Builds Work In Progress aka: Badass (33 Viewers)

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Fuel pump may have been aftermarket, but was it a reboxed Kyosan ? Kyosan is the OEM which made the pump for Toyota and is sold in lots of different ways. Toyo part # is 23100-61070 81-87 FJ60. (Kyosan TP-636) The insulater is different, cutoff being 10/84, but if they one on the truck is ok, then stick with it. Use a little sealant, though.

Difficult to tell from your pic if that's a Kyosan pump.



As for Beefcake for calendars / posters, maybe you should start hanging around Firetrucks.

The one I had from Rockauto was aftermarket, just found the receipt, it was a Spectra Premium S9 SP1214MP and was definitely not correct as you can see in the pix of whats left of the actuating arm. I can check the box which is still in my big box of "crap" but it was a blue rockauto one and no where said Kyosan on it. The one I bought from Cruiser Outfitter is a Kyosan and came in the box labeled as such.

 

[Spike Strip]

Yeah, I think there's Chi-comm pumps out there, now.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

New fuel pump now, @Spike Strip... lower left of pix. (Not exactly a pix of the fuel pump but this is of the alt bracket I recently modified for a new cs130 alt I just put in.. that info soon to come).

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Beefcake for calendars / posters.... haha, it took me a few readings of that to catch the funny. Yea, firemen, oh yeah!

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Nice work. Nice happy dogz. Good lookin' truck!

For reference in case anyone in the future finds this thread:

.5mm fusible link = 20ga fusible link (GREEN FL wire )
.85 mm fusible link = 18ga fusible link (RED wire)
1.0mm fusible link = 16ga fusible link
1.25mm fusible link = 16ga fusible link
2.0mm fusible link = 14 ga fusible link

Hard to find those sizes but I've seen small sections available on ebay, Amazon. Probably won't be able to find the correct colors, though.

And FWIW, when I got my first FJ60, the FL had been fried like yours and someone had by-passed it with SOLID STRAIGHT WIRE! - At least they fused yours.

So hilariously I see that one of the threads I followed back when I was trying to figure out mine was yours. I have it and Coolerman's linked in that section now.

 

[fnpierce]

Fearless...

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Fearless...

I have plenty of fears... I just chose to see them behind me instead.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Mom and son wrenching moment.

Starter: I had this funky thunk noise recently and then the truck gave me only idiot lights then nothing with a turn of the key. I pulled the starter and brought it to napa so they could bench test it for me. It appeared all good. Nothing appeared burnt or degraded. PO had it put in at sometime last winter. I believe it was used. Bench tested x3 and checked out 100%.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Alternator, GM cs130 swap: Via text me and a friend went back and forth and he guided me through checking out if my alt was ultimately the issue. I've added the page of back and fourths (first pix) I did with my meter. In the end it appeared that my alternator was shot. The one that was in the truck was from a Cressida and clocked at 10 so the VR was pressed up against the intake hose and I had the truck set up with a belt a tad larger than what would be in there for stock.
I had picked up the cs130 months ago and a guy from the fb toyota page helped me out and put a resistor into the pigtail for me (.5 watt 470 ohm. It was what gm said to use). At the top of the page I have noted which side of the 12v clip I'd need to wire the pigtail to.
Unfortunately I needed to modify the alt bracket a fair amount as the chevy alt has shorter feet (sixth pix) and a higher fan (sorry, whatever the fins on it are called, third pix). I pulled the bracket and marked the alt with chalk and ground the lower section of bracket down as well as the belt tensioner section too. (There was a third section of bracket that came off so I cleaned and painted that too).
After shaving both down a bit I gave it a good cleaning and added a coat of paint.

View attachment 1394381

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Alternator GM cs130 cont: Course the upper bolt hole on the alt housing was aluminum and a smidge different size thread so my bolt was just eating into the metal. New tool time! One of the guys at my local Ace pointed me to a tap and 8mm die. It worked well enough. I get how to use one now... (galley plug in the future). I added a nut to the rear of the bolt through the belt tensioner nut.

Shhh, I know that is an ungodly amount of free wire all over the place. I'll trim it up.

I mentioned using chalk to mark the areas where the bracket was rubbing. Here is a pix of that... all I can envision is my old dentist from when I was a kid using that purple double sided tape in my mouth as he needed to grind down my new amalgam fillings that were rubbing on the tooth opposing it.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Please feel free to criticize/add guidance, whatever. I am happy to hear where I might have f'd up or done something not quite the way you would have... I am all ears to learning a "different" way.
I do know that once I got the battery hooked back up the truck fired right up with the new Chevy alt. Volts gauge shows a solid 14 as well. I have yet to put my meter to it as this was just a week or so ago and the weather has been up and down here in CT. That and the fact kiddo is w/ me during the week so its not that easy to get out to her in the driveway. Dishes, dinner, child and animal care take precedent most often.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I recently started a post on a "cold" valve adjustment. Here is the link to the thread.
"Cold" Valve Adjustment

 

[CuCruiser]

If you just turned ol' Badass on her side like your son did, you wouldn't need those goggles to keep the crud from falling into your forehead.
Joking aside, you are going to have one sweet 60 when you're all done (does that ever happen?) All the sweeter knowing it inside and out and knowing you did it all yourself. Major kudos to you Felicity.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Many times

If you just turned ol' Badass on her side like your son did, you wouldn't need those goggles to keep the crud from falling into your forehead.
Joking aside, you are going to have one sweet 60 when you're all done (does that ever happen?) All the sweeter knowing it inside and out and knowing you did it all yourself. Major kudos to you Felicity.

I've wished I could lay her over! It would be so much easier... luckily she's so high off the ground I can sit crossed legged under her and almost sit straight up.
Thanks for the kudos.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Boy sometimes I say things or type them and don't realize till later how they come across. Glad that first sentence got broken up... helps it not read as dirty.

 

[Spike Strip]

I have to second the above post about admiring your fearless confidence and persistence. You're aurum.

Don't proofred. It's better with goofs.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

The Uglies: So I have some things on my plate...

1) I have a hairline crack in my intake manifold... Pondering this and doing the "maybe" its not that big a deal back and fourth in my head especially seeing my vac gauge reading of 22-25.
2) I have some excessive leakage around my transfer case and rear main seal. I read last night often IF its from the RMS you "will see a radial pattern of leaking on the back of the flywheel."
3) I also am fairly sure my front output seal is leaking and does not even have a tight fit to the flange (literally just noticed its not even flush all the way around, especially from looking down from above).
4) Exhaust... I did a power wash not too long ago and man is water cooking off hot metal a great way to see where you have corroded pin holes. Everywhere its excessively rusty I had steam! Basically the entire length of my pipe from the lower point of the J to the muffler (I have no cat).
5) Pull my drums and replace the shoes, the surface rust that I can see is nasty, clean up my e brake mechanism; it works but not as good as I'd like... I def don't trust my toes near the tires if I'm on a hill.
6) Order OEM brake pads (my friend who was a Toyota mechanic years ago told me to always order them straight from the dealer).

To Do: I have some parts/kits on hand.

A) Leaf spring bushings (Have set ready. Front appear replaced at one time more recently than the rear).
B) Knuckle Rebuild kit on hand Terrian Tamer from Valley Hybirds.
B) Front Calipers (bought a rebuild kit but a friend is trying to dissuade me from that chore).
C) New Rotors (ready to swap), basic Autozone.
D) New soft brake lines, have on hand.
E) Tie Rod Ends and Steering Stabilizer, need to order.
F) Cork gasket for the Push Rod Galley Cover via local dealer p/n 11253-60010, just ordered (I already have FIPG sealer from the dealership).
G) Horn pin, c-clip and spring via local dealer p/n 84312-20011, just ordered.
H) Transfer Case Seal via local dealer p/n 90311-48010 just ordered.

I) Shift Lever Bushing via TPD p/n 33548-60020. Have on hand.
J) Shift Lever Seat via TPD p/n 33505-60011. Have on hand.

K) Swap new used oil pan I bought years ago from CruiserParts NH, need to straighten out the edges (mushroomed), wire brush the mating surface and paint. ( I have two cork gaskets on hand).

L) And a friend and I are swapping tires, he's hooking me up with his 31's and he's getting my 35's hopefully next weekend if weather is decent and my neighbor is around to help as he has all the equipment to swap them on the rims. I have a set of steelies in my garage all ready to go.

 

[60Works]

Hey, F. Great to see you crossing items off your to do list.

The gap on the pinion flange is just a shield. The real seal is protected by it. No need to worry about it.

Everyone's front and rear main seals leak. Unless is crazy bad, I would put other items ahead of replacing it. Often even new OEM seals still leak.

Before you install that .net oil pan I would recommend pouring a quart of old oil in it to see if it leaks. Old pans often leak at the spot welds where the skid plate is attached. .net has a bad habit of setting engines on the ground resting on the oil pans. It routinely cracks those welds. The repair is a new pan.

Enjoying your thread. "Nothing runs like a Deere."

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Hey, F. Great to see you crossing items off your to do list.

The gap on the pinion flange is just a shield. The real seal is protected by it. No need to worry about it.

Everyone's front and rear main seals leak. Unless is crazy bad, I would put other items ahead of replacing it. Often even new OEM seals still leak.

Before you install that .net oil pan I would recommend pouring a quart of old oil in it to see if it leaks. Old pans often leak at the spot welds where the skid plate is attached. .net has a bad habit of setting engines on the ground resting on the oil pans. It routinely cracks those welds. The repair is a new pan.

Enjoying your thread. "Nothing runs like a Deere."

Thank you Galen. Will check that. I had thought of it but course it slipped my mind as its sat (on its side) in my garage on some wood. And tho it appears shiny inside and out that doesn't mean that skid plate isn't weak. Appreciate the heads up on the pinion flange.

** have since put a quart plus of old oil into the .net pan and had it sitting on a clean piece of cardboard in the garage and so far its solid, no leaks.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

Pulled the top off my carb today to check my slow jets for debris.
All seem to check out. @roadstr6 Dave, is a smart guy and suggested a guitar string... and funny thing is I actually have a guitar but alas no extra strings tucked away in the case as I hoped. Found some copper wire I was able to strip the insulating sheath off and was able to push it thru. Sprayed out well w/ brake cleaner too.
Had a mini panic too that I had my needle valve in upside down but I was wrong and it's in correct. The arm tho that presses on it from the float is pretty wavery. It measures right but I tend to wonder if I should try to straighten it out more.
So here the top of the carb sits again on my desk... I've walked away, the gas fumes were doing me in.