Wit's End Turbo Owners - Thread #2.....

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Edit - answered my own question here:

Need to ask a question I'm afraid to know the answer to... I pulled the hose off the intake side of the turbo today as I needed to troubleshoot a bad IAC. Just for giggles, I grabbed the shaft nut on the front of the impeller and wiggled it - there is some play there... it's not a lot, but some. Please tell me that's normal?!?!?
 
Jeff Elliott said:
Edit - answered my own question here:

Need to ask a question I'm afraid to know the answer to... I pulled the hose off the intake side of the turbo today as I needed to troubleshoot a bad IAC. Just for giggles, I grabbed the shaft nut on the front of the impeller and wiggled it - there is some play there... it's not a lot, but some. Please tell me that's normal?!?!?
Click to expand...

Some play is normal. Theres gotta be somewhere for the oil to lubricate. Shouldn’t be able to touch anywhere though.
 
Hi folks - Turning to this thread to see if you might be able to point me in the right direction... I'm at "wits end" trying to figure out what's causing my very rough idle and very lean condition (idling at 17 - 18). I've chronicled my turmoil here including a couple of videos of what it sounds like. Short version:
  • Had dead battery, jumped off and it ran rough as hell
  • Charged battery, rough condition went away for several restarts
  • Randomly, started it and rough condition returned
  • Symptoms are:
    • Starts fine cold, normal high idle, runs as smooth as a sewing machine
    • Upon beginning to warm up, rough running starts to appear
    • Once idle gets to normal, feels like a diesel - obviously stumbling
    • Revving does smooth it out some but not completely
    • Running lean... too lean for me to do anything but let it idle / rev a bit with no load
  • Trouble shooting efforts include:
    • Removed and cleaned throttle body (it was still clean from my turbo install)
    • Removed and cleaned / tested IAC - as near as I can tell it works
    • Removed plugs - #6 looked different. I've switched #6 for #1 but I can't / haven't ran it enough to see much
    • Sprayed carb cleaner all over to verify no vacuum leaks - no idle up
  • Recently new but pre-dates issues:
    • All rubber lines under hood
    • Charcoal cannister
    • Plugs have about 1k miles on them
    • O2 sensors have about 500 miles on them
    • Installed new injectors with turbo 1k ago
I'm stumped... Best guess is a bad injector on #6. I would try to do the mechanics stethoscope trick to see if it's clicking but it's impossible to reach that one. Would appreciate any advice you can share!!! I would just have it towed to my local LC specialist but with the turbo I'm worried that's what they will blame first (which I believe has nothing to do with these issues).
 
Jeff Elliott said:
Hi folks - Turning to this thread to see if you might be able to point me in the right direction... I'm at "wits end" trying to figure out what's causing my very rough idle and very lean condition (idling at 17 - 18). I've chronicled my turmoil here including a couple of videos of what it sounds like. Short version:
  • Had dead battery, jumped off and it ran rough as hell
  • Charged battery, rough condition went away for several restarts
  • Randomly, started it and rough condition returned
  • Symptoms are:
    • Starts fine cold, normal high idle, runs as smooth as a sewing machine
    • Upon beginning to warm up, rough running starts to appear
    • Once idle gets to normal, feels like a diesel - obviously stumbling
    • Revving does smooth it out some but not completely
    • Running lean... too lean for me to do anything but let it idle / rev a bit with no load
  • Trouble shooting efforts include:
    • Removed and cleaned throttle body (it was still clean from my turbo install)
    • Removed and cleaned / tested IAC - as near as I can tell it works
    • Removed plugs - #6 looked different. I've switched #6 for #1 but I can't / haven't ran it enough to see much
    • Sprayed carb cleaner all over to verify no vacuum leaks - no idle up
  • Recently new but pre-dates issues:
    • All rubber lines under hood
    • Charcoal cannister
    • Plugs have about 1k miles on them
    • O2 sensors have about 500 miles on them
    • Installed new injectors with turbo 1k ago
I'm stumped... Best guess is a bad injector on #6. I would try to do the mechanics stethoscope trick to see if it's clicking but it's impossible to reach that one. Would appreciate any advice you can share!!! I would just have it towed to my local LC specialist but with the turbo I'm worried that's what they will blame first (which I believe has nothing to do with these issues).
Click to expand...
Jeff, the next steps, according to the manual, are as @jjdeneen918 said above, to check the MAF connection and the ECM conenctions (Page DI-115 in the manual).
1727375589474.png
 
Before you take to your local land cruiser specialist, bring it by and let me take a look at it. I owe you for the press anyway.
 
Update - my issue was a bad spark plug. Only 3k miles old. Changed it out and everything was smooth again. How often are you guys swapping out plugs?
 
Jeff Elliott said:
Update - my issue was a bad spark plug. Only 3k miles old. Changed it out and everything was smooth again. How often are you guys swapping out plugs?
Click to expand...
Which cylinder spark plug was the culprit? How did the plugs look? At 3K I'd start looking into why that one failed. FSM states 30K mile intervals. With the C&C setup, which is using Denso plugs, I am recommending half that just to be on the safe side.
 
Jeff Elliott said:
Update - my issue was a bad spark plug. Only 3k miles old. Changed it out and everything was smooth again. How often are you guys swapping out plugs?
Click to expand...

They're $5 consumable parts made in huge volumes. Even the highest quality production processes ship a few bad parts every now and then. Replace it and carry on.
 
Cruisers and Co said:
Which cylinder spark plug was the culprit? How did the plugs look? At 3K I'd start looking into why that one failed. FSM states 30K mile intervals. With the C&C setup, which is using Denso plugs, I am recommending half that just to be on the safe side.
Click to expand...
Can see the plugs in this thread. They were Densos as well. If memory serves, it was one step cooler than stock.
 
Has anyone rotated the air box cover and mimicked Cruisers and co method of air routing…would get air supply away from the hot side of the turbo and reduce the number of turns.

Also had the truck running now for a solid week…makes 3psi…smoked the intake and have some vacuum leaks under the intake manifold…
The increase in power is very nice even at only 3psi…I’m hoping the vac leaks are the culprit for low boost
 
Fosters said:
Has anyone rotated the air box cover and mimicked Cruisers and co method of air routing…would get air supply away from the hot side of the turbo and reduce the number of turns.

Also had the truck running now for a solid week…makes 3psi…smoked the intake and have some vacuum leaks under the intake manifold…
The increase in power is very nice even at only 3psi…I’m hoping the vac leaks are the culprit for low boost
Click to expand...
This is why we chose to put the intake forward.
If there was enough interest we could put together a kit for those that want to move away from how WE routed the intake. Silicone, clamps, maf extension harness, tubing. Make it a bit easier.

What did you smoke on the intake?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

thebokworm
hdt turbo, questions
Replies
2
Views
379
mudgudgeon
mudgudgeon
thebokworm
Turbo setup for 1hz
Replies
0
Views
343
thebokworm
thebokworm
R
Turbo Noise
Replies
7
Views
946
Rakaposhi
R
marto24
  • Question Question
Flickering red turbo light
Replies
4
Views
939
Rotping
R

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 1 (members: 0, guests: 1)

Share this page

Back
Top Bottom