Won’t start after maintenance

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Jun 6, 2016
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San Antonio
I’ll try not to write a novel...but I figure more info helps

I recently replaced all of the common seals where these things leak(oil pump, crank seal, vc gasket, tube seals, distributor o-ring). I also replaced the spark plugs, PS pump, feed line, all PS hoses and all heater/radiator hoses.
Guess I should mention I changed the brushes in the alternator out too and the knock sensor(which I broke doing the PHH)

After all of this was completed and with all the fluids topped off, I went to start it up and it just cranks and cranks but won’t run. A few of the connectors did break when undoing them but I have them plugged back in and secured the best I can.

With the engine at TDC, I clocked my distributor rotor at about 11 o’clock which turned to about 2 o’clock when pushed in. Is that the right orientation? Also, if I had a bad fusible link, would the truck even crank over? Thanks in advance, I’m stumped and hoping I just forgot something
 

ajax1

 
Joined
Feb 7, 2009
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2,156
Distributer sounds off quite bit , fsm lays it out , lineup the line mark on the distributer then stab should point at number 1 plug , make sure everything is top dead center if you rotated the engine at all
 
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Jun 6, 2016
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San Antonio
I’ll have to look at the fsm and see. I thought I read from another link to line it up at 11 when the engine is at TDC. Would any sensors being unplugged prevent it from starting?
 
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May 12, 2015
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SoCal
If no-go after that and you smothered the connections with dielectric grease, get the grease off and try it again.
 
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Jun 6, 2016
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San Antonio
No CEL on with the key on, and I changed my fusible link out. Checked the FSM and with my engine at TDC, I have the rotor at 11-ish. When I pull the distributor out it moves, obviously, and is no longer at 11. Just wondering if it’s suppose to be at 11 o’clock when seated at TDC. It’s still just cranking, btw

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Tacoma, WA
If you don't have a CEL it will just crank. Did your CEL light up before you did all of this? If not, maybe the dash bulb is out. If it did, new fusible link could have gotten fried by something you did after you installed it or something not wired correctly.
 
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Chandler, AZ
No CEL on with the key on, and I changed my fusible link out. ...
No CEL often indicates no power to the ECU, if so not guna run. Do the headlights work, radio? When the key is cycled off to run, does the EFI relay click? If yes, with the key to run, does the B+ term in the diagnosis box have battery-ish voltage?
 

flintknapper

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Be sure and check your MAF connector and see if it is plugged in (at your air intake hose) its easy to overlook if you had taken it off.

Go back over all of your connections.
 
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Nov 15, 2018
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Signal Mtn
Have a friend or spouse in the cab trying to start it while you grab the efi relay and wiggle it and see if she starts, on my cruiser the relay went out and they just put a generic one in and it wouldn't make a good contact, but wiggling it was how I got her running again, I had to replace it immediately but now she's all fixed
 
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I was wrong about the check engine light, it does come on when the key is on so that’s good. Battery is now pretty much dead so that’s not helping anything. Going to get it charged at work tomorrow and try again when I get home. Went over all the connections again and plug wires as well. Might try to grab a new efi relay as well to rule that out
 

flintknapper

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May 22, 2004
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Have you done a 'spark' test? Make sure the lead to your coil is good (and connected well). Pull a plug and see if you are getting spark. Or if you have an inductive timing light (everyone should) you can use it to check for spark. Also check the resistance of your coil.
 
Joined
Nov 15, 2018
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Signal Mtn
If the EFI relay was bad, the CEL would not be on.
You are right about that one. Mine was going out while I was on the interstate, (fun ya know) and my check engine light didn't come on when it wasn't working, I could wiggle it and smack it with a screwdriver and get another 10 or so miles, finally got to O'Reilly's and that fixed it,
Have you checked the ignition coil ?
Happy Cruisin'
 
Last edited:

alia176

 
 
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Aug 21, 2003
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Tijeras, NM
So, TDC means to me = dizzy rotor at the right orientation
plus
crankshaft mark points to 0 (zero)
AND
the piston is at the very top of the stroke.

The piston confirmation can only happen by removing the spark plug, inserting a long screwdriver through the hole so that it rests on top of the piston. Then see where the screwdriver handle ends up as you rotate the engine manually.

Let us know if you confirmed these three things. If I'm wrong, please correct me.
 
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