When I read mwebs post I thought the same thing! I had to shut off my brain and put it aside, then read it again later and figured it out! So funny!
Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (7 Viewers)
- Thread starter NeverGiveUpYota
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NeverGiveUpYota
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- #1,842
Ok what part of the distributor would be the tooth? Down below (if so then how do I know I picked the right one?!) or the flat part of the shaft that your saying to remove the rotor from?
I guess I thought he was saying after it’s in if you pull the rotor you can see where the tooth (the tooth, I think there’s 4 inside, that rotates past the pick up, in the upper part of the distributor) is lined up with the pick up. So if it’s lined up to the PU when the BB is at the pointer - it should be perfect.
Haha sorry, that does sound a bit confusing. Basically it is static timing. The distributor part I was referring to is in the pic. Six ‘teeth’ that each trigger the signal generator as they pass.
If you are close with the alignment as you are and have to pick between two, this will tell you. For example if you have to rotate the dist. All the way to one side to get the tooth lined up with the pickup, you’re off. Maybe tooth would be better called a blade?
If you are close with the alignment as you are and have to pick between two, this will tell you. For example if you have to rotate the dist. All the way to one side to get the tooth lined up with the pickup, you’re off. Maybe tooth would be better called a blade?
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Looks like you've got it right. Mine was a little off from the image in the manual too. It says "approximately" so I figured 25-45 degrees was approximate enough! I haven't started it up yet however...
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #1,846
She runs. No carb fan tho after a 10 min idle in driveway. Trivial to the work I did...
You did really well! I'm glad to hear it run again.
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #1,848
Thank you!
Impressive work. From my phone audio it sounds pretty good.
Yeaaaah!! Awesome!!!
Now for that MUD bath...
Now for that MUD bath...
NeverGiveUpYota
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- Thread starter
- #1,851
Ok folks there’s some level of rpm range I need to follow initially or would be more for a full bottom end?
NeverGiveUpYota
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- Thread starter
- #1,852
Took a bit of work to free the breaks on the right side. I think both were stuck. Wd40 the ebrake mechanism in rear and went in reverse and first going easy on gas and it finally gave. Down driveway, turned and reversed up.
Feels good.
Still need to park on the hill and top off and burp the coolant. So far w/ this minimal idling, no leaks from oil pan gasket or the timing plate.
Big smiles. Lower front red valance makes me grin. It’s like a big red lower lip.
Feels good.
Still need to park on the hill and top off and burp the coolant. So far w/ this minimal idling, no leaks from oil pan gasket or the timing plate.
Big smiles. Lower front red valance makes me grin. It’s like a big red lower lip.
YAY!
It’s a tractor!
It’s a tractor!
Now you can pull the trans and do the RMS 
NeverGiveUpYota
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- Thread starter
- #1,855
Haha. Funny guy. Don’t think it didn’t pass my mind during all that.Now you can pull the trans and do the RMS
Sounds awesome! I think I like the cutoff exhaust note
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #1,857
Quick little 2 mile drive down to the gas station and other than the exhaust being loud as heck and less umph she drove well!
NeverGiveUpYota
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- #1,858
I do too. Very throaty but so less umph. I'm pondering buying a cupling and refitting the old pipe back on w/ a tail out the side minus the muffler. Will see. Money is tight as you all know.
I chopped it to get better access to the rot inside the rear hanger. Still waiting on the metal frommy welder and the lift from Jason, @reevesci.
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Great job. Sounds good!
Snap crackle pop of the straight pipes!
