Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (19 Viewers)

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I was able to get a little gap and pressed in a thin paint scraper and sprayed wd40 inside and just worked it around in a circle then whacked from the back side w/ a 2lb sledge. Somehow I didn’t need much swing and it just popped free.
 
@cps432 see now that’s creative. Adding that trick to the database for sure.
 
Great to see you making more progress on Bad Ass, Yota. Kudos to Trail Taylor for the TD suspension. Excellent vendor and Mud community member.

When you get to the rear axle, leave the drive shaft connected but unscrew the zerk in the slip yoke. This will help getting the axle back on the spring pack pin.

Set the diff side first, then the driver side. This gives you a longer 'lever' to set the axle on the spring pin.

Set both spring pins before attaching the driver's side shackle.

I've never needed a ratchet strap to set the pins when using these three tricks. The rear, passenger side fixed pin will be the hardest to remove. It gets the most salt.

For a person who spends as much time under her truck as you do, F, I would suggest investing in Harbor Freight's 12 Ton tractor jack stands. The strength rating is not necessary but they will provide you with much more stability and height.

Best,
 
Happy Holiday all my mud friends!

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Definetly no wrenching today before work!

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Dang. Has not been that cold here in 25 years. And you're not even in winter yet!

We're all sitting around freezing here at 55F! It might get to 53F tonight.
 
Dang. Has not been that cold here in 25 years. And you're not even in winter yet!

We're all sitting around freezing here at 55F! It might get to 53F tonight.
It was actually 10 when I woke. Winter stinks here in NE.
 
Before in all her ugly. Appears I had an extra thick leaf added at some point?

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That's an add-a-leaf, poor man's way to shore up a saggy spring pack.

The little part is the e-brack cable guide that is usually attached to the rear diff cover.
 
That's an add-a-leaf, poor man's way to shore up a saggy spring pack.

The little part is the e-brack cable guide that is usually attached to the rear diff cover.
Ah that was what I figured on the leaves. And darn no real challenge on that bracket. Kinda funny I thought it disappeared during a trail meet awhile back but there she is in all her rusty glory. ;)
 
You definitely have your share of rusty/crusty to deal with!

Let me check my stash and I'll send you some cleaner U bolt plates if I hung onto them. I may also have a clean backing plate or two for your rear brakes as well.
 
I’m betting I can get the spring plates cleaned but yes the backing plates for the drums would be key. Just spoke w/ Fred and I’ve got all the rear parts for a brake job but after the knuckles and front brakes and getting them bled I just didn’t want to deal w/ that so soon. @Seth_O let me borrow the spring SST which is still in its box w/ everything ready to go.
 
Did you put penetrating oil on the U-Bolt? Why not just cut them off?
Ofcourse I lubed, multiple times in fact! It’s not the u bolt on that side which is the problem it’s tje top bolt on the shackle.
I’ve torched and soaked w/ acetone/ATF mix but it’s just not letting up w/ my 2lb sledge. And clearly that shackle has zero life left in it. I gave up for now to move to the driver side.

There I found one u bolts washers (they each have two installed) are glued to the plate by rusty corrosion. Got three and one chose to not give up. I did finally cut that one.
When I have to stop to rest my shoulder this is what I have to look up at.... not the worst weather today here in CT, 48 degrees and dry for now. Rain coming tomorrow.

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Holy crap. Help. Both top shackle bolts are locked right in. Torch, 2lb sledge, nothing is making them move.
 
If you've gotten the nut partially off, you can grease the threads and turn it back on. Then grease the threads where the nut had been and try to remove it again. Wire wheel the threads first if you can reach them.

If that fails, you'll have to cut or grind either the nut or bold head. The heat from grinding should help with the bushing removal later. It's going to take a lot because the bolts are probably Grade 5. Pretty orange fireflies.
 
Sawzall. Cut both sides of the shackle mount. Pound the bushings and bolt remains out.

I’d try to keep the pounding to a minimum. You don’t want to skew the shackle mount
 
I agree that drastic measures will be needed. I would heat the bolt until the rubber starts to melt and stink. Heat both ends and heat it glowing red if possible. That will usually get them moving. But it may take 10-15 minutes of continuous heating to achieve the desired results. Mapp gas works a bit better or oxy-acetylene. Both burn hotter than propane.

I also agree that with the rust in that frame, I would not be too rough on the mount.
 
Grinder with (several) thin cutoff discs. Take no prisoners.
 
Well my per usual routine is beg for help and then just do it.
Granted okay I’ve pounded potentially more than I should but I finally got the passenger side. And I now have fancy art for my garage wall.
Driver is shifting but I’m quitting due to lack of light and will cut off tomorrow. It’s simply just annoying g too much to be futzing this much.
At some point in my future my truck will have the chopped quarter panels. My driver side appears to have been a bondo job and took a few hits the edge of my sledge and decided to give way. Whatever I’m okay w/ it.
Thank you for all the reply’s!
There’s definitely something not quite right w/ me, I gave up an offer of a nooner to fight w/ my truck. Haha! This is far more satisfying and has no cause for regret!

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