Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (12 Viewers)

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Oh but maybe I like the wild semi harnessed ride Badass provides me! It keeps me on my toes!
Ha!
Yes, thank you @mattressking possibly this weekend I’ll go thru some of those checks when kiddo isn’t w/ me and I have a couple extra hands to help.

 

[gregnash]

F... you got this. Pretty sure that you have gone through everything so do like @mattressking said and check for play in the box, make adjustments and go.

As for the tires, always be sure to check the Discount Tire Direct eBay store for deals on tires because the stores will actually match their own ebay listings (unlike many places that wont match their own company online listing). You know that I have become a big fan of Cooper Tires and my S/T Maxx are still going strong and look practically brand new. Actually, went shooting last weekend with my buddy and we took BeBe, to get to our friends range on his property requires 4wd and some clearance. My buddy was checking my tires out and asked me how long I had them because he remembers when I got them but thought they still looked brand new. Remember I do 80% city driving so they are constantly on the road. If you dont want something as aggressive as the S/T Maxx (considered an Extreme Terrain, in-between an All Terrain and a Mud Terrain) then look at the AT3/ATP.

Also, Cooper is the main builder/mfg. or MasterCraft tires, so you will see very similar tread profiles with the MasterCraft tires. Many times you can find those on sale at specialty 4x4 shops because people think they are just some weird knock-off. They will be a bit cheaper than the straight Coopers but still have comparable warranty.Cooper|Mastercraft 31x10.50r15 all terrain | eBay

 

[roadstr6]

Fel,

To rein in your loose steering, tighten up your drag link / relay ends. Pull the cotter pins, tighten the caps all the way down and back them off a half turn, install new cotter pins. You'll be amazed. It'll take you 15 minutes. You will have to pull off the passenger front wheel to access one of the ends. That's the hardest part of the whole procedure so that should tell you it is a .5 banana job.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Fel,

To rein in your loose steering, tighten up your drag link / relay ends. Pull the cotter pins, tighten the caps all the way down and back them off a half turn, install new cotter pins. You'll be amazed. It'll take you 15 minutes. You will have to pull off the passenger front wheel to access one of the ends. That's the hardest part of the whole procedure so that should tell you it is a .5 banana job.

Esp if you saw the condition of my lug nuts... ugly. Its not happening tonight. Getting dark and cold. Tmrw if its not pouring after work it should be in the 50's again. Will see what I can pull off. Thanks Dave. I found that o-ring too in an assortment box at napa. Its not exact but I'll give it a try. Still nothing from the secondary.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Number two Carb Rebuild of a carb core I picked up from @4Cruisers a few days ago. Okay so I’ll be way forward here and say.... I spent about 10 mins pondering how I could use one of two vibrators to make a ultrasonic cleaner this AM. Unfortunately both were too old and the batteries had corroded the innards. Apparently batteries should be removed when tools like that are given a rest. Insert smirk here, Then I decided to try the cheap palm sander route. 1.3A, metal stock pot, blue simple green cleaner and gorilla tape. It was fairly noisy until the handle vibrated right off the lid then it was much better. Absolutely worked better than just dipping.
My before pix is simply a shot straight down (gasket still in place) right after removing from the shipping box.
Last three are after only 30 mins.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The middle section of the carb where both check valves reside I chose to drop right side up into the chem dip and added the sander on top. Both valves are semi glued down from old solidified fuel. And in the bowl is a fuel puddle that is rock hard.
I turned the sander on for about 15 mins then decided to let it rest. I worked last night and wasn’t asleep till 1 then I woke wired at 6 so it was time for me to head inside, take a hot shower and eat. Luckily the temps were pretty mild today, about 48.

The next few pixs are before any dip or buzzing.

 

[crashmonk]

Wow it's been a while since I've looked at a carb. Gotta dust off the cob webs from my brain, had to diagnose a bad cap and rotor the other day... You just don't see this stuff much anymore.

Nice work on the cleaner, i was nervous about clicking the play button!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Hahaha!

 

[Infinity00]

now what, you tape the sander to the stock pot and it all stays together? Do you have pics of the carb body after 15 minutes in your shaker? I need to do that trick.

Hey, I found the perfect spring for underneath the discharge weight if you are ever missing it (again?). You know that old accelerator pump that we toss, well there’s a perfect spring under the lip. Just peel that out of there and I think you’ll be impressed - just needs a little trimming.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Huh? I’m not following you.

You know that old accelerator pump that we toss, well there’s a perfect spring under the lip. Just peel that out of there and I think you’ll be impressed - just needs a little trimming.

Which spring we toss? In most rebuilds you need to retain the springs as they don’t come w/ the kits (unless the H named kit does? I’m forgetting the brands full name that Pinhead uses.)

The aluminum discharge weight from this carb and it’s spring shown below. The spring is thin and soft very similar to some pens. I have an extra from the double pen I hijacked months ago. Did you find an equivalent or are you hijacking another from a different area of the carb?

And I posted a before photo of the air horn from this carb (granted not the best photo) and after above.

 

[Infinity00]

I could never find the right spring from a bic pen, they were all too big and not floppy enough. My guy who rebuilds alternators and starters hooked me up with springs from his millions of leftover brush kit pieces, they were close to the right softness, but too short. I started thinking more about finding a spring from underneath a seal, like the idk, cam cover seal, something small.

Then I was pawing through my old carb junk leftover from my last carb rebuild just because I like to do that sometimes. Sitting there was an old accelerator pump plunger, the kind with the pink leather, that I had ruined when I didn’t properly soak it. So I thought, what’s under the leather piece? sure enough the perfect small, but not too small, and perfectly floppy, springy, spring. It’s just twisted together at the ends to hold it in a circle and then inserted underneath the leather to act as the small force on the circumference of the plunger as it goes up and down in the accelerator bore.

Most people don’t use the plunger if they rebuild, it comes in the kit or they buy the better leather one and the old one can be cannibalized for this missing spring. Just needs trimming to length of about 3/4” long.

Sheesh, this is long winded, here’s a picture

 

[Infinity00]

I pulled that spring out from underneath the leather

 

[Infinity00]

Then untwist the ends and trim to length

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I’ll give you that that was great quick thinking but it needs to fit around the skinny end of the discharge weight.... does it? Send me your address @evilorgoodtwin and I’ll send you my extra.

 

[Infinity00]

Fits perfect. This is before trimming.

 

[Infinity00]

Thanks for the offer to send the spring, that’s very nice of you. I think I’m all set with this setup now. Just keep bringing on the great tech! Love all the great information you’re sharing. I’m very interested in the recurve you did. I’m kinda working forward and backward in your thread by parts, and I’ve seen you mention it but haven’t found it to read yet.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Personally, I’d worry that spring is too narrow and long. It’s gonna wobble back and forth and your not gonna get an adequate squirt of fuel. My offer still stands. The extra you see in the picture is a duplicate of the one in my existing carb now and it works.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Thanks for the offer to send the spring, that’s very nice of you. I think I’m all set with this setup now. Just keep bringing on the great tech! Love all the great information you’re sharing. I’m very interested in the recurve you did. I’m kinda working forward and backward in your thread by parts, and I’ve seen you mention it but haven’t found it to read yet.

Recurve directions are on Daves @Roadster66 The Turdle Build, #154 I believe.

 

[landcrusher909]

Your on a roll ! Keep up the good work

 

[Infinity00]

I finished your thread, very inspirational! What I like about your style is when you’ve run into problems, sometimes you’ll switch gears and do simpler stuff that is succcessful. I think this is so important, this s*** is HARD and you’ve figured out tons of stuff while always giving credit to those that came before you. Really inspirational.

Many of us have been in the same boat as you, including me. I’ve got some weird stuff going on ever since I took my carb off to unbend the linkage that got bent into a u-shape. Even though I’m usually scared to do something like that because I don’t want to introduce problems, I actually wasn’t scared at all this one time. And now my car is running lean, won’t idle and has a sometimes vacuum leak (was steady at 16 now 15 and drops to 8). It was running great before I took the carb off to fix the linkage.

It may not help you, but just knowing that other people are working through these challenges has helped keep me going.

If you are still having trouble with your manifold leak, I have a thought that I’m sure you’ve already read, but I didn’t see it in your threads....

Before tightening the intake and exhaust down to the head, make sure to leave 5 bolts loose that fasten the intake and exhaust together (probably need to remove carb). Then snug the manifold to the head and then tighten the intake to exhaust bolts. Then torque the manifold to head. Sometimes this gives just a little bit more flatness to the area where the manifold mates to the head. It’s really hard to get these to seal even after getting them resurfaced from my experience and from a lot of what I’ve read online. I’m going to have to do mine again soon, and I now own 3 carbs, and like I said before, your work is inspiring me to keep at it.

Btw, what torque did you use for the 5 intake to exhaust bolts? I just retightened mine but need to be careful since the threads are in aluminum.