Who else has ripped out all their interior for sound deadening and running wire? Any gotchas? (1 Viewer)

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Deadening noise is absorbing it. Dynamat will damp a given range of frequencies but some that are especially too low it will not. The foam or something thicker is typically better there.

However, things like air leaks to the outside world will let noise right on in. Loud tires reverberating off of the doors will require the doors to have some sound insulation.

Frank
 
Deadening noise is absorbing it. Dynamat will damp a given range of frequencies but some that are especially too low it will not. The foam or something thicker is typically better there.

However, things like air leaks to the outside world will let noise right on in. Loud tires reverberating off of the doors will require the doors to have some sound insulation.

Frank

no, 2 different things. Dynamat will mostly keep that panel it is adhered to from vibrating due to noise. Something else is going to work much better to actually dampen and absorb outside noise like foam or carpet. This is why dynamat is used frequently with stereo systems as it stops the vibrations coming from speakers. Also why most people need to use a combo of the butyl type of mat and some type of collecting device like foam or carpet.
 
From an engineering standpoint the dynamat is damping the panel vibrations and reducing the transfer of energy through the panel. Nothing is reducing the magnitude (damping) outside noise generated by outside stuff. Dynamat adds mass and lowers the resonant frequency which reduces the transfer of higher frequency sounds like road noise and hiss through panels to which it is attached. If sound is entering through a different panel or due to an air leak to the outside world, the dynamat on that given panel might not help. If the vibration frequency is too low, you will either need more dynamat or something else to absorb the sound.

Once the sound is in the vehicle, soft stuff like foam can reduce the reverberation of said sound though typically one tries to keep the noise out first. Both approaches might be required in the end.

Dynamat is used in hot rods and all sorts of places to reduce noise (vibrations) transferred through panels like the firewall, etc...

Noise like all mechanical vibrations needs a path to move from one place to another. If you have too much outside noise making into your truck, you need to address the paths which will include panels and on our older trucks could also include air leaks due to old weather stripping and the likes.

I guess what I am trying to point out is that for those that installed dynamat and didn't see much improvement, it's because sound is likely entering somewhere else not addressed by the dynamat. Removing what is there is probably not a good idea vs. continuing to find out how the sound is getting in. For example, a ground out (metal to metal contact between, for example, the body and frame) can introduce a lot of noise. A drain hole in a door exposed to a loud tire that once had a running board as a sound reflector could introduce noise.

Frank
 
I plan to do this my truck over the next two weeks. I picked up some spray on sound deadener to get to places I can't get the dynamat so we shall see how it goes.

Frank
 
remember the dynamat is for containing resonance and the carpet and foam are for absorption of sound......

Yep, totally agree. Don't just rely on dynamat.
I've done two cars using dynamite, and a foam product for hat and sound absorption now. Dynamat on large flat panels, including roof, then foam, tape all joints in the foam.

Makes a huge difference.

Make sure you insulate around the gear shifter hole in the trans tunnel. I was amazed at how much difference this makes.
 
I also just found during this process that whatever is supposed to seal the steering shaft against the firewall is completely gone on my truck. One more thing to seal up.

Frank
 
Yep, totally agree. Don't just rely on dynamat.
I've done two cars using dynamite, and a foam product for hat and sound absorption now. Dynamat on large flat panels, including roof, then foam, tape all joints in the foam.

Makes a huge difference.

Make sure you insulate around the gear shifter hole in the trans tunnel. I was amazed at how much difference this makes.

You're saying Butyl mat and THEN foam on top? Not the other way around?
 
Put the mat down first. That stuff helps to keep the metal from vibrating and transferring those vibrations into the air within the vehicle. It needs to stick directly do the metal to do that.

Frank
 
Yep, as above.
Dynamat sticks like s*** to a blanket, just make sure is a dust free surface.

I used a construction thermal insulation product that is closed cell foam with foil on both sides, about 1/4 thick
 
Sort of related - would dynamat help insulate the passenger foot well and transmission tunnel against heat transfer? On the 94 the catalytic converter sits close to the body and that area can get pretty warm.
 
It will help some. Any insulator will. Don't know if it will be enough though. Something thicker and less dense would be better and probably cost less too.

Trying to fab up a heat shield could also help.

Frank
 
Did the floor on mine and the factory LX had a lot of deadening already and like other have said it does not reduce noise but rattle. I intalled heat insolating carpet and it made a big difference in floor temp but still no big difference in sound. You will have less noise if you foam the doors and side panels.
 
@ZackR
Sort of related - would dynamat help insulate the passenger foot well and transmission tunnel against heat transfer? On the 94 the catalytic converter sits close to the body and that area can get pretty warm.

2 layers of EZKool will work wonders on the heat on the trans tunnel and the floor!
 
plan out your electrics and wiring and ensure you get that in (you can put under the buytl layer) with routing from front to back - both sides and then figure ou where you want your fusebox/relay center. Plenty of posts on this. do it once (wiring aspects) and then you can just connect ends as neeeded
 
I just ripped out the entire interior. Headliner and all. I did it to insulate against sound as well as temperature. also to run new wiring and remove any wiring that was not installed by Toyota.

Dynamat or equivalent will insulate against any vibrations. Sound = vibrations. Think of the butyl backed stuff as a vibration dampener.

Dynamat or equivalent will do absolutely nothing against temperature insulation. For that you need a thermal decoupler. There are plenty of products for this application.

When removing the interior there are a s*** ton of parts that come out. Have plenty of ziplock and label everything as well as take a lot of photos. Its really straight forward.
 
How was the quality of the carpet? I have been considering it for a while.
I have to say I am very impressed with the quality of the carpet. It is very comparable with stock carpet I removed. I guess the only downside is that you need to be prepared to trim the outer edges and the places where the seat mounts etc are.
I first laid a layer of thermozite then the felt that was supplied with the carpet and lastly the carpet. Not sure I noticed much difference to the sound level in cab but the carpet looks awesome..

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Nothing special. I start with entire center console, expect to find $$$ there. Don't forget to put gearshift in neutral when taking that part of console out, then put back into park.
I don't expect to find any money as I don't carry change, it goes in the Ashtray, I do however expect to find about half a box of mike and Ike's my girlfriend dumped down the side of the passenger seat and under the console lol...but good advice
 
I'd recommend leaving body bushing bolt access inside the vehicle. They'll be harder to get to if you ever have to replace them. Put a plug or something on top of the hole you leave for them. I am going to have to fight that battle sooner or later.
 

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