Crank no start after vacuum lines

[Demonic92]

I replaced all the vacuum lines on my 91 80 3FE today, and now i have a crank no start. I did break off two nipples on EGR components that i didn't realize were plastic, but i cant imagine that is causing it to not start altogether? I didn't touch anything electrical other than the EGR stuff. One of the plugs on one of the EGR components was pretty crusty on the contacts, maybe that has to do with it? I have no CEL when i turn the key to run. I did move the fusebox out of the way to get to the EGR hoses, but all the wires and pins on the fusebox are fine. Spontaneous EGR relay? All fuses are fine. Tried disconnecting and reconnecting battery. Fusible link done recently. I did vacuum hoses one at a time and I know they're in the right place. Pics attached of broken EGR parts/crusty EGR plug. Any ideas of where to start?

 

[jonheld]

Any ideas of where to start?

General Tech - 3FE EFI Diagnostics

3FE EFI Diagnostics updated for 2020

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Demonic92]

Thanks @jonheld. AFM tests fine, got to the second part where I checked the B+ pin on the diag port, and i can't get 12v out of it. I tried another EFI relay to no avail. EFI relay is getting 12v from the EFI fuse which is obviously good. All the wires and connectors look intact and clean in the fuse box. Not sure where to go from here.

 

[Demonic92]

Also, because i broke a couple EGR parts, should I plan on an EGR delete? At least that black plastic saucer is NLA.

 

[CharlieS]

I don't see how the snapped nipples could cause a no start condition. I'm guessing you bumped or otherwise caused something to disconnect, likely electrical.

 

[Demonic92]

I don't see how the snapped nipples could cause a no start condition. I'm guessing you bumped or otherwise caused something to disconnect, likely electrical.

Right. As i said i did move the fuse box out of the way, but all the wires and everything else look intact. not sure what else i couldve bumped that wouldve caused such an issue.

 

[jonheld]

Thanks @jonheld. AFM tests fine, got to the second part where I checked the B+ pin on the diag port, and i can't get 12v out of it. I tried another EFI relay to no avail. EFI relay is getting 12v from the EFI fuse which is obviously good. All the wires and connectors look intact and clean in the fuse box. Not sure where to go from here.

I assume you know NOT to remove the 2 Phillips screws on the AFM housing to remove the connector.

No +12 on the diagnostic connector pin 8 means the EFI relay is not closed OR while messing with the fender mounted relay box, you inadvertently knocked connector EB1 OR broke a wire/connector on the bottom of the relay box. EB1 runs the show for power in and out of the EFI relay. It lives slightly inboard and below the relay box with 3 wires. Red/yellow stripe; solid red; yellow/red stripe. Same wires that run to the EFI relay socket, with the exception of ground (solid brown).

******Make sure you have a good ground on pin 1 of the EFI relay socket.******
You should also hear/feel the EFI relay click when installing it in the socket with the key ON. CHECK THIS FIRST.

When checking connectors, check BOTH sides to make sure you have continuity through the connector.
Check for constant +12 on pin 2 of EB1. That feeds the ECU constant +12 from the EFI fuse (red/yellow).
Check for +12 with the key ON on pin 4 of EB1 (solid red). That is the logic from the ECU that fires the relay.
Check for +12 with the key ON on pin 3 of EB1 (yellow/red). This feeds +12 to the ECU and to the rest of the EFI system.

 

[Demonic92]

I assume you know NOT to remove the 2 Phillips screws on the AFM housing to remove the connector.

No +12 on the diagnostic connector pin 8 means the EFI relay is not closed OR while messing with the fender mounted relay box, you inadvertently knocked connector EB1 OR broke a wire/connector on the bottom of the relay box. EB1 runs the show for power in and out of the EFI relay. It lives slightly inboard and below the relay box with 3 wires. Red/yellow stripe; solid red; yellow/red stripe. Same wires that run to the EFI relay socket, with the exception of ground (solid brown).

View attachment 3600987

******Make sure you have a good ground on pin 1 of the EFI relay socket.******
You should also hear/feel the EFI relay click when installing it in the socket with the key ON. CHECK THIS FIRST.

When checking connectors, check BOTH sides to make sure you have continuity through the connector.
Check for constant +12 on pin 2 of EB1. That feeds the ECU constant +12 from the EFI fuse (red/yellow).
Check for +12 with the key ON on pin 4 of EB1 (solid red). That is the logic from the ECU that fires the relay.
Check for +12 with the key ON on pin 3 of EB1 (yellow/red). This feeds +12 to the ECU and to the rest of the EFI system.

The relay did in fact click when I pulled it in and out with the key on. I found the EB1 connector and jiggled it/squeezed it and the CEL came back, the car started. Thank you @jonheld, you're a wizard.

 

[jonheld]

The relay did in fact click when I pulled it in and out with the key on. I found the EB1 connector and jiggled it/squeezed it and the CEL came back, the car started. Thank you @jonheld, you're a wizard.

You might want to separate that connector and clean the contacts. If it's intermittent, it will leave you stranded at the most inconvenient time.