Wit's End Turbo Owners - Thread #2..... (4 Viewers)

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Awesome stuff. I too am running the Landtank Scaled Injector kit and boost T and 8psi spring with great results. AFRs read 10.6-10.8 at WOT, and no indication of ping or detonation. Considering adding methanol injection, but the large turbo has really helped to keep the IATs down.

If anyone is interested, I have one of those Landtank Scaled Injector kits for sale that was meant for the other rig. Will be trying a stand-alone ECU with that one.
Shmaybe... Let me dig into my files. It was a hybrid effort. At first I tried to use some mounts from Solve Function. Outsane is a vendor on here. Those did not work, so I modified 1/2 of his mount and printed another half. I would need to do some 3D work to get a straight 3D printed "clean" version. I meant to finalize the design, but got pulled off on other stuff once it worked. Solve Function does offer a mount for another gauge, so, maybe he would be interested in offering this to the community and I could be out of the loop.
 
Shmaybe... Let me dig into my files. It was a hybrid effort. At first I tried to use some mounts from Solve Function. Outsane is a vendor on here. Those did not work, so I modified 1/2 of his mount and printed another half. I would need to do some 3D work to get a straight 3D printed "clean" version. I meant to finalize the design, but got pulled off on other stuff once it worked. Solve Function does offer a mount for another gauge, so, maybe he would be interested in offering this to the community and I could be out of the loop.
Ok, no worries. I thought it might be something easy for you, but if it's some work then I wouldn't worry about it. Having SolveFunction do it might be a good idea.
 
What stand alone ECU are you looking at using? I have another big project in the works that is intended to use a stock ECU, but my fall back is to switch to a stand alone if I cannot make that work.
I plan on a Haltech Elite 2500. I have a Haltech Elite 750 on my supercharged 3.4 Tacoma with great results.
 
One of the good things about the 2500 over the 750 is the 2500 can control the idle air control while the 750 cannot
Thanks Scotty,

Will be trying my Supra ECU sleight of hand in February, see if that actually works. If not, then I will need to go the route of a standalone controller. I will dig into the Haltech 2500, but if it has your seal of approval, then it will most likely work just fine.
 
Ok, no worries. I thought it might be something easy for you, but if it's some work then I wouldn't worry about it. Having SolveFunction do it might be a good idea.
I will put this on my list of many things to do and approach him. I do not want to get into selling things, but he already has a business that sells 3D printed parts, so, it may be a good fit for him.
 
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Ok…officially in
Big thanks to @TYM4FUN for the opportunity
And fed ex delivered early

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Ok…officially in
Big thanks to @TYM4FUN for the opportunity
And fed ex delivered early
Congrats. You may have the last WE turbo kit to be installed. Not sure if any other kits are on the shelf out there that have not been installed.

A couple of tips:

If you are going to run a wideband gauge in the downpipe, put the sensor in now, when you are doing the install. Adding it after the downpipe is installed and the blanket is wired up is a bit of a pain.

If you plan on running an EGT sensor, the best place to put that is in the inlet of the turbine housing. Drill and tap a 1/8" NPT hole in the turbine housing inlet (take it off the turbo to do that).

Mike
 
Congrats. You may have the last WE turbo kit to be installed. Not sure if any other kits are on the shelf out there that have not been installed.
There's at least one more (mine), since I'm in CA and was waiting for the CARB cert............. Haven't gotten around to putting it up for sale.
 
I kind of ended up with what Lutz is selling, but using the 14:1 gauge kit from JRP in Australia. I made a 3D printed mount that sandwiches the opening for the clock and allows me to put the 14:1 display in that spot. JRP just came out with their version 2.5 for the display and the controller. It now supports a trans fluid temp sensor and OBDII support.



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That mount is great. Any chance you'd share your STL so I could print one of these up? Where'd you run the controller to?

Nevermind, didn't see your response above.
 
Ok…officially in
Big thanks to @TYM4FUN for the opportunity
And fed ex delivered early

Welcome the boosted side...prepare for more fun and fuel.

Another tip...
If you think you may want to have the turbo cerakoted...do it now or you'll probably never do it 🙃
It's also a great time to get headers and heat shields cleaned and coated.
 
Welcome the boosted side...prepare for more fun and fuel.

Another tip...
If you think you may want to have the turbo cerakoted...do it now or you'll probably never do it 🙃
It's also a great time to get headers and heat shields cleaned and coated.
^^
I didn't do it the first time and am now definitely having it done on the second go around. Would recommend based on everyone I talked to.
 
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Welcome the boosted side...prepare for more fun and fuel.

Another tip...
If you think you may want to have the turbo cerakoted...do it now or you'll probably never do it 🙃
It's also a great time to get headers and heat shields cleaned and coated.
It’s really a good time to do anything you will remotely consider doing later on.
I had to “go back in there” again when I installed:
1. sensors for gauges
2. downpipe blanket
3. fuel injectors for Landtank kit
4. upgraded alternator
5. Dual battery kit and Ron Davis radiator

Had I known how much time would have been saved if I just installed these things at the same time the turbo went it, I’d have waited. I have a methanol injection kit that’s been on my shelf nearing on a year because I don’t want to take everything apart again.
 
25k miles on my kit and overall its been great. I've been daily driving it since the turbo was installed with minimal issues.

Some problems I have had (and some I'm still having):
  1. First thing that happened was trouble holding boost. Got a smoke kit and found quite a few leaks but it ended up being the EGR Modulator. I saw that others like @CJK have had this issue with used modulators but the odd thing for me was mine was brand new with the full rebuild I did in 2019/2020. I bypassed & disabled the EGR system and everything has been great. There were various other leaks I tightend up, the smoke machine kit is great.
  2. I had an oil leak from my turbo supply line after the first few heat cycles. Tightened it all up and no problem since.
  3. I have the same "compressor oil sweat" that @Wompom has on the bottom of the compressor housing. I thought it was the loose oil supply but persisted after. Nothing leaking from the oil drain either, and I tightened up the compressor housing with no luck as well. I take apart the intake every ~5k miles to check on things and there's always oil in the silicone elbow feeding the compressor. I added a dual catch can kit but I get almost no oil in the can feeding the turbo intake, lots of oil (comparably) in the PCV catch can though, and still the same amount of oil in the intake. I'm starting to think its an oil drain issue backing up oil and pushing it past the bearing but don't really have a way to test that.
  4. A few times (but rarely considering how heavy its used) this summer I would start the truck like normal and 15-30s later it would slowly stumble and stall. It only happened on very hot days when the truck was already warm. Every time I restarted the truck I would let the fuel pump prime the system then it would start up fine. I've figured it was a fuel pressure VSV issue but maybe I should be checking compression. I'm about to pull the plugs for the first time since turbo install so we'll see what those look like too.
Some feedback/lessons learned:
  • I should have gone with a lamba AFR gauge and vacuum/boost gauge from the start instead of an old school wideband and simple boost gauge.
  • The smoke machine kit is a wonderful tool.
  • The turbo blanket is fantastic but I wish I had ceramic coated as well, the heat is no joke.
  • Despite all the heat, I've never had an overheating issue. I agree with others that the intercooler isn't required with this setup but I will be installing one moving forward.
  • Since installed, I've never had a single CEL so the OEM ECU definitely can handle it. Not surprising since it runs quite rich all the time. Similar to the intercooler, I'll be doing a Haltech 2500 moving forward.
Overall I love the turbo 1FZ though. I'm considering selling the 80 for a new cruiser that fits my family's needs a bit better but I will definitely be building another turbo 1FZ in whatever I replace it with. It pulls like an absolute weapon when the turbo spools and it honestly seems like the power on tap is endless sometimes.

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The smoke machine kit is a wonderful tool
can you share the one you have had success with? i've been looking at getting a kit to help identify intake leaks on both NA and boosted engines, but Amazon has some that are a glorified paint can all the way to pro shop level gear. i think i want one a bit nicer than a paint can.
 
can you share the one you have had success with? i've been looking at getting a kit to help identify intake leaks on both NA and boosted engines, but Amazon has some that are a glorified paint can all the way to pro shop level gear. i think i want one a bit nicer than a paint can.

At the end of the day, they’re pretty much a paint can with a pressure regulator. Doesn’t need to be a whole lot more sophisticated.

This is the one I’ve been using and it’s been great. I got the cone attachment which works wonderfully for the exhaust and intake.


Looks like they make one with an air compressor built in for only a little more, I’d probably go that route if it had existed when I purchased.
 
can you share the one you have had success with? i've been looking at getting a kit to help identify intake leaks on both NA and boosted engines, but Amazon has some that are a glorified paint can all the way to pro shop level gear. i think i want one a bit nicer than a paint can.
I may or may not have bought an AUTOOLS one from amazon, used it, then returned it 🙃
It's now $125 and I probably would have kept it at that price. Built-in compressor means just pour in some mineral oil, connect to the battery and let it go to work.
 

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