Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (1 Viewer)

[NeverGiveUpYota]

It's pretty standard to get the front wheels off the ground and turn wheels stop to stop several times with the engine off after getting into the power steering system. You're right, it purges the air out of the system. You just have to watch the reservoir level...or in this case, looks like you are putting the lines in a bucket with ATF in it. With the wheels off the ground, it is really easy to do and I personally wouldn't run a pump without doing this first.

That I did. Up on jack stands and swapped the bottle for a larger one just incase and tipped it downward. Got it primed, ran an entire quart of fluid into it.
Let the choke down almost half. Fuel sight glass halfway as expected...
Then I shut her off, go the old skool route and use the bottle jack again and get her off the stands.
I hook up the return line and fill the res again.
During all the above my oil pressure was nothing but I realized that after I spliced the broken wire I'd plugged it into the wrong clip. Reset it and tried to restart her.
3/4 turns of the key and all I get is revving not catch. Then I get a click then I get nothing, nada, zip. Dash lights not even coming on. Sight glass has fuel.
W/ my multimeter the resting volts on the battery are 12.73 which is good sooooo WTF now?

 

[micruz60]

Oh****. Check your fuses.
Something about hooking that oil sender wire to the wrong spade can cause haywire.
Can you jump it from another running vehicle?

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Seriously the sender will cause that much of an issue? I thought if it was hooked wrong you'd just fry the sender itself?
I do have a portable jumper that I can use. It's more nasty wet out there now and I'm glued to my couch. I need to refuel and warm up. Will deal w/ her tmrw after work.
Anyone know what gauge that stretch of fusible wire is? I did replace it awhile back from Napa but I know it's not the right gauge.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Edited: sender hooked up wrong fries the gauge.

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

there are threads with it. try the 40s section....the fsm gives metric crossectional areas of the different sizes of FL wires which can be converted...I got some at napa. I wanna say I used 14 gauge FL wire for alot of it. an alternative is to run a very big wire from the battery to a small accessory fuse block capable of handling a couple hundred amps and use maxi fuses for the links. It isn't stockish, but highly functional just the same, and provides equal levels of protection.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yeah I replaced w/ 14. I figured by going w/ what they had, the higher number would simply mean it'll fry out sooner.

 

[mwebfj60]

Edited: sender hooked up wrong fries the gauge.

It did on mine 7 yrs ago Some engineer's dirty prank.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Maiden Voyage!!!

Will add a video from youtube as soon as it uploads. Chugga chugga chugga, pop, pop!
Carb Idle Mix is 3 turns out, Idle Speed has idle around 1100 and most definitely if I pull up on the gas pedal truck wants to stall out. Post chuggy voyage in which I drove around the lake near me and I had to down shift a bunch and feather the gas and a few times coming to stops she stalled out totally and had to turn the key while slowly moving.
Once back home I retarded the diz a tad, sprayed the last of a carb bottle anywhere I could reach and got zero change in revs. Then I did an Okie Rebuild about 5 times and each time the truck happily puttered out. Happy dance! (Before manifold work she never stalled.) I am noticing bubbles in my carb sight window... read up some last night cuz saw it yesterday too... gas is boiling... Other than that not 100% sure why and if it should not be?
And btw the pop from the carb... yeah you don't want to be standing on your tire step stool a mere foot above when it pops, that s*** is LOUD! And man does it get a person to jump damn fast off the step stool!
Will also note truck heater is way warmer than it ever was... does that make sense? And the new to me used stock pump is happily doing its thing (thanks Justin! @JustinJawbreaker).
I promise tomorrow I will pull out the better timing gun and check her out. And may do a compression test at the same time since I bought the gauge awhile back.
What else guys? I have to work at 3pm... if any of you awesome folks would be up for chatting or facetiming with me, I'd be ever so grateful.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Yeah, yeah, I got a mouth on me. Lol! My mom was such a truck driver potty mouth when I was a teen. I learned well.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

So around 2k-25k I get the stumble the most. Then as I down shift and brake to turn into a driveway, ect she stalls out. Pretty sure she's got a malfunctioning valve? Or timing off. I can't hook up the outer port on the diz pot because it doesn't work.
And now while I sit drinking a coffee at a bakery down the street w/ the key in ON so I can listen to the radio I noticed my temp gauge is almost in the red. (And no my carb fan isn't working... seeking one from a guy up north).

 

[micruz60]

The carb was rebuilt, right? Power valve in carb? controls 2000-2500rpm range.
When it stumbles and stalls- is there still fuel in carb sight glass?
It is understood that you have replaced the fuel pump along with proper spacer. So probably not a fuel delivery issue.
I am thinking timing, vacuum advance, due to the chuggachug - spark plugs are gapped properly along with the airgap in the distributor? Since you have it desmogged, the advance curve could be off.

Heat soak occurs when engine off, it will get the temp up, but, that is not a good sign. Hmm. You mention the gas was boiling...Can you check temps at front of radiator, top hose, maybe an air bubble in temp. sender at top of the head? InfraRed temp gun can check that.
When you reworked the I/E manifold, did the heat flap get fixed in closed position? (I do not think that is the issue tho).

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Before answering the questions above. I looked under the truck just after added that pix. I noted coolant near the left leaf springs and on the frame rail... Followed the path up and could see it came from the overflow on the coolant res. Since then it hasn't done it again but I can check the temp sensor per OS and see how the level is under it. I do not have an infrared heat gun. I recurved my diz myself per Dave (rushing turdle's) directions.

After talking to @mwebfj60 for a bit it seems I am running to rich... lots of pops and fuel visible streaming from the primary venturi in the carb... Going to work on getting the idle down then idle mix and the f-ing lean drop method insanity begins. (I told him I swear it boggles me, I need a lean drop method for dummies)... @LAMBCRUSHER as easy as you have explained in layman terms I still get boggled.

Carb rebuilt, yes. Power valve.... Its in, not sure how to check it out without removing the carb again. Call me crazy but I kept my heat flap intact and did not block it off with a heat riser plate as it gets plenty cold her in CT. Granted my carb fan is NOT working tho I tore it apart and cleaned it up and reinstalled it. I have yet to attempt to try running it straight off the battery, will do just need to get over the angst of it... electricity freaks me out.

At the bakey I was trying to leave and the truck was surging and stalling hardcore. I sat and pondered and googled. Found a thread that mentioned the ICS and grounding it to the carb body. I had mine set up that way so for hohas I unpluged it from the jumpers entirely and turned the key to on and tried plugging the clips together. I got the audible click and left it together minus the direct ground. Started her up and no more surging and stalling. RPMs still high but she drove smooth and steady. Took the mile drive home past my house and another 1/2 mile to Napa for a few things and still the same. (this also verifies my emissions computer is working, correct?)

Quick video link of driving home from Napa.

 

[micruz60]

Ya the lean drop method setting is an.... "Art form" of frustration. Patience wears thin.
As you have done the Okie carb trick several times, with stall as expected, I wonder if the o-ring at the ICS is seated in its round recess and no nicks along the barrel? No fun having to pull the carb to check this...

edit to add:
Sounds like the ics is fine, might have needed an electrical 'reboot'
If you are desmogged, does the emissions computer still factor into vacuum switches? idk.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Fluttering from 700-900 between ... Getting there!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Timing thus far def still have a very audible and palpable flutter. Will spray girl down with carb spray all over and see where it might be leaking. Compression test tomorrow after work. Might drive her to work tonight for hohas; 15 min drive on highway. Can't be worse than she was this AM.

 

[micruz60]

Not bad, not bad at all, idle can vary within 50 rpm +/- I think the lean drop will get it a bit lower.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Drove to work. Did ok tho I needed to turn the idle speed up a smidge so it wouldn't stall out off choke. Yes, getting there!
"On the road again!!!"

 

[gregnash]

Sweet! Finally got her running... I would check all your plug wires to ensure they are seated properly and fully. I had one wire on the #2 cylinder that did not like to seat properly/fully so after running around for weeks it would suddenly feel like a slight miss (like your flutter) eventually I was looking at the wires and felt that one not wanting to seat fully in the dizzy so I replaced with a new on and the flutter went away.

 

[micruz60]

Side note:
Thank you for being a caregiver to the wise elderly people.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Sweet! Finally got her running... I would check all your plug wires to ensure they are seated properly and fully. I had one wire on the #2 cylinder that did not like to seat properly/fully so after running around for weeks it would suddenly feel like a slight miss (like your flutter) eventually I was looking at the wires and felt that one not wanting to seat fully in the dizzy so I replaced with a new on and the flutter went away.

Hmm. I'll check that. Honestly I did some much maneuvering of that cap it's totally possible. Thanks for the suggestion. I'd love to get out there now but I'm wiped from working last night 3-11:30 then today 7-3. And will be picking up my son tonight at 7:30 (w/ a 30 min drive one way) so it'd be worthless to pop her hood for a whole whooping 30 mins. Tease me, tease her.