Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (4 Viewers)

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By “rear brakes refreshed” you mean remove the wheels, rattle can the drums - put the wheels back on... right? :)
All new hardware. Have drums turned. Etc, etc.
 
I wish I could have just turned my stock rotors. I just can’t fathom carrying them in my rucksack while riding my bike 3 miles to the parts store in the dead of the Colorado winter. I’ve had enough already over the last EIGHT MONTHS. I just bought new ones shipped direct to my door.
 
I wish I could have just turned my stock rotors. I just can’t fathom carrying them in my rucksack while riding my bike 3 miles to the parts store in the dead of the Colorado winter. I’ve had enough already over the last EIGHT MONTHS. I just bought new ones shipped direct to my door.
Which did you go with?
 
A few years ago I bought a new set of rotors. I installed them, and took the old ones to be turned and stuck them on a shelf.

Next brake job I threw on the turned ones, and took the set I had just taken off to be turned and go on the shelf. Rinse & repeat. This way I never have down time during a brake job and can get the rotors turned at my convenience.
 
A few years ago I bought a new set of rotors. I installed them, and took the old ones to be turned and stuck them on a shelf.

Next brake job I threw on the turned ones, and took the set I had just taken off to be turned and go on the shelf. Rinse & repeat. This way I never have down time during a brake job and can get the rotors turned at my convenience.
You’re a genius.
 
Some of you saw this thread I began recently on my front driver shackle mount which I found to be less than ideal. Here’s the link for how I was assisted in fixing it.
Front Driver Shackle Mount

So far this is what I’ve done today on this delightfully cold started out at 9:30am, 16 degree day here in CT. Made a cardboard pattern of the old plate and noted a captured nut (8x1.25) in the crossmember so I kept that in as a potential anchor point. Then I jumped in and started cutting. I cut the metal plate longer and wider to compensate for any screw ups. Thanks to the welder who hooked me up w/ the metal he also told me to buy a Unibit to drill the holes. What an awesome little tool. Well worth the $20+ price!
I’ve yet to drill in the crossmember. I believe it makes sense to drill about where the X is in the pattern. If anyone or @FJACS or @cruisermatt have a better suggestion on strength of those points please tell me what you think?

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Unibit from Dewalt.

And I’ll be laying a bead of weld along the top of this crack in the frame... Thos too shall pass. :)

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Grabbed some grade 8 flanged bolts, lock washers and nuts from Ace. Test fit looks good.
In now (temp has gone up to a whopping 26) till work at 3pm.

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Nice prep work. Looks good. Burn it in. Also just be wary of keeping the hanger relatively straight with the frame. The straighter you get it the easier it will be to install the shackle/spring.
 
Thanks for all of the input. I have left a message requesting more pics of the rust. Will post if I get them. 12 k is steep.
Haha! I do have rust too but I’m attempting to tackle it myself, 12k would make me run the opposite direction!
 
We just did the same on mine. Used an oem gasket, ran FIPG around the bolt holes on the oil pan, stuck the gasket and let it sit for a while.

Raised the pan to the block, started the bolts and cinched it up. It didn't leak until the morning after. I let it drip for a few days, cinched it up again.

After two days and two more tightenings... I had no more leaks.

How bad did it leak? I lost a over a qt of oil in 5 minutes yesterday after the first real heat cycle and am about to pull my pan and do it over. I tightened it again and it’s still leaking pretty bad. My problem could also possibly be the timing cover gasket which I’m praying to the car gods that it’s not.

Sorry for the high-jack Felicity.
 
Ok so my plan is to keep the gasket tied by floss to the block. I can bend the arches down to add sealer, let it set up slightly tacky then push up, add two screws to hold the corners enough so it won’t pull away. Then I’ll add sealer on the outer arches, let that set up tacky then pull the corner screws, press up pan and add a few screws finger tight for say 30ish minutes then tighten further.
My reason for going this way and not gasket to pan then to block is that the maincaps have a C shaped inverted lip for the gasket to seat up into. IF I go the lesser route, gasket to pan then when pushing them together and up I will NOT be able to be 100% I’ve got the arch in the inverted C of the caps. Yes the cork is stiff enough that they’d tip and I’d know I wasn’t flush but once the pan is up I can’t get my hand inside to shift the gasket into the channel.
There you have it. Here’s a few photos while I get up the courage to add sealer. And since I DO have a brand new tube of FIPG, I’ll use it instead of the ultra black tube which is only 1/3 full.

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Ok, I think I get it...
 
So my word of wisdom that I’ve come to grasp... slow down. Think your steps through, multiple times and talk them out w/ someone who has done it before. Step away often for an hour (or days). Be sure to eat a protein filled meal prior to wrenching. Stay hydrated. Leave the beer/alcohol for after your all done for the day. Treat this truck like your queen. Cater to her. Be gentle like she is a little fragile plant. Use the right tools for the right job. Don’t always turn to power tools when you need to remove something off a seriously important surface. Always use simple hand strength before electricity. Heat is not always a first go to as well. The only person your in competition with is yourself. It’s not a race. This is what I’ve come to learn. Just saying.
 
So my word of wisdom that I’ve come to grasp... slow down. Think your steps through, multiple times and talk them out w/ someone who has done it before. Step away often for an hour (or days). Be sure to eat a protein filled meal prior to wrenching. Stay hydrated. Leave the beer/alcohol for after your all done for the day. Treat this truck like your queen. Cater to her. Be gentle like she is a little fragile plant. Use the right tools for the right job. Don’t always turn to power tools when you need to remove something off a seriously important surface. Always use simple hand strength before electricity. Heat is not always a first go to as well. The only person your in competition with is yourself. It’s not a race. This is what I’ve come to learn. Just saying.

Words to live by... My beer fridge is still full.
 
So my word of wisdom that I’ve come to grasp... slow down. Think your steps through, multiple times and talk them out w/ someone who has done it before. Step away often for an hour (or days). Be sure to eat a protein filled meal prior to wrenching. Stay hydrated. Leave the beer/alcohol for after your all done for the day. Treat this truck like your queen. Cater to her. Be gentle like she is a little fragile plant. Use the right tools for the right job. Don’t always turn to power tools when you need to remove something off a seriously important surface. Always use simple hand strength before electricity. Heat is not always a first go to as well. The only person your in competition with is yourself. It’s not a race. This is what I’ve come to learn. Just saying.

Man this is dead on. Slow and steady. Because of how slow I was going my cooling system work was one of the more tedious endeavors I had taken on up to that point. But in the end it worked and no leaks I can detect so worth every extra minute I spent on it. Folks might say why did it take so long. Don't care. In the end I am not doing it over so if it had taken a year, I am good with it. Stepping away from it for a bit was great for me. Gave time to gain new perspective and a much needed chance to lean on folks who had done it before. There was an urge to want to briskly move ahead to get finished and get the truck back on the road, especially during the re-assembly stage. I managed to still take my time and things turned out fine. Anyway....sorry to hijack here. Just thought it was good advice. Carry on.
 

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