Wit's End Turbo Owners - Thread #2.....
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Trans cooler is in and plumbed…IC is in and access holes have been cut for the silicone 90’s bringing the plumbing into the engine bay…will clock the turbo next weeekend and plumb in the intercooler…looks like it’ll play nice going by eyeball
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@haulin auss — Are you still getting "compressor oil sweat"?
FWIW I found a guy that makes a port match billet drain that seems to help stop oil backing up.
From my conversations with Borg it’s likely due to the drain not flowing enough causing it to back up and flow through the journal bearing seals.
Still get 0 oil in my radium catch can on the PCV minus a light film.
I replaced my drain fitting and switched to a stainless flex AN10 end drain hose.
Drain fitting
So far it seems happier. I also moved to a 7 layer Grimmspeed flange gasket which helped seal up the turbo to J pipe.
Heatshield products form fit heat shielding has worked great so far on the exhaust components for heat management as well.
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Thanks, Peter.
I'll reach out to Crips to see if they will manufacture more. Logically, that seems like the biggest difference as a braided line should flow more volume than those flexible joint ones,
What symptom led you to replace the flange gasket with Grimmspeed unit?
Mainly going through 3 two layer gaskets and having leaks start after a few hundred to few k miles in the last couple years.
Above is the turbo flange during tear down.
Also replaced hardware with the correct wedge lock washers and flange nuts, which should help.
The flex line while will slow flow slightly due to the ribs, has a much larger ID than the braided type. Digging through a lot of diesel forums where this is a more common turbo use, lots eventually made the same change of drain and saw better results.
Oh damn, I wonder if your J-Pipe flange is slightly warped (which the thicker gasket helps with).
Very interesting on the flex hose. I assumed since 10AN fitting that ID would be the same. Do you happen to have the part number or manufacturer of the hose you have so I can copy your setup (I'm getting more compressor oil sweat than I want)?
Very interesting on the flex hose. I assumed since 10AN fitting that ID would be the same. Do you happen to have the part number or manufacturer of the hose you have so I can copy your setup (I'm getting more compressor oil sweat than I want)?
I’m using the 10an/60cm part. It still has the same choke at Inlet and outlet but seems to allow enough flow out of the turbo it’s not backing up into the housing now. FWIW I read about 95 psi on the oil sensor I have next to the feed line so it’s getting a lot of pressure to the inlet.
I bought it from the us inventory which is annoying to make sure you find on the site. Click around the site/their eBay page to find the correct one in stock.
Drain line
I did check the flange with a flat bar and it was a tad warped, part of the thicker gasket decision.
The few extra mm also seemed to help line the downpipe up better with both the WG and exhaust.
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That looks familiar!
Seriously though, heatshield Armor is legit
I haven't noticed any oil sweat in awhile. Really my only continued issue has been getting a good seal on the turbo to downpipe flange. I think @Wompom said he was using a sealer on that joint but I haven't had time to pursue it further.
Toyota used a 19mm turbo oil drain hose and barbs on 80series 1hd-t diesels.
10AN hose is ~1/2" or 13mm I/D. 10AN fitting has a 12mm I/D.
Big difference in cross section and laminar flow resistance. Cross sectional area of a 19mm hose is approximately 2x that of a 12mm fitting (10AN male fitting I/D)
1hd-t hose for reference. Super short. Direct path, only one bend.
Obviously a custom install needs a different hose, but as big as possible, and as short and simple as possible would be the best practice.
60 cm hose sounds long, but I'm not acquainted with the finer details of these installs
Use 5052-o tube for drain, or soft copper. Will flow superior to that ribbed tube.
Tube and hose have different inside diameters for the same size. One is an outside measurement while the other is an inside measurement, when talking about AN sizes.
Minimum size for drain is a true 1/2” id.
Tube and hose have different inside diameters for the same size. One is an outside measurement while the other is an inside measurement, when talking about AN sizes.
Minimum size for drain is a true 1/2” id.
I was hoping to get some feedback from guys running turbos on stock OBDII ECUs and I am not sure of a better place to ask this. I put together a turbo setup similar to a witsend (external gate, j pipe, stock exhaust, stock ecu, etc) but with a smaller turbo (Holset). I am a bit concerned about the AFRs I am seeing running the stock ecu right now.
I am near stoich at idle (expected), but I run right around stoich even under light boost below 3000rpm. I don't really get into the 12s until I am wide open and above maybe 2800rpm, and i never see anything richer even at WOT high RPM than maybe low 12s or high 11s in terms of AFR.
Question for the forum: is this what you are seeing as well on your stock ECU turbo setups? or is my turbo choice allowing me to get into boost too quickly to run the stock ECU.
I am near stoich at idle (expected), but I run right around stoich even under light boost below 3000rpm. I don't really get into the 12s until I am wide open and above maybe 2800rpm, and i never see anything richer even at WOT high RPM than maybe low 12s or high 11s in terms of AFR.
Question for the forum: is this what you are seeing as well on your stock ECU turbo setups? or is my turbo choice allowing me to get into boost too quickly to run the stock ECU.
Yep that is why the original turbo size was chosen. You can easily be in boost too quickly with a small turbo. You can back the boost way down with a waste gate and hope for the best or get a standalone computer to be able to control the fueling and timing.
Thanks for the quick reply. Yeah, that validates my thinking. My plans are to go with a standalone and injectors asap. I have an intercooler as well. In the mean time maybe I'll try and pull boost down to 3-4psi and hopefully limp it around instead of undoing all the work so far.
What do you expect to see on a stock ecu (witsend kit) in boost? low 11s?
What do you expect to see on a stock ecu (witsend kit) in boost? low 11s?
In boost around 5-6psi yes you should see 11's. And I see you are in Michigan so the very cold weather will exacerbate things as the very cold air is very dense and will actually increase AFR's on a stock setup.