Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (3 Viewers)

[NeverGiveUpYota]

You guys are all the best. I tell my few close female friends ‘I am wealthy in men but most of them are married or live too damn far away!”

My decision is to get a compressor, borrow, steal, beg, buy one used and cheap close by and get the leak down accomplished. Even if I only get two pistons tested each day while my son runs amuck below me that’s my goal this week. I HAVE to get a definitive answer on my rings and once the heads off there goes that diagnostic check.
Thank you all for your words whether encouraging, domineering or simply being a sounding board and reiterating my own thoughts back at me, I appreciate you.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

My decision is to get a compressor, borrow, steal, beg, buy one used and cheap close by and get the leak down accomplished. Even if I only get two pistons tested each day while my son runs amuck below me that’s my goal this week.

Couple tips to know if you're on top dead center. I haven't tried with an F motor but can you stick a piece of wire in the spark plug hole and watch it be pushed up while you turn the crank? (I don't even remember the angle of the spark plugs right now.) Then start back down of course. Also when on TDC compression stroke this is the only place both rockers will rattle due to valve clearance. For leak down the piston doesn't have to be exact at TDC just so that both valves have clearance to the lifters.

Also - if the compressed air if forcing the piston down put the trans in 4th gear and put the parking brake on if it works.

Finally I wouldn't expect 100 PSI of air to show a crack in the head. Pressures in the cylinder that is forcing coolant around are way way higher than that. As @roadstr6 said the head is coming off anyway then you'll know.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

If you end up needing a 2F crank, I’ll send you one.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

If you end up needing a 2F crank, I’ll send you one.

Thanks Drew. Appreciate that.
And yes @Prairie Swamp those are good tips. Once I get a compressor knowing that info on the rocker arms helps. I was using a flathead in the plug hole too but found just looking w/ my flashlight was easy enough except 6 which I think was the only one that might have tested perfect.

 

[gregnash]

Other trick you can do to find TDC is if you have the compression tester, take the dial head off and attach a balloon to it. When the compression stroke happens the balloon will inflate. You will have to do it a couple times to see when it reaches max inflation and then starts to deflate on the exhaust stroke.

Also, F (@NeverGiveUpYota ) if you need a compression tester and an exhaust gas coolant tester, I have both and would be happen to ship them out to you.

 

[60Works]

Probably time to start searching for used 2F someone pulled to do a V8 swap. There's only one outcome which will result in this engine not being BER (beyond economical repair) and that is a failed head gasket. If the head is cracked its not really worth sourcing a replacement, just go for a running long block.

Given all the other problems with rust and its other mechanical issues, spending a lot of money to do an overhaul right isn't worth it.

Sorry, Yota.

 

[FJACS]

Back this up. Grab a beer and take a break. I know you don’t need more to think about, but in an effort to be thorough and not shotgun parts at an unknown issue let’s eliminate the easy stuff.

Lots of folks jumping straight to “pull the head”. Likely this is where you’re headed, (pun intended) but first I’d suggest you pressure test the oil cooler/warmer. A cooler with a leak in it will certainly mix oil and coolant. Some hardware store plumbing fittings and a schraeder valve and you could easily test this.

Next up - since the compression test results were wacky and your initial leakdown was showing full leak - remove the rocker assembly. All valves should now closed all the time. Whack each valve a few times with a rubber mallet. Make sure they’re moving freely.

Put the truck in gear and redo the leakdown test making sure the built in regulator on the compressor is wide open and the regulator on the leakdown tester is determining the air pressure. Since the rocker assembly is off, it doesn’t matter if the cylinder is at TDC, BDC or halfway through the stroke. All the valves are closed.

If the leakdown test now reveals a cylinder with a higher amount of leakage, you now know where to focus your examinations for the next steps.

 

[FJACS]

Probably time to start searching for used 2F someone pulled to do a V8 swap. There's only one outcome which will result in this engine not being BER (beyond economical repair) and that is a failed head gasket. If the head is cracked its not really worth sourcing a replacement, just go for a running long block.

Given all the other problems with rust and its other mechanical issues, spending a lot of money to do an overhaul right isn't worth it.

Sorry, Yota.

Also, I think this is the wise approach. Top off your fluids, keep regular watch on them and drive the truck. Watch Craigslist or Mud for a running 2f. Its much easier to keep your truck mobile and work on an extra drivetrain on the side. Minimizes downtime.

Also, if you find a decent donor motor, don’t rebuild the bottom end “just because”. They rarely need it. Get the head done, replace the water pump, reseal the engine and install it in your truck.

 

[roadstr6]

Back this up. Grab a beer and take a break. I know you don’t need more to think about, but in an effort to be thorough and not shotgun parts at an unknown issue let’s eliminate the easy stuff.

Lots of folks jumping straight to “pull the head”. Likely this is where you’re headed, (pun intended) but first I’d suggest you pressure test the oil cooler/warmer. A cooler with a leak in it will certainly mix oil and coolant. Some hardware store plumbing fittings and a schraeder valve and you could easily test this.

Next up - since the compression test results were wacky and your initial leakdown was showing full leak - remove the rocker assembly. All valves should now closed all the time. Whack each valve a few times with a rubber mallet. Make sure they’re moving freely.

Put the truck in gear and redo the leakdown test making sure the built in regulator on the compressor is wide open and the regulator on the leakdown tester is determining the air pressure. Since the rocker assembly is off, it doesn’t matter if the cylinder is at TDC, BDC or halfway through the stroke. All the valves are closed.

If the leakdown test now reveals a cylinder with a higher amount of leakage, you now know where to focus your examinations for the next steps.

Hmmm....Oil cooler. I forgot about that. I think you have provided some sound advice. Also the rocker assembly removal is a worthwhile work-around for leakdown testing. Good job!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I’m going to pickup an air compressor for $60 tomorrow. It runs and guy was very cool. He’s had it 15 years. Nice old Rand Ingersoll and it’s oy 15 mins from me woot!. And got the garage much more and organised so I have better working space.
You guys are the best. Thank you Erik for your tips!

 

[Prairie Swamp]

NP take your time and post up the results.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

NP take your time and post up the results.

Number two Eric, thank you too!

 

[FJACS]

To test the cooler you don’t need anything complex. I usually test heater cores and stuff like that with whatever assorted plastic irrigation cap fittings I have. Drill a hole in one to accept a threaded schraeder tire valve $1? Or less at the parts store.

-Leave the coolant hoses on the cooler itself, disconnect the hose ends from the block.
- Use a shop vac to suck the residual coolant out of the cooler through one of the hoses.
- Use a cap fitting to plug one hose. Use the hose clamp to secure it.
- Use a fitting with the valve on the other hose. Clamp it in place.
- Pressurize to 20psi.
- Use dish soap and water mix to make sure the the 4! hose fittings (hose ends at the oil cooler and ends you just capped) aren’t leaking air.

Provided there are no air leaks in the hose fittings, it should hold pressure overnight.

I found a photo on the Internet of a similar setup. The gauge isn’t necessarily, you can use a tire inflator with a guage or tire pressure gauge.

https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Matthew_Buns/publication/330113848/figure/fig2/AS:710992463929355@1546525221933/Vacuum-Gauge-and-Schrader-Valve-attacked-to-PVC-threaded-caps-A-simple-and-cheap-bicycle.jpg

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

To test the cooler you don’t need anything complex. I usually test heater cores and stuff like that with whatever assorted plastic irrigation cap fittings I have. Drill a hole in one to accept a threaded schraeder tire valve $1? Or less at the parts store.

-Leave the coolant hoses on the cooler itself, disconnect the hose ends from the block.
- Use a shop vac to suck the residual coolant out of the cooler through one of the hoses.
- Use a cap fitting to plug one hose. Use the hose clamp to secure it.
- Use a fitting with the valve on the other hose. Clamp it in place.
- Pressurize to 20psi.
- Use dish soap and water mix to make sure the the 4! hose fittings (hose ends at the oil cooler and ends you just capped) aren’t leaking air.

Provided there are no air leaks in the hose fittings, it should hold pressure overnight.

I found a photo on the Internet of a similar setup. The gauge isn’t necessarily, you can use a tire inflator with a guage or tire pressure gauge.

https://www.researchgate.net/profile/Matthew_Buns/publication/330113848/figure/fig2/AS:710992463929355@1546525221933/Vacuum-Gauge-and-Schrader-Valve-attacked-to-PVC-threaded-caps-A-simple-and-cheap-bicycle.jpg

I was just able to really read this and that makes sense. Thanks again Erik for the detailed explanation and the photo. You rock!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Picked up this old beast today. It’s a hybrid half Sears 20g and half Rand 5hp. Needs a bit of attention to a leak at one connection, a new three prong plug wired on, casters possibly, a cleaning and I’ll be good to go. Watched it run and come up to pressure even w/ that crappy plug!

 

[FJACS]

Did you drain the oil from the pump before you carried it sideways? If not, leave it upright for at least 24hr before you try to run it. And turn the pump by hand a few revolutions before you hit it with power.

And even tho you saw it run - i’d still probably check the oil level and cleanliness. Change it if needed. It’s less than a quart...

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Did you drain the oil from the pump before you carried it sideways? If not, leave it upright for at least 24hr before you try to run it. And turn the pump by hand a few revolutions before you hit it with power.

And even tho you saw it run - i’d still probably check the oil level and cleanliness. Change it if needed. It’s less than a quart...

No he didn’t say anything about draining it before we put it in the trunk. He did say to open the drain after running it each time. I pulled it out and set it on the creeper and put it in the garage. I’ve not run it here. Plug is too darn ugly for me to stick in my outlet. I’ll heed your suggestion of spin it before powering up. Thank you!

 

[Prairie Swamp]

Open the drain on the air tank before each use to let the water out.

It has an oil sump just like an engine. Should be a dipstick or sight glass. If the oil is dark change it. Get compressor oil at Napa or wherever.

That looks like a beast of a motor for that little tank.

 

[FJACS]

As long as it spins over freely by hand you’re good. Carrying it sideways might have allowed some of the oil in the bottom to migrate into the cylinder - ideally you’d want that to drain back out. Sitting upright overnight should be sufficient.

Looks like a good unit. It’s appears to be a compressor duty motor too.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

compressor duty motor too

Multitask you mean? I looked that term up you used. I see the difference. I could text the guy too for more info. This was the original tank but it rusted out so he swapped the sears tank on it but made it abundantly clear that it’s a 5hp motor as well.