Why E-Locker Should Be Locked Before Pulling Axle Shafts (1 Viewer)

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I think I'm running into this long side axle install problem on my '40. I put a rear 80 elocker in the front a while back and now I'm having trouble installing new axles. Can't get the long side axle into the carrier. I didn't even think about locking the axle before disassembly. Can I just turn on the ignition and lock the axle through the switch? I would appreciate more detailed instruction on this antenna/broomstick approach.

Thanks in advance.
 
I think I'm running into this long side axle install problem on my '40. I put a rear 80 elocker in the front a while back and now I'm having trouble installing new axles. Can't get the long side axle into the carrier. I didn't even think about locking the axle before disassembly. Can I just turn on the ignition and lock the axle through the switch? I would appreciate more detailed instruction on this antenna/broomstick approach.

Thanks in advance.

You can't just activate the locker once the collar has fallen out of place. You need to get it back into place. Take a look at the thread I started when I had the same issue, I have pictures of the problem, and was able to get the collar realigned with a long rod


Cheers
 
You can't just activate the locker once the collar has fallen out of place. You need to get it back into place. Take a look at the thread I started when I had the same issue, I have pictures of the problem, and was able to get the collar realigned with a long rod


Cheers
Many many thanks for your great response. That WAS my problem. I used a length of pvc tubing to push the splined collar towards the fork. Got the axle in all the way, and managed to lock it by activating the locker on switch, then turning the front DS around and back and forth. Heard the loud click! Both wheels turned. Yahoo! The only bad thing is I stretched the marlin eco seal with all the pushing down on the axle to no avail, so will have to swap in a new one. I learned that lesson the hard way. Sometimes that's the best way.
 
I have often read on MUD, and I believe it is recommended in the FSM, that to pull the axles on an E-locked truck the locker should be in the locked position. This is to make it possible to reinsert the axles without difficulty upon reassembly. It is one of those steps that just I did because it was recommended, without knowing why.

Now I know why. Inquiring minds read on … :)

When you see the locker in a disassembled diff, it becomes pretty evident the rationale for this procedure. When the locker is unlocked, the locking collar just “floats” on the axle shaft, with the shaft holding the collar in alignment with the differential, ready to slide into the locked position when given the signal to. With the shafts removed, in an unlocked position, that locking collar that was “floating” drops out of alignment with the rest of the differential. The shafts will come out easy in an unlocked state, but when you try to reinsert them they will slide in only to where they hit the out-of-alignment locking collar. In the locked position, the locking collar has dogs that mesh with matching dogs on the differential and is held in place whether the axles are inserted or not.

And because we all like pictures …

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hi.. do u know when can i get the replacement for the locking dogs?
 
Hi ALL

I need help to source for the locker gear on the carrier side. I looked up on the part's manual but i can't find it.

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