Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (6 Viewers)

[Cruiserdrew]

Nice work. Can't wait until you fire it up.

I would not use window screen-the mesh will block too much airflow. Use 1/4 mesh or similar.

What's up with your wiring? Looks like problems!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Nice work. Can't wait until you fire it up.

I would not use window screen-the mesh will block too much airflow. Use 1/4 mesh or similar.

What's up with your wiring? Looks like problems!

Which wiring? Alt? Stufff is unplugged and none of the vac lines are rerouted yet.

 

[Prairie Swamp]

You can go to McMaster.com and look at all their screen material. Last time I looked each screen had an "open area" spec. My point is you will be blocking air flow.

If you look up a certain screen and it says 82% Open Area you would be blocking 18% of your air flow with that particular screen. It's up to you but if you have cooling issues you might have to make a change.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Ok I’ll just let it be. Thanks guys.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Okay this ugly wiring @Cruiserdrew? What sort of ‘sleeve’ is avail to encapsulate these but still be easy enough to get into?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

All that counts is, I know what it means.

 

[slomoe]

Hey all, I want to add some sort of screen ahead of the radiator but behind the grill. I asked the welder what he thought but he wasn’t sure. Regular metal screen like in a screen door or would pet screen work? It just to help prevent too many bugs and junk hitting the radiator fins.

it doesn't look like you are reinstalling a\c condenser?? if not, any heavy screen will do. my welding buddy had some scrap laying around with diamond spaces and works great. really like having something in front of radiator.

 

[slomoe]

i doubled up on mine, then zip-tied to stop any rattle.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yeah that was the idea since all AC is removed w/ no clear reinstall decision anytime soon.
Thanks!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Can I use vacuum hose from boost for my coolant overflow res line?

View attachment 1779669

 

[89BIGBLUE]

The colors on your truck are awesome. Any green in the future? Might have to call it “Skittles” when it’s done-ish...
Drive the Rainbow!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

No plans for green but we are a work in progress, so maybe!

 

[FJACS]

If that blue hose is silicone you’re good. But you might put a spring style hose clamp on the radiator end of it.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

If that blue hose is silicone you’re good. But you might put a spring style hose clamp on the radiator end of it.

Hey hey, there you are! Just the guy I was thinking about this AM.
Thanks! I have the stock clamps, I’ll add them.
But the reason I was thinking g of you is I’m so close firing up! Today potentially.
Oil? Break-in procedure? Hand holding asap!

 

[Infinity00]

Exciting! Let’s hear it

 

[FJACS]

Since you kept the cam and lifters it’s not really a true break in. That said, it’s import to use a proper break in oil for the first start. Opinions vary on this. I use whatever high zinc break in oil I can get. Failing that Rotella with a lot of Lucas zinc could work. I think (again opinions will vary) it’s more important to run it up to operating temp and then dump the oil and change the filter - you had bits of bearing in the oil pan that lead to the tear down. I’d focus on getting stray particles of metal out of the oil system as a priority.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Ok I’m gonna lose my gourd while I sweat whatever fat I might have on my skinny ass body off in this heat.
Diz seating. I’m getting two results.
At #1 BB when I tweak oil shot to point smidge to left of 4 w/ rotor positioned smidge left of 3 before fully seating, I get rotor pointing smidge left of 4 which appears correct (as noted by photos 1 & 2). But #1 problem..... then when I attempt to forward the alt nut to TDC, rotor continues to point left of 4 when book says should be pointing right of 4.

So if I tweak oil slot more to right then seat again and get rotor pointing at 4 which appears wrong in fsm (photo 3), but hey let’s just try it... #2 problem.... AND now turn to TDC I get rotor still pointing at 4 still not ahead of 4.

What the freak am I doing wrong?

 

[morganism]

I seem to recall a couple weeks ago, someone pointed (sic) out that the diagram is a bit off, may have been fjJim, so think you are good.

Make sure that rear firewall ground is connected, and we used to turn over w out coil wire connected to distrib for a min or two to prime galleys. R u gonna start w valve cover off?

 

[mwebfj60]

If you line up the B.B. and pull the rotor, you should be able to line the tooth up with the pickup in the distributor and be about halfway in the slot for the hold down bolt.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

If you line up the B.B. and pull the rotor, you should be able to line the tooth up with the pickup in the distributor and be about halfway in the slot for the hold down bolt.

I’ve read that three times and it still sounds like a foreign language outloud. Haha!
I’ll go w/ Morgan’s suggestion that the diagram is a smidge off. Bolt is centered. After cold valve adjustment of first group, turned flywheel to 6 exhaust and rotor pointed almost exactly opposite, (photo below).

As it stands now, cover is on and battery fully held down by now green painted stock bracket. Diz cap and plug wires attached.

Had to call it quits about 7 as the mosquitos were out and eating me alive.

Still need to add air cleaner and hook up vac lines. Maybe maybe I can give it a go tomorrow or Wed w/ my son.