Why E-Locker Should Be Locked Before Pulling Axle Shafts (1 Viewer)

[mingles]

I have often read on MUD, and I believe it is recommended in the FSM, that to pull the axles on an E-locked truck the locker should be in the locked position. This is to make it possible to reinsert the axles without difficulty upon reassembly. It is one of those steps that just I did because it was recommended, without knowing why.

Now I know why. Inquiring minds read on …

When you see the locker in a disassembled diff, it becomes pretty evident the rationale for this procedure. When the locker is unlocked, the locking collar just “floats” on the axle shaft, with the shaft holding the collar in alignment with the differential, ready to slide into the locked position when given the signal to. With the shafts removed, in an unlocked position, that locking collar that was “floating” drops out of alignment with the rest of the differential. The shafts will come out easy in an unlocked state, but when you try to reinsert them they will slide in only to where they hit the out-of-alignment locking collar. In the locked position, the locking collar has dogs that mesh with matching dogs on the differential and is held in place whether the axles are inserted or not.

And because we all like pictures …

 

[danthman114]

I didn't lock mine in. it went together perfectly

 

[mingles]

Yup ... Sometimes you get lucky. I have heard the tale go both ways on MUD.

 

[NateMob]

Cool post. Thank you for taking pictures and explaining!

 

[scottryana]

Yep I wouldn't want to risk not locking it.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

Yup ... Sometimes you get lucky. I have heard the tale go both ways on MUD.

▲THIS▲

 

[KLF]

You can't pull the front e-locker diff out of the housing unless it's locked, BTW.

 

[pvhobo]

I retrofitted two high pinion e-lockers, one in my 85 Toyota 4wd and one in my fj80, both went in and back out with out being locked, the rear did have to be locked

 

[KLF]

I've installed several TRD e-lockers in minis. I guess if you pulled all the studs, you could tilt it out of the housing. But unlocked, the locking fork and cog wont come straight out through the notch.

Rear 80-series e-locker is no problem, it doesn't stick out as far.

 

[Wompom]

I was just debating this. I have the whole drivetrain (engine, trans & t-case) out and was going to rebuild the front axle while the machine shop has my block & head. I cant lock it since the whole thing is torn apart but the consensus sounded like i'd be fine. You're making me think twice on it now...

 

[KLF]

If the diff is out of the axle, you can easily lock it by hand. Just push the fork/cog. This is assuming the actuator isn't installed.

If the diff is still in the axle, remove the actuator, you can move the fork with a screwdriver.

If the actuator is installed, you can lock/unlock it with a cordless drill battery.

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

I always wondered this. Thanks. Im glad I lucked out last time I did my PS spindle.

 

[cruiserdan]

The rear diff does not need to be locked as long as you have a ~5 foot fiberglass CB antenna on the truck. Your buddy can hold your beer and eyeball it from the opposite side as you re-align the collar with the antenna..

 

[hammerheadfistpunch]

The rear diff does not need to be locked as long as you have a ~5 foot fiberglass CB antenna on the truck. Your buddy can hold your beer and eyeball it from the opposite side as you re-align the collar with the antenna..

This is the main reason I bought a 5 foot-long CB antenna. Thanks for validating my purchase Dan!

 

[cruiserdan]

 

[pappy]

Rear 80-series e-locker is no problem, it doesn't stick out as far.

Actually, it is a problem if a rear FZJ80 e-locker is installed in the front of an FJ40. BTDT. I think I used a broomstick from the other side to get it lined back up.

 

[fjgoober]

GOOD INFO, I never thought about it.

I assume this would go for the front as well? I've never tore apart the front. I will need to redo the inner axle soon on a rig.

However, the majority of the time I've pulled axles is out on the side of the hill/rock and it was so I could get back in front wheel drive due to a snapped rear pinion shaft. And every time I've snapped a pinion shaft it was locked when it snapped. Another coincidence is the amount of beer that seemed to be consumed just prior to said pinion shaft snapping.

I'm thinking MR. T needs to have a recall.

 

[Azca]

▲THIS▲

If this is the case it would NEVER work for me if it wasn't locked, I am never lucky

 

[KLF]

I happen to have a TRD rear e-locker in my garage from a Tacoma, disassembled. This is essentially the same thing as a FRONT 80-series, just a mirror image since it's not a hi-pinion. Here's what the locking cog looks like unlocked:

Unless you cut the notch really deep, there's no way to get that out of the axle housing if it's locked and the studs are still installed.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

This is yet another reason the factory lockers are a pain in the ass. If you forget to lock and try to re-assemble, it won't work. Or the splines twist and you have to cut into the housing to free it up. Stupid design.

The only thing factory lockers have going for them is that they are often free with a truck. But for all other purposes, another selectable locker like Harrop or ARB is better in every way.