Wheels that work, part numbers (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Corbet
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I just called the FN Countersteer Type X rep, the price for the matte silver is $175 + $20 per wheel machining to open up the center bore to accommodate a cap. After staring at them a while, I don’t find them as objectionable as when I first looked at them, but they’re a little too pricey for me.
bwesty
SILVER Star
That tire size will work just fine on a 6" wheel.
Anyone have experience with Vision HD 70 Mod Series Silver Wheels HM70SM-6683? Ironic that they have "70" and "series" in the name! I don't like the look at all but I'm thinking of getting one to use as a spare. 16x6 with 3.5BS Bore listed on summit is apparently incorrect Vision's website lists 108mm. I'm going to be running 285/75r16s on my MT Classics so can't really use a stocker as a spare and don't want to do 5-wheel rotations or spend the extra money on a wheel and tire which will rarely see use.
PS will probably be selling 5 stock wheels and my set of decent chrome caps with "T" rears soon. Can't decide if I should sell them as a complete set or the caps separate from the wheels.
PS will probably be selling 5 stock wheels and my set of decent chrome caps with "T" rears soon. Can't decide if I should sell them as a complete set or the caps separate from the wheels.
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I wanted TRD Pro wheels ever since I saw them on @torfab ‘s 62— it’s the only 60 series I’ve seen with them. I pestered him about fit and learned he runs the Tundra brake upgrade and an 80 axle in rear so he’s got extra clearance. I knew most 4runner wheels don’t fit without spacers on stock 60 axles so thought I was SOL.
I’ve read this thread several times and looked at wheel options for probably 2 years. I wanted something modern, understated, not 16”, suitable for a pizza cutter tire, and that allowed for a wide tire selection for the forseable future.
I didn’t want 16” because I swore off E load tires after they ruined the ride on my Discovery 1 I owned several years ago and there are little to no options for a 16”/non-E.
After market wheels that would tuck in the fender, were alloy, would fit without spacers, weren’t black, and didn’t have fake beadlocks/rivets were non-existent at this point except for the FN Wheels Countersteer Type X. They’re featured earlier in this thread and were my realistic choice. For some reason, I didn’t 100% love them though. Also, they recommend machining the hub bore so more $$.
Then I realized the TRD Pro wheels’ specs weren’t that different from the Countersteer. 17x7” (fine width for my goals) and offset of +5mm/4.2” backspace. Regular 4Runner wheels are more like +20mm/4.5” backspace. So I went on a quest to test fit them and managed to get in touch with a willing local TRD pro owner. The test fit was a success despite 15 degree weather! However, I didn’t want to torque lug nuts on his wheel or put weight on it just in case.
Then I ordered my own single wheel and fit one of the tires I had scored. They are brand new BFG MT takeoffs from a Jeep JK Rubicon. All 5 for $350. Tested it out and even drove it around the neighborhood like a doofus to make sure the tie rod didn’t hit. After seeing so many issues on this thread I was really, probably overly, cautious.
Great news! Got the remaining wheels in Wednesday night and had everything mounted up tonight. Might run the rear cap-less, don’t love the red TRD. They fit perfect and drive great! If Toyota remade the 60 today this is how it should come from the factory.
Wheels: OEM TRD Pro 4Runner wheels, PTR20-35110-GR (also available in black)
Lug nuts: OEM 4runner/Tacoma, 90084-94002
Tire size: 255/75r17, ~32.1x10.0”
Spacers or other wheel modifications: none
Lift: good condition stock springs with Old Man Emu greasable shackles
First test fit (remember to paint your 555 TREs before installing
)
Second test
Final product!
I’ve read this thread several times and looked at wheel options for probably 2 years. I wanted something modern, understated, not 16”, suitable for a pizza cutter tire, and that allowed for a wide tire selection for the forseable future.
I didn’t want 16” because I swore off E load tires after they ruined the ride on my Discovery 1 I owned several years ago and there are little to no options for a 16”/non-E.
After market wheels that would tuck in the fender, were alloy, would fit without spacers, weren’t black, and didn’t have fake beadlocks/rivets were non-existent at this point except for the FN Wheels Countersteer Type X. They’re featured earlier in this thread and were my realistic choice. For some reason, I didn’t 100% love them though. Also, they recommend machining the hub bore so more $$.
Then I realized the TRD Pro wheels’ specs weren’t that different from the Countersteer. 17x7” (fine width for my goals) and offset of +5mm/4.2” backspace. Regular 4Runner wheels are more like +20mm/4.5” backspace. So I went on a quest to test fit them and managed to get in touch with a willing local TRD pro owner. The test fit was a success despite 15 degree weather! However, I didn’t want to torque lug nuts on his wheel or put weight on it just in case.
Then I ordered my own single wheel and fit one of the tires I had scored. They are brand new BFG MT takeoffs from a Jeep JK Rubicon. All 5 for $350. Tested it out and even drove it around the neighborhood like a doofus to make sure the tie rod didn’t hit. After seeing so many issues on this thread I was really, probably overly, cautious.
Great news! Got the remaining wheels in Wednesday night and had everything mounted up tonight. Might run the rear cap-less, don’t love the red TRD. They fit perfect and drive great! If Toyota remade the 60 today this is how it should come from the factory.
Wheels: OEM TRD Pro 4Runner wheels, PTR20-35110-GR (also available in black)
Lug nuts: OEM 4runner/Tacoma, 90084-94002
Tire size: 255/75r17, ~32.1x10.0”
Spacers or other wheel modifications: none
Lift: good condition stock springs with Old Man Emu greasable shackles
First test fit (remember to paint your 555 TREs before installing
)
Second test
Final product!
Last edited:
@NearJetties OH MAN, those are gorgeous. Love the grey on grey. I too ruled these out assuming I’d need spacers, I ran SR5 5th Gen 4Runner wheels for a bit with 1/4” spacers before going back to stock wheels...but due to your writeup here I may have to go get a set. Thanks a lot.
Your rear axle is stock?
Your rear axle is stock?
Great post, looks super!I wanted TRD Pro wheels ever since I saw them on @torfab ‘s 62— it’s the only 60 series I’ve seen with them. I pestered him about fit and learned he runs the Tundra brake upgrade and an 80 axle in rear so he’s got extra clearance. I knew most 4runner wheels don’t fit without spacers on stock 60 axles so thought I was SOL.
I’ve read this thread several times and looked at wheel options for probably 2 years. I wanted something modern, understated, not 16”, suitable for a pizza cutter tire, and that allowed for a wide tire selection for the forseable future.
I didn’t want 16” because I swore off E load tires after they ruined the ride on my Discovery 1 I owned several years ago and there are little to no options for a 16”/non-E.
After market wheels that would tuck in the fender, were alloy, would fit without spacers, weren’t black, and didn’t have fake beadlocks/rivets were non-existent at this point except for the FN Wheels Countersteer Type X. They’re featured earlier in this thread and were my realistic choice. For some reason, I didn’t 100% love them though. Also, they recommend machining the hub bore so more $$.
Then I realized the TRD Pro wheels’ specs weren’t that different from the Countersteer. 17x7” (fine width for my goals) and offset of +5mm/4.2” backspace. Regular 4Runner wheels are more like +20mm/4.5” backspace. So I went on a quest to test fit them and managed to get in touch with a willing local TRD pro owner. The test fit was a success despite 15 degree weather! However, I didn’t want to torque lug nuts on his wheel or put weight on it just in case.
Then I ordered my own single wheel and fit one of the tires I had scored. They are brand new BFG MT takeoffs from a Jeep JK Rubicon. All 5 for $350. Tested it out and even drove it around the neighborhood like a doofus to make sure the tie rod didn’t hit. After seeing so many issues on this thread I was really, probably overly, cautious.
Great news! Got the remaining wheels in Wednesday night and had everything mounted up tonight. Might run the rear cap-less, don’t love the red TRD. They fit perfect and drive great! If Toyota remade the 60 today this is how it should come from the factory.
Wheels: OEM TRD Pro 4Runner wheels, PTR20-35110-GR (also available in black)
Lug nuts: OEM 4runner/Tacoma, 90084-94002
Tire size: 255/75r17, ~32.1x10.0”
Spacers or other wheel modifications: none
Lift: good condition stock springs with Old Man Emu greasable shackles
First test fit (remember to paint your 555 TREs before installing
View attachment 1905523View attachment 1905524
Second test
View attachment 1905525
Final product!
View attachment 1905526View attachment 1905527
Red TRD looks fine, or get ahold of a paint pen.
100% stock
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
You'll be just fine, I've run over 40k on 33x10.5's along with hundreds and hundreds of others on here on 5.5 and 6" wide wheels respectively. I've done one rotation in the 40k so far and still have about 5k or so left on them. Truck sees highway constantly, traffic and trails aired down to 15psi...no issues at all.
Daylight photos....in a wagon down by the river.
Good to know, but I already bought 16X7 US Wheel steel wheels with a custom 3.5” backspace and BFG 33X11.5. The wheels are in the shop to be powdercoated. I’ll have them mounted hopefully late next week. I’ll post pics then.
Really dig this wheel/tire set up. My favorite of the "modern" wheels.
Yeah, I almost pulled the trigger on those. I called the sales rep but ultimately decided to go with the steelies. If I was to do it all over again I would buy the Konigs.
Yea those Konig's are pretty nice, I'm with you on aftermarket wheels, tough to find the "right" ones anymore. Those Konigs are spendy though, doubt I would've gone that far if I had known about them.
John, apologies, I never got back with you on my US wheel specifics. It was just a few days ago I found my paperwork on those. Mine are 16x8 with 3.5" bs. They are a dirt simple wagon wheel, but I like that old school basic look on these trucks. I powder coated black, my 62 is the dark charcoal gray and I find it difficult to match certain shades of gray/silver etc.. to this paint color. Decided to go with the 'dark' look, my windows are tinted as well. Looks good with the 285/75/16 Duratracs.
Look forward to some photos when you get them on.
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
I think this is the best place to put this. This afternoon I was getting my '09 Silverado ready for a trip to the Grand Canyon, and one of the things to do was to rotate the tires to get the best tread on the rear tires - snow is predicted all the way there tomorrow and Tuesday. I removed the lug nuts and the wheels would not come off. For each of the four wheels I had to reinstall the lug nuts almost all of the way, then drop the front wheels quickly to the ground to break the wheels free. For the rear wheels I had to do the same, but also drive up and down the driveway several times to break them free. The wheels are aluminum and the hubs are steel - there was some heavy-duty corrosion holding the wheels on tight. Before I reinstalled the wheels I brushed on some copper anti-seize.
Has anyone else experienced this? I'm glad I found this out in the driveway in broad daylight and not on the side of I-40 in the dark, snow, and ice if I were to have a flat along the way.
Might be something to keep in mind when choosing between steel and aluminum wheels.
Has anyone else experienced this? I'm glad I found this out in the driveway in broad daylight and not on the side of I-40 in the dark, snow, and ice if I were to have a flat along the way.
Might be something to keep in mind when choosing between steel and aluminum wheels.
@4Cruisers I’m glad you mentioned this as I was thinking about putting something similar on the mounting surface. Is copper anti-seize the best option?
4Cruisers
SILVER Star
I read somewhere that it's effective for an aluminum/steel interface, like the steel bolts through/into an aluminum thermostat housing. That's what I used when building the 3FE that went into my FJ60.
Yes, this is common. I carried a 5lb sledge in Subaru to get the wheels free from the hubs.
Copper antiseize is what I use now.
@NearJetties you're swaying me from the SCS F5s. Looks like I have to scout for some takeoffs now…
This should work with the 3.5” backspace correct?
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