Builds Who likes addition? (FJ-60 + 1HZ)

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Just one quick night at my folks' (I'm at work right now--teehee)

But I have been receiving things. AWESOME things.

On to the pics!

The rebuilt radiator. I had the lower outlet moved one "spot" over to the outside, and I had both outlets extended by roughly 2 inches. I will have to trim the top one just a little for sure, but this makes the stock 70 series hoses work very, very nicely.
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Next, a package from @socallove arrived. Very, very cool. Very well made, and I'm really digging the bare aluminum agains the 6L4 for the back of the truck.
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Next, a care package from @divemedic also arrived.
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He really was a huge help with getting these split rear bench seats. I was able to find tons for sale in Japan, but almost no way to get them shipped to me. Again, HUGE help, and these are just awesome.

I will feel a little bit bad that I will recover these to match the front seats, because the upholstery is in such incredibly good shape as it is.

Lastly, the rest of my electrical bits arrived for the front left electrical panel area (that's what I will call it).
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It's exactly what I was hoping for, the added relay box (8 total), and the two ATN fuse boxes. Will make for a pretty clean install of the wiring harness and the battery cables.

That's it for now! But I should be back for a couple days later this week to get more done....

Dan
 
After I posted that my mother suggested something that makes a lot of sense: recover the front seats to match the rear.

The front MUST be recovered anyway, and those rear seats are just so nice as it is, and the black and grey fits with the rest of the truck, so I think that is what I will do.

Dan
 
Snuck down for two days to work on the 60...

First off: I trimmed the body to let those beautiful aluminum cargo panels sit flush.
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Then I drill holes, and bonded in T-nuts for the split rear seats. I used the ridiculously strong panel bonding adhesive instead of welding, because welding would have messed up the monstaliner on the bottom of the body.
Just 8 holes to drill (4 on each side--very easy to locate them), using the standard US rear seat latch on the C pillar.

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And here's the seats in all their glory. You'll notice the headrests. I am using headrests from an FJ62, because I think the "frame" headrests look silly, and cruisers look best with fitting headrests. I'm using the same headrests on the front seats (which you may recall came from a PT cruiser)
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And a pic of the right seat folded forward.
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If you look carefully at the headrest in the pic above, you'll notice it's in the stowage spot that Toyota graciously included on these rear seats.
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Then, I turned my attention to the big job of the day: monstaliner!

First I masked a little...
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Then I scuffed some paint. Note: it is kind of tough to scuff such beautiful paint.
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Once it was all scuffed with scotchbrite pads thoroughly, I have it a good cleaning with M.E.K.
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With a little help from my mother, we rolled the monstaliner in in about an hour total.
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Once we had two good coats, and it had tacked up, I removed the masking tape.
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One last pic: an overview of the trim lines.
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I very much like the two-tone Olive and Grey.

That's it for now though! But at least the interior is coated, and drying (it's probably dry already--it's hot here in NM right now), so next time I can really start whipping things back together.

Dan
 
Is that their light-quartz grey color? Looks really great and has me pondering how the same lines and color would go along with Freedom Red...:hmm:
 
Is that their light-quartz grey color? Looks really great and has me pondering how the same lines and color would go along with Freedom Red...:hmm:

Medium quartz grey.

It matches an interior trim color from a 1995 jeep of some flavor. Which makes it not too difficult to get spray paint that matches it.

Dan
 
how you attach seats under the body ..?

I don't.

I HATE having a bolt and but that require two people to remove. So I bonded in threaded inserts to the body from the top, so all I do is thread in a bolt from the top of the seat.

One wrench. Easy.

EDIT--if you were wondering about reinforcement, I did not add any reinforcement. The Tee Nuts I used are just over 1" in diameter, which gives each bolt about 4 square inches of surface area--and with 4 bolts per side, and a rear attachment (which I am tying into the factory seat hold down) I'm confident in it's crash worthiness.

FURTHER EDIT--here's a pic of one of the Tee Nuts bonded in. This one is for the intercooler mounting on the front core support, but it's a clear picture of how it works. This is an M8 insert, whereas the seats use M10, and are substantially larger.
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Dan
 
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Looking good Dan, as always. That is some taping skills you have there. Doing curves over the wheel arch with 1" tape isn't easy. Nice job, I am really digging the color combo.

Thanks. If I were doing it again, I would use dedicated vinyl tape for the curves. Because that was a serious pain, and even worse was pulling the masking tape off cleanly with all the little pieces I had to use.

I very well may take the truck to a pinstriper once it is done and have them run a pinstripe along the edge just to give it a *little* extra something. But maybe not.

Dan
 
So I bonded in threaded inserts to the body from the top, so all I do is thread in a bolt from the top of the seat.

Dan .. asking to much for a pic of it and specs ( link ? ) on the inserts you use ?
 
I will get a pic next time I am in the shop. Let me see if I can find something at McMaster that similar.

We are blessed toga be an amazing hardware store that carries all sorts of goodies, and lots in metric (all that I use) too.

EDIT--Here's a link on Amazon to the type of thing I'm talking about: Amazon.com: The Hillman Group 44762 M8 x 9 x 22 Metric Tee Nut Brad Hole, 8-Pack: Home Improvement

They make Tee Nuts (or T-Nuts) in two basic flavors, with perforated holes, or with little teeth. The teeth are more useful for simply pounding them into wood, although I have found those pretty useful for fabrication by grinding off the teeth, and then welding the void where the tooth was.

But for bonding (instead of welding) I like the style I linked above. The three perforations allow the adhesive to get a better grip, although the adhesive I use is plenty strong as it is. I literally deformed the metal, through it's entire thickness where I used it to bond the hood supports to the hood skin (it's barely perceptible now, but if I screwed up my hood I might have to get another just because of that adhesive. Amazon.com: SEM 39747 Multi-Purpose Panel Adhesive - 7 oz.: Automotive Is the adhesive I use. The applicator gun is not cheap, but the gun is useful for this kind of thing, and to do things like seal the roof gutter the right way.

Dan
 
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This has been such a fun and inspiring thread to watch. Great work and can't wait to see it completed! :clap:
 
I will get a pic next time I am in the shop. Let me see if I can find something at McMaster that similar.

could not ask for anything else .. thanks !
 

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