Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (2 Viewers)

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Overbore :smokin: Add cam and EFI and you'll have a nice motor.

I've had great luck with the non-OEM rebuild parts like ITM bearings, pistons, etc. Any other brand bearings will be fine as well, Clevite, Mahle, etc. What's important is making sure all the parts are the right sizes and fit together correctly.
I used some Mahle gaskets last summer. Timing cover, front main, and water pump. They all started leaking immediately. I thought I’d save a few bucks and buy the kit they sell. All the OEM and Felpro gaskets I used are working really well.

I will say, reading your thread makes me feel like I can do anything.
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I used some Mahle gaskets last summer. Timing cover, front main, and water pump. They all started leaking immediately. I thought I’d save a few bucks and buy the kit they sell. All the OEM and Felpro gaskets I used are working really well.

Those are all paper and cork. Sounds like installer error. The cork ones can be tricky.
 
Those are all paper and cork. Sounds like installer error. The cork ones can be tricky.
The cork one was about half the thickness of the OEM. I think it just didnt sit right and the original torque specs were off for that gasket. The water pump is aftermarket so it could be that which caused the immediate leak. The front main is surprising to me. It’s leaking through the HB nut and is being slung by the HB. It’s very slow, however. I replaced all the bolts and studs with Toyota OEM. I certainly followed the proper order of operations for installation. However, I will admit it was my first time doing all that on a 2f.
 
My first one leaked from all the cork gaskets too and they were all OEM. Since then I’ve learned it’s more about the way sealants are used then the gasket “quality” and have had good success on cork gaskets since then.
 
My first one leaked from all the cork gaskets too and they were all OEM. Since then I’ve learned it’s more about the way sealants are used then the gasket “quality” and have had good success on cork gaskets since then.
Care to elaborate? I’d love to hear your advice. I’ll peobably tear back into it soon enough. How do you get a torque wrench to work properly behind the HB? Sorry to hijack your thread, F.
 
Care to elaborate? I’d love to hear your advice. I’ll peobably tear back into it soon enough. How do you get a torque wrench to work properly behind the HB? Sorry to hijack your thread, F.
Same here.
 
Pilot bearing is out. Wasted a fair amount of time trying to do it w/ wet newspaper (20 mins maybe) till I called Napa and rented the puller and slide hammer. Found the jaws too big to fit. So before commencing hack rented tool, I did pulled the waded paper out and tried my grease gun as a guy in the store said always worked for him. But the grease just squished out the inner rim of the bearing.
Trimmed the inner mating surface of the jaws so as not to compromise the gripping edges and it slid in slightly staggered to each other. Couple pills once I understood how to use the force (haha) and it popped right out.
Flywheel bolts are gonna be a chore. I get how to get them but I don’t want to round out the heads so I’m going easy. Impact wrench isn’t quite getting them. Long pipe and they’ll come. I do have the flywheel wedged. One is loose and gave each a few good steady pulls but stopping for now since it’s almost work time.

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How is the clutch? Going to re-use? Yep, neither grease or newspaper or anything else worked for me either until I got the slide hammer and found something the fit the pilot bearing.
 
How is the clutch? Going to re-use? Yep, neither grease or newspaper or anything else worked for me either until I got the slide hammer and found something the fit the pilot bearing.
This did it for me. I love this thing (thanks dad!). Simple and it freaking works. Used it to pull every seal and bearings I’ve replaced.

Felicity, now that you’re a master welder I bet you could fab something up like this for the future!
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This did it for me. I love this thing (thanks dad!). Simple and it freaking works. Used it to pull every seal and bearings I’ve replaced.

Felicity, now that you’re a master welder I bet you could fab something up like this for the future!View attachment 2004675
I definitely was thinking of just making something but now that the jaw puller will be mine... unless, I paint the jaws and see if they don’t notice when I bring the slide hammer back!

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They won’t notice! And it’ll help the next guy...I mean girl...I mean woman...LOL
 
This did it for me. I love this thing (thanks dad!). Simple and it freaking works. Used it to pull every seal and bearings I’ve replaced.

Felicity, now that you’re a master welder I bet you could fab something up like this for the future!View attachment 2004675
Can you show me an example of how you’d use that? I do have welding rod and a ball peen so I could make that easily.
 
I want to know also. Looks like a great tool. Stick it in and hammer it (out)
 
You should not need another puller, do not wast your $$$.
If you really wanted to get this the Snapon A78. It is the right tool and works as expected every time.

Get the flywheel resurfaced and get a new clutch. They are not expensive. Think I paid like 150 (rounded up) for an AISIN kit. Flywheel was about 78 resurfaced.
 
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Can you show me an example of how you’d use that? I do have welding rod and a ball peen so I could make that easily.
Since I don’t have a seal or bearing open to demonstrate, imagine the slot in my table saw motor is your pilot bearing. The hammer isn’t attached. Just use it to tap the tool and it pops the bearing out. The end of the tool has a little hook on it that acts like the jaws on your hammer puller. This thing was made by Matco many many decades ago. I like that there are no moving parts to fail on this thing. My only issue with it is having to be cautious not to let the hook gouge the surface of whatever I’m tapping out. Never had an issue though. I suppose it’s the same way with any tool, really. Don’t f***k up!
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Since I don’t have a seal or bearing open to demonstrate, imagine the slot in my table saw motor is your pilot bearing. The hammer isn’t attached. Just use it to tap the tool and it pops the bearing out. The end of the tool has a little hook on it that acts like the jaws on your hammer puller. This thing was made by Matco many many decades ago. I like that there are no moving parts to fail on this thing. My only issue with it is having to be cautious not to let the hook gouge the surface of whatever I’m tapping out. Never had an issue though. I suppose it’s the same way with any tool, really. Don’t f***k up!View attachment 2004788View attachment 2004789View attachment 2004790
Even just seeing in your hands; now I can tell how big to make it. Easy enough. @evilorgoodtwin, if I make one, I’ll make a second for you.
 

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