has a reasonable compression ratio ( no more than 9,2:1 ) , the idle with this kind of camshaft is smooth , and your engine can develop strong low-end torque plus respectable mid-range ( 2000-3500rpm) HP. Expect this type of camshaft grind to flatten its power abruptly around 4200rpm "

What will this cam give you ?
Higher compression ratio needs the longer duration and overlap to bleed off the extra pressure . Extra lift and duration will mean a lot more power in the high rpm range - but a bit of low end power is lost . The bigger overlap will increase scavenging effect as the inertia of the airflow draws air out of the chamber .
So if you want to have a 2F that can handle the dunes and be a great freeway car ( good throttle response between 2200 - 3500rpm ) then this is for you .

Torque is King
Downey ( not operational any more ) in the US had two cams to offer :
1. Torquer cam : 214 duration @ 0.050
2. HP cam : 224 duration @ 0.050

The HP cam has a huge duration and I would never consider something like that as you would need to really rev the engine to get any HP out of it .
The torquer cam apparently gave great torque and still could rev up to 3000rpm comfortably . In the absense of other specs I cannot analise it properly and since the company went bust it does not really matter but it was a cam worth fitting IMO .

After numerous e-mails between me and Jim Chenoweth I came to the conclusion that if you want a real "torquer" cam you should keep the overlap low , keep the duration as close to stock as possible .
A lot of the "torquer" cams out there do give torque but you have to go up in the rev range to achieve the promised torque . ( some claim the RV cam by Man-a-fre to be a real torquer but you get that torque from 2200 rpm onwards - too late IMO ) . The stock 2F has peak torque at only 1800rpm .
So if you want a torquer stay with stock or go for the MC803 cam . It is a Melling aftermarket cam ( apparently of better metal than OEM ) and is identical to stock but its LSA is 112* and not 108* . This camshaft will however fall flat on its face at 3000rpm .
A real crawler but not great in the dunes .

Melling 803 camshaft : ( as per their technical dept )
MC803 duration @.050 int. 189, exh. 189
Valve lift .379int. .379exh.
Lobe centers 112deg. int. 112deg exh.

Compromise
The challenge is to get a cam that will give you the low down torque of the stock 2F but still rev up to 4000rpm for that occational sortie in the dunes and to make it a pleasant DD on the freeway.

The answer ( for me ) I have discovered lies in a cam that Delta in the US grinds .
Perf 250 S grind
Duration intake 250
Duration exhaust 254
Intakes opens 17, closes 53
Exhaust opens 60 closes 14
cam rise .255 L/C 108 degrees ( eq valve lift of 0.383)
Lash intake .014 exhaust .014
This cam is very similar to stock . The intake timing is similar to a 2F cam , the exh timing is similar to 3F cam . The duration at 0.050 = 215* ( compared to stock that is 189* ) . The overlap is practically the same as stock ( 31 vs 32 ) .
The duration @0.050" is slightly lower than the 262 RV camshaft but advertised duration is a lot lower . Thus the valve will lift quickly and close quickly as it does in OEM . The low overlap will also mean that vacuum in the manifold remains high .
This cam will thus give the same torque features of a stock 2F but due to the longer duration @ 0.050 is will rev comfortably above 3000rpm .
Jim's concern was that this cam will require premium gas due to the low overlap in the high compression engine ( in the US premium petrol of octane above 91 is 20cents / liter more expensive ). He himself uses a MC803 cam in his 4,5l overbore 2F with 8.8:1 compression . In SA and Europe the regular octane is 95 thus making it usable in SA .
He says :
Quote: It is a good choice, especially with your higher compression and good gas. Should run strong, and not fall on it's face at 3000rpm. Delta cams in the US answered my question to them :
Quote: correct, your engine will be creating the torque rather than your foot to the floor and relying on momentum.




Here are more cams options that I found on the net .

Isky cams in California offer these grinds
Isky Z99+E3 grind
258 duration
42* overlap
INT 21-57
ex 57-21
lift 425

Isky z99-005 grind
260 duration
50 * overlap
Int 25-55
ex 55-25
lift 406

Crow cams in Australia
Adv duration 266
duration @0.050 is 208
int 24 - 62
ex 64 - 22
L/C110*
valve lift 0.420
46* overlap

I struggled a lot to get decent info on the net . The problem is that aftermarket cams are usually made for "racers" or " dragsters" , not for off road 4x4 cars . Guys usually seek HP and look for a rough idle to sound cool . I wanted a slow car that does not run above 4000rpm - these guys usually start at 4000rpm .
I found a site that is dedicated to inline 6 cylinder cars like the 2F and they have a lot of valuable info that is easily understood by a appy like me :
www.classicinlines.com...ectCam.asp

 

[thetoyotaman]

Nicely written. Now that you've been running it for awhile, any comparisons on fuel consumption and changes in vacuum compared to stock?

 

[gregnash]

Wow... thanks for all the good information. This is definitely getting subb'd to.

 

[Spike Strip]

Subscribed.

 

[DickM]

So, after bugging MarkW and Yspen, reading a bunch of info on the Web, talking to another cam grinder recommended by my machine shop and agonizing over the decision for some weeks , I decided on the KC859 grind from Delta. I really feel it will work best for me with the fuel injection and the intended use of the truck. The block ended up being bored .020 over, head decked .020, and I paid for some port/polish work. The rest of the work was as outlined in the OP.

Here is the progress to date. Most of the other parts and pieces are cleaned and/or painted, so hopefully progress will pick-up some.

 

[cruiserbrandon]

We only have one grade of petrol and it runs well with it ( 95 octane at coast and 93 at altitude ) . My compression prior to fitting efi was 9,5 and all was well . When I fitted the efi ( and new head ) I kept the compression stock - for a brief moment I considered a turbo so was reluctant to raise compression .
I researched the cam at length and have a very long writeup that I posted at my local club : here it is - hope it helps to make up your mind

Over the last three months I have studied the topic intensely and have stumbled across numerous approaches to modifying the 2F cam for performance .

The 2F with is longer conrod and bigger displacement ( than 3F ) has huge untapped potential . In stock form the 2F has more torque than the 2H ( or any of the era's N/A diesels ) at 1800rpm .
The trick is to retain that torque but wake up the engine so it can run happily on the freeway and in the dunes .

The US approach is to fit a RV cam . In studying what a RV cam is I concluded that RV stands for " Real variable" - every cam grinders' RV cam varies

With camshafts there are a few variables ( just the basics ):
Duration : the length of time the valve is open ( measured in degrees)
lift : the height the valve gets lifted off the seat
overlap : the amount that both valves are open at the same time
Lobe seperation angle : angle of the inlet / outlet lobes to each other .

All these variables have an influence on each other - changing one will change the other as well
Each variable will gives the engine a particular characteristic and changing it affects the engine .
Eg . Increasing duration = will affect overlap ( most of the time ) , increases lift and will raise the HP at top end at the expense of low down torque.
Overlap is the main thing affecting manifold vacuum .
From the book: www.4x4books.com/toyown.htm
"Manifold vacuum is crucial in truck pulling power , proper combustion , and fuel economy . In effect an automotive type gasoline engine is a vacuum pump . Your trucks engine operating cycle begins with the vacuum characteristics of the intake stroke . If you plan serious rock crawling and trailer pulling , or want low speed economy and good throttle response , high manifold vacuum will be on top of your priority list."

With all these variables it becomes very tricky if you want to fit a aftermarket cam as it may render the engine unusable for your application .

Lets look at the cams out there :
Stock cam has very low duration and overlap . Gives a engine with decent torque . No need for a lot of overlap as the Compression ratio is very low and the engine can be used with low octane fuel .
Stock 2F
250 duration
duration @ 0.050 = 189
32 degrees overlap
Int 17-53
ex 55-15
valve lift 0.377
L/C 108

3F stock ( it is exactly the same cam as the 2F BUT advanced 5 degrees )
250 duration
duration @ 0.050 = 189
32 overlap
INt 22-48
EX 60-10
valve lift 0.377

Performance
The idea with the performance cam is that with a rebuild the compression gets raised ( one way of increasing HP ) , a branch gets fitted ( to help scavenging / airflow ) , ignition gets improved ( electronic ignition ) etc .
With these changes the cam also needs to be altered . Just fitting a performance cam will render little if the engine is not matched to it . Adding a performance cam in combination with the other modifications will give the required results .
To quote Mark Whatley :
Quote: In an otherwise stock engine you will not notice much power improvement. You'll see a little. In a powerplant with raised compression, increased carburation and intake flow and improved exhaust, it will run like a scalded ape.
The most common perfomance cam in the US market is the RV cam made by Man-a-fre .
Specs of the Man-a-fre cam : RV Cam is 260 deg duration, .420" lift, 42 deg overlap, Lobe Centers @ 109, Clearance INT ..014" EXH .016".
Rainer ,a member of LCCSA living in Namibia fitted this cam in a 3F and had this to say :
Quote: There is definitely a difference, the cam does not lose to much bottom end torque, and it revs nicely up to 4500.

Close variables on it is the Mark Whatley cam .
Mark Whatley himself : Quote: A camshaft with a duration at .050 of about 210 to 217 and a lift in the area of .240-245 wil produce a notable improvement in mid range and high rpm power. At the sacrifice of a small amount of peak bottom end power (below 1000 rpm).
This grind has the following specs
Perf 262 grind
Duration intake 262
Duration exhaust 267
Duration @ 0.050 is 217
Intakes opens 24, closes 59
Exhaust opens 62closes 34
58* overlap
cam rise .284 L/C 108 degrees ( gives 0.430" valve lift )
Lash intake .014 exhaust .014

From the book www.4x4books.com/toyown.htm :
" For the F and 2F inline OHV sixes with the long stroke , its easy to extract serious stump pulling power . A mechanical liefter camshaft of approximately 0.428" gross lift and 260* total duration will work well. Assuming that your 2F has a reasonable compression ratio ( no more than 9,2:1 ) , the idle with this kind of camshaft is smooth , and your engine can develop strong low-end torque plus respectable mid-range ( 2000-3500rpm) HP. Expect this type of camshaft grind to flatten its power abruptly around 4200rpm "

What will this cam give you ?
Higher compression ratio needs the longer duration and overlap to bleed off the extra pressure . Extra lift and duration will mean a lot more power in the high rpm range - but a bit of low end power is lost . The bigger overlap will increase scavenging effect as the inertia of the airflow draws air out of the chamber .
So if you want to have a 2F that can handle the dunes and be a great freeway car ( good throttle response between 2200 - 3500rpm ) then this is for you .

Torque is King
Downey ( not operational any more ) in the US had two cams to offer :
1. Torquer cam : 214 duration @ 0.050
2. HP cam : 224 duration @ 0.050

The HP cam has a huge duration and I would never consider something like that as you would need to really rev the engine to get any HP out of it .
The torquer cam apparently gave great torque and still could rev up to 3000rpm comfortably . In the absense of other specs I cannot analise it properly and since the company went bust it does not really matter but it was a cam worth fitting IMO .

After numerous e-mails between me and Jim Chenoweth I came to the conclusion that if you want a real "torquer" cam you should keep the overlap low , keep the duration as close to stock as possible .
A lot of the "torquer" cams out there do give torque but you have to go up in the rev range to achieve the promised torque . ( some claim the RV cam by Man-a-fre to be a real torquer but you get that torque from 2200 rpm onwards - too late IMO ) . The stock 2F has peak torque at only 1800rpm .
So if you want a torquer stay with stock or go for the MC803 cam . It is a Melling aftermarket cam ( apparently of better metal than OEM ) and is identical to stock but its LSA is 112* and not 108* . This camshaft will however fall flat on its face at 3000rpm .
A real crawler but not great in the dunes .

Melling 803 camshaft : ( as per their technical dept )
MC803 duration @.050 int. 189, exh. 189
Valve lift .379int. .379exh.
Lobe centers 112deg. int. 112deg exh.

Compromise
The challenge is to get a cam that will give you the low down torque of the stock 2F but still rev up to 4000rpm for that occational sortie in the dunes and to make it a pleasant DD on the freeway.

The answer ( for me ) I have discovered lies in a cam that Delta in the US grinds .
Perf 250 S grind
Duration intake 250
Duration exhaust 254
Intakes opens 17, closes 53
Exhaust opens 60 closes 14
cam rise .255 L/C 108 degrees ( eq valve lift of 0.383)
Lash intake .014 exhaust .014
This cam is very similar to stock . The intake timing is similar to a 2F cam , the exh timing is similar to 3F cam . The duration at 0.050 = 215* ( compared to stock that is 189* ) . The overlap is practically the same as stock ( 31 vs 32 ) .
The duration @0.050" is slightly lower than the 262 RV camshaft but advertised duration is a lot lower . Thus the valve will lift quickly and close quickly as it does in OEM . The low overlap will also mean that vacuum in the manifold remains high .
This cam will thus give the same torque features of a stock 2F but due to the longer duration @ 0.050 is will rev comfortably above 3000rpm .
Jim's concern was that this cam will require premium gas due to the low overlap in the high compression engine ( in the US premium petrol of octane above 91 is 20cents / liter more expensive ). He himself uses a MC803 cam in his 4,5l overbore 2F with 8.8:1 compression . In SA and Europe the regular octane is 95 thus making it usable in SA .
He says :
Quote: It is a good choice, especially with your higher compression and good gas. Should run strong, and not fall on it's face at 3000rpm. Delta cams in the US answered my question to them :
Quote: correct, your engine will be creating the torque rather than your foot to the floor and relying on momentum.




Here are more cams options that I found on the net .

Isky cams in California offer these grinds
Isky Z99+E3 grind
258 duration
42* overlap
INT 21-57
ex 57-21
lift 425

Isky z99-005 grind
260 duration
50 * overlap
Int 25-55
ex 55-25
lift 406

Crow cams in Australia
Adv duration 266
duration @0.050 is 208
int 24 - 62
ex 64 - 22
L/C110*
valve lift 0.420
46* overlap

I struggled a lot to get decent info on the net . The problem is that aftermarket cams are usually made for "racers" or " dragsters" , not for off road 4x4 cars . Guys usually seek HP and look for a rough idle to sound cool . I wanted a slow car that does not run above 4000rpm - these guys usually start at 4000rpm .
I found a site that is dedicated to inline 6 cylinder cars like the 2F and they have a lot of valuable info that is easily understood by a appy like me :
www.classicinlines.com...ectCam.asp

Awesome info here, subscribed

I have one question here though and that is altitude, quite a few comments where in here about how the higher duration cams will not like altitude but not much info on what certain cams will do at altitude and why. You obviously have a solid understanding of cams could you inform please?

 

[Yspen]

I have taken the car overland from Cape Town (Coast ) to Johannesburg ( 5700 ft elevation) and it performs well throughout . Vacuum was and has never been a problem .( The vacuum is lower than it was with the stock cam but still high not to be an issue ). I doubt that the KC859 grind will perform any different than the 250S grind at altitude .
The car has not suffered from worse fuel consumption - just pulls stronger throughout the rev range .

Only negative I have experienced is a louder tappet noise but it gets better ( softer ) after a while . Stiffer valve springs have helped as well as using Stock valve clearances ( not the clearance recommended by Delta ) .

 

[cruiserbrandon]

I have taken the car overland from Cape Town (Coast ) to Johannesburg ( 5700 ft elevation) and it performs well throughout . Vacuum was and has never been a problem .( The vacuum is lower than it was with the stock cam but still high not to be an issue ). I doubt that the KC859 grind will perform any different than the 250S grind at altitude .
The car has not suffered from worse fuel consumption - just pulls stronger throughout the rev range .

Only negative I have experienced is a louder tappet noise but it gets better ( softer ) after a while . Stiffer valve springs have helped as well as using Stock valve clearances ( not the clearance recommended by Delta ) .

Mine may see 10-12,000 ft on occasion.....see a problem with that?

 

[Yspen]

Sorry I cannot comment as I truly do not know .

Speculating :
Wider overlap = less vacuum
The overlap of the 250S cam is very near stock so it makes sense to me that it will not be affected but with the KC859 it might be an issue ( but only at idle )
My research on the net has indicated that only a cam of duration over 225-230 degress at 0.050" lift will be badly affected ( losing vacuum ) .
The 250S is 215 degrees and the KC859 is 217 degrees at 0.050".

If you have wider lobe separation then you maintain vacuum but these grinds all have the same lobe separation . ( the mechanical overlap of a 220 cam at 0.050" with lobe separation of 112* is the same as a 217 cam at 0.050" with lobe separation of 109* )

I would listen to what he guys at Delta has to say about their grind and their experience .

 

[cruiserbrandon]

So, after bugging MarkW and Yspen, reading a bunch of info on the Web, talking to another cam grinder recommended by my machine shop and agonizing over the decision for some weeks , I decided on the KC859 grind from Delta. I really feel it will work best for me with the fuel injection and the intended use of the truck. The block ended up being bored .020 over, head decked .020, and I paid for some port/polish work. The rest of the work was as outlined in the OP.

Here is the progress to date. Most of the other parts and pieces are cleaned and/or painted, so hopefully progress will pick-up some.

Sorry for jacking your thread!!!

 

[cruiserbrandon]

Sorry I cannot comment as I truly do not know .

Speculating :
Wider overlap = less vacuum
The overlap of the 250S cam is very near stock so it makes sense to me that it will not be affected but with the KC859 it might be an issue ( but only at idle )
My research on the net has indicated that only a cam of duration over 225-230 degress at 0.050" lift will be badly affected ( losing vacuum ) .
The 250S is 215 degrees and the KC859 is 217 degrees at 0.050".

If you have wider lobe separation then you maintain vacuum but these grinds all have the same lobe separation . ( the mechanical overlap of a 220 cam at 0.050" with lobe separation of 112* is the same as a 217 cam at 0.050" with lobe separation of 109* )

I would listen to what he guys at Delta has to say about their grind and their experience .

Thanks for the info, with the super low gearing I will have in the t-case Im not gonna worry about it too much if its just at idle, even running on 4 cylinders it would idle all day long with 150:1 crawl ratio. Maybe not well but it doesnt take much to keep moving with that much crawl ratio.

 

[DickM]

So, it seems like yesterday, but it has been 2 years.
Today the 2FE started, and ran like it stole something
One small leak before it fired up where I missed a copper gasket behind the cold start injector , all else was good, so no real drama in the process.
A little fuel starvation fuel surge at the end of the 20 minute, 2000 RPM burn in. I've got three good ideas to explore to fix it, so no panic(yet) on this.
I drove it. Okay, so I only jockeyed forward and back to get it into the garage, but I shifted, clutched and braked(all of which were rebuilt) so that counts for me.
Thanks to MUD for the help finally getting to this point, and for those of you who think your project will never end........you are right! But along the way you get days like today, do take heart. It's more than worth it.

 

[landcruiser80]

@DickM
Once you have driven it around a bunch post up what your economy is like. Interested to see what kind of a difference there is between the h55f and the a440f behind a 2fe.