Wit's End Turbo Owners - Thread #2.....
- Thread starter OutlawMike
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I'm currently running an innovate SCG-1 for boost control/wideband (subject to change as I move to a standalone) but currently running a 4psi spring and a 3 port solenoid.
Light boost/part pedal I see around 3-5psi
I have boost control set to 7psi (easily achievable above 2400rpm with heavy pedal)
Truck is 160k, but its a fresh (ish) build ~5000mi on a brand new OEM shortblock and I went though the head/had it cleaned up. MLS headgasket, arp studs, kelford valve springs. Injectors were reman units with the new engine, new fuel pump, fuel filter, pressure regulator, etc all at the same time.
As @scottryana mentioned I am probably also struggling due to current temps here (single digits) making the air extra dense.
Light boost/part pedal I see around 3-5psi
I have boost control set to 7psi (easily achievable above 2400rpm with heavy pedal)
Truck is 160k, but its a fresh (ish) build ~5000mi on a brand new OEM shortblock and I went though the head/had it cleaned up. MLS headgasket, arp studs, kelford valve springs. Injectors were reman units with the new engine, new fuel pump, fuel filter, pressure regulator, etc all at the same time.
As @scottryana mentioned I am probably also struggling due to current temps here (single digits) making the air extra dense.
- Thread starter
- #224
A little late on my reply:
Running a boost T with the Wit's End wastegate running 8.5 PSI springs. I have the boost T adjusted for a max 10 PSI boost.
The boost T also has a feature to reduce wastegate creep, so, it comes on boost a little faster.
When I really get on it I overshoot 10 PSI and the boost alarm goes off. I see 10.3 PSI before the wastegate catches up and gets it back down to 10.
I am running Landtank Scaled Injector Kit with a Supra fuel pump. I do not see any lean conditions.
I swapped in a ZF8HP75 transmission two years ago and it really woke up the turbo swap. I stay in the boost during shifts now and pulls like mad.
182,000 miles.
Running a boost T with the Wit's End wastegate running 8.5 PSI springs. I have the boost T adjusted for a max 10 PSI boost.
The boost T also has a feature to reduce wastegate creep, so, it comes on boost a little faster.
When I really get on it I overshoot 10 PSI and the boost alarm goes off. I see 10.3 PSI before the wastegate catches up and gets it back down to 10.
I am running Landtank Scaled Injector Kit with a Supra fuel pump. I do not see any lean conditions.
I swapped in a ZF8HP75 transmission two years ago and it really woke up the turbo swap. I stay in the boost during shifts now and pulls like mad.
182,000 miles.
- Thread starter
- #225
Found a boost leak location - EGR Vacuum Modulator Valve
A lot of guys are probably not running their EGR valve, but, if you are, the Vacuum Modulator Valve is a potential boost leak location.
A few weeks back I noticed getting on the freeway that I was not hitting 10 PSI boost when I railed it. Got out the Amazon smoke machine and found smoke pouring out of the EGR Vacuum Modulator Valve. Looks like I blew that thing open with the higher boost.
I picked up three check valves and installed them on the vacuum lines. No more smoke comes out, and I am hitting max boost just like before.
If you find you are not hitting the boost you think you should be, smoke the engine and pay attention to the Vacuum Modulator Valve.
Mike
A lot of guys are probably not running their EGR valve, but, if you are, the Vacuum Modulator Valve is a potential boost leak location.
A few weeks back I noticed getting on the freeway that I was not hitting 10 PSI boost when I railed it. Got out the Amazon smoke machine and found smoke pouring out of the EGR Vacuum Modulator Valve. Looks like I blew that thing open with the higher boost.
I picked up three check valves and installed them on the vacuum lines. No more smoke comes out, and I am hitting max boost just like before.
If you find you are not hitting the boost you think you should be, smoke the engine and pay attention to the Vacuum Modulator Valve.
Mike
G
I’ll run another smoke test to see if this one is torched. Good idea on the check valves
Interesting. I had one fail one me that was old and figured it was just worn out.
I’ll run another smoke test to see if this one is torched. Good idea on the check valves
If if your vacuum lines are holding and you still lack the boost, look at the exhaust system…mine was a new OEM system maybe 4 years old and restricted boost like you wouldn’t believe..custom 3” from the down pipe back got me all the boost I had paid for
Just following up on this in case its helpful for anybody in the future.
I was running a set of "bosch style" reman injectors from cruiserparts, they were an older version that what they seem to currently be selling. Based on googling part numbers I believe they were actually slightly lower flow than the OE denso units.
I freshened up my set of stock injectors and put them in and the truck was happy running around 5-6psi. Fuel trims seemed better as well.
I ended up moving to a standalone/bigger injectors which makes it a non-issue, but just a warning about non OE injectors.
Anyone had issues with heat and the MAF housing cracking? While installing a few T clamps on the turbo side silicone hoses yesterday, one too many ugga tuggas and she snapped in half. 15hrs of cure with epoxy steel and it seems gtg, just curious if there's something I can do to prevent future mishaps?
Seems like a combo of heat and up/down pressure from the silicone hoses caused it to break. Break point circled in red. Of note, the top of the MAF sensor (black rectangle with silver sticker) leaves an indentation on my hood insulation.
Also...why is there an aluminum "S" pipe between turbo and throttle body? Those 4x connections have been the bane of my existence since I bought this kit. Anyone make a silicone one piece hose that would fit?
Seems like a combo of heat and up/down pressure from the silicone hoses caused it to break. Break point circled in red. Of note, the top of the MAF sensor (black rectangle with silver sticker) leaves an indentation on my hood insulation.
Also...why is there an aluminum "S" pipe between turbo and throttle body? Those 4x connections have been the bane of my existence since I bought this kit. Anyone make a silicone one piece hose that would fit?
I’m looking to see why my air intake is leaking air. Just before the MAF, on the air filter box side.
I had some shade tree mechanic look at the rig while driving across country & I think I lost parts.
I currently have it wrapped in duct tape as a temporary fix.
Based on the photo on the post right above this post, the photo shows where I think I’m missing the piece, just on the other side of the med, not the circled red side.
Is there an internal rubber boot connecting the two metal parts? I can’t put a metal band clamp on it, they are metal & won’t cinch tight.
I’ll post my rig, but it’s covered in duct tape. The post above mine shows the connection I need too, just on the air box side of the MAF.
I had some shade tree mechanic look at the rig while driving across country & I think I lost parts.
I currently have it wrapped in duct tape as a temporary fix.
Based on the photo on the post right above this post, the photo shows where I think I’m missing the piece, just on the other side of the med, not the circled red side.
Is there an internal rubber boot connecting the two metal parts? I can’t put a metal band clamp on it, they are metal & won’t cinch tight.
I’ll post my rig, but it’s covered in duct tape. The post above mine shows the connection I need too, just on the air box side of the MAF.
Hard to tell with the tape, but i bet your MAF housing cracked apart on the front side of the screen. Same issue I had, only on the opposite side.
Take the tape off and snap a picture.
Take the tape off and snap a picture.
Ok, photos taken with tape removed.
I can easily pull the two sections apart by hand.
It seems like something is missing. Maybe a bracket to hold the two sections together?
I can easily pull the two sections apart by hand.
It seems like something is missing. Maybe a bracket to hold the two sections together?
Yes, there's a metal bracket that joins them together (should be bronze/silver). You can see it in my photo to the lower right of red circle, but i chopped it down in size and painted black.
It does look like my MAF is upside down from yours.
I do recall a wire coming loose & it being repaired before. So it could have been reoriented to not tug on the wires?
It does appear there is an L-shaped bracket in your photo that I may be missing.
It attaches with 2 bolts on the MAF, and one bolt connecting another bracket together.
I do recall a wire coming loose & it being repaired before. So it could have been reoriented to not tug on the wires?
It does appear there is an L-shaped bracket in your photo that I may be missing.
It attaches with 2 bolts on the MAF, and one bolt connecting another bracket together.
You beat me to my own reply about that bracket.
It doesn’t look like that bracket would work on mine since the MAF is turned around?
Hard to tell if you chopped that bracket.
If anyone can confirm, that should be easy to locate & cheap.
But I don’t want to buy the bracket if it won’t fit my current MAF orientation.
Also looks like I’m missing a bronze-colored bolt insert…
Looks like your MAF was rotated 180 degrees to accomodate the wiring harness. It's a tight fit between the intake elbow, but it does barely fit.
Am I going to have a make a custom bracket, or will the OEM bracket fit if the MAF is 180 degrees out?
Either custom bracket or find the OEM and rotate MAF. One note, my MAF sensor housing (black rectangular box) makes contact with the under hood lining in this orientation.
The band clamp on your air filter side doesn't appear to be doing anything, I suppose you could find a silicone adapter and then clamp at that location.
I like the silicone adapter idea.
Sounds easy & simple.
I particularly like that idea because the pipes pull apart so easily.
Cinching over the metal tubes at both sides sounds more comprehensive then bolting/cinching the 2 pipes together.
Yes, there is an internal rubber boot/seal, but how easily they pull apart doesn’t inspire confidence.
Sounds easy & simple.
I particularly like that idea because the pipes pull apart so easily.
Cinching over the metal tubes at both sides sounds more comprehensive then bolting/cinching the 2 pipes together.
Yes, there is an internal rubber boot/seal, but how easily they pull apart doesn’t inspire confidence.
I went to look at the outer housing on each side.
A silicone hose section wouldn’t really work.
The MAF side has very little room to establish a clamp securely.
The air filter side has the bracket mounting face that flares out to not accept a silicone hose to slide onto.
It still seems like a bracket would only hold it secure on one side, is that sufficient?
Is that the way the OEM set up works? It seals enough not to pull ‘dirty air’?
A silicone hose section wouldn’t really work.
The MAF side has very little room to establish a clamp securely.
The air filter side has the bracket mounting face that flares out to not accept a silicone hose to slide onto.
It still seems like a bracket would only hold it secure on one side, is that sufficient?
Is that the way the OEM set up works? It seals enough not to pull ‘dirty air’?