Wheel Bearings Service w/Pics

[TheForger]

I didn’t drive this oil seal too far in did I? I know these can be a pain to get right so I bought 2 just in case. I kept going around it gently until I felt it basically bottom out

 

[flintknapper]

IF that is the Drivers side its a bit deep. The most important thing is to get it 'square' in the bore. From the factory the seal is just a little below the bore opening.


Looks OK if Pass side.

.

 

[TheForger]

IF that is the Drivers side its a bit deep. The most important thing is to get it 'square' in the bore. From the factory the seal is just a little below the bore opening.

It is indeed the drivers side. I wasn’t really sure how far to drive it in since there doesn’t seem to be an obvious stop aside from the inside of the axle tube which is where it resides now.

 

[TheForger]

Now that I look closer I wonder if this transition of clean vs. dirty metal is where it needs to be

 

[flintknapper]

Now that I look closer I wonder if this transition of clean vs. dirty metal is where it needs to be

View attachment 2682533

Yes, even just a 'tad' deeper if you have a groove on the CV axle.

Look at post #142

 

[2001LC]

You want flush with inner shelf as @flintknapper pictured.

This puts protruding lip level with outer diff rim. You can be out 1mm, which seats, deeper in dust shield.

Than seal protruding lip, will fit snugly into pocket of FDS dust seal.

You can save DS seal if you like. I often find I've set in a little to deep, and leaver off inner diff tube and off metal plate on back of seal .

Most important, take you time and get seated squarely. One side in more than the other, is when they leak.

 

[TheForger]

You want flush with inner shelf as @flintknapper pictured.

This puts protruding lip level with outer diff rim. You can be out 1mm, which ten seat even better in dust shield.
View attachment 2682702
Than seals protruding lip, will fit snugly info FDS dust seal.
View attachment 2682710
You can save DS seal if you like. I often find I've set in a little to far, and leaver off inner diff tube and off metal plate on back of seal .View attachment 2682698
View attachment 2682700

Most important take you time and get seated squarely. One side in more than the other, is when they leak.

I didn’t want to risk it and went ahead and changed to my backup seal. The seal puller I used tore the first one but no big deal. This is where I’m at now. Right at about 1mm protruding beyond the diff tube. First pic is shot from directly underneath looking up, you can just barely see the lip of the seal. Think this is good?

 

[OwnerCS]

I didn’t want to risk it and went ahead and changed to my backup seal. The seal puller I used tore the first one but no big deal. This is where I’m at now. Right at about 1mm protruding beyond the diff tube. First pic is shot from directly underneath looking up, you can just barely see the lip of the seal. Think this is good?

View attachment 2682759

View attachment 2682761

View attachment 2682760

It took two tries to get mine right. On the 2nd try, I got the 1mm rim position option. I figured it would be better with water crossings. That looks like mine as I remember it.

I put an old towel down on the LCA so when rested I put the outer CV on it during installation, it reduced the risk of puncturing the boot.

 

[TheForger]

Forgot to update the progress of the No.2 frame bushing, but I got my hands on a sawzall and got it out in about 3min haha. Mangled both of them pretty badly but pressing in the new one went much better. Got the new LBJ pressed in and hit the top with a clear enamel

Rehabbed the SPC UBJ by removing the boot and cleaning it inside & out, pumping grease through the exposed joint until I saw fresh, and replaced the boot. These have about 43k miles on them but are still very tight with no play so I'm happy to continue running them and don't see a need to replace just yet.

I got the LCA reinstalled (hand tight) and connected the sway bar link & lower shock mount. Next is torsion bar. I am going to have the rotor resurfaced with new pads as well. After I get that done I'll begin reinstalling the knuckle and hub. I decided to go ahead and buy a brand new hub flange to pair with the new axle even though the previous one only had about 1k on it. Trying to minimize premature wear as best I can and that'll let me have a trail spare. So I'm waiting for that to arrive plus 4 window trim pieces and the dust cover seal so I can wrap this project up!

 

[flintknapper]

Good job. Warms my heart to see a man who will not give up or be denied.

 

[2001LC]

Forgot to update the progress of the No.2 frame bushing, but I got my hands on a sawzall and got it out in about 3min haha. Mangled both of them pretty badly but pressing in the new one went much better. Got the new LBJ pressed in and hit the top with a clear enamel

View attachment 2683081

Rehabbed the SPC UBJ by removing the boot and cleaning it inside & out, pumping grease through the exposed joint until I saw fresh, and replaced the boot. These have about 43k miles on them but are still very tight with no play so I'm happy to continue running them and don't see a need to replace just yet.

View attachment 2683080

I got the LCA reinstalled (hand tight) and connected the sway bar link & lower shock mount. Next is torsion bar. I am going to have the rotor resurfaced with new pads as well. After I get that done I'll begin reinstalling the knuckle and hub. I decided to go ahead and buy a brand new hub flange to pair with the new axle even though the previous one only had about 1k on it. Trying to minimize premature wear as best I can and that'll let me have a trail spare. So I'm waiting for that to arrive plus 4 window trim pieces and the dust cover seal so I can wrap this project up!

Check with ball joint maker. I see red grease. Most aftermarket ball joints use Black/gary moly fortified grease. SPC has list on their web page of approved greases.

 

[TheForger]

Check with ball joint maker. I see red grease. Most aftermarket ball joints use Black/gary moly fortified grease. SPC has list on their web page of approved greases.

 

[Red Beard]

What brass drift sizes are you guys using? I don't have one and there are a ton of options out there it seems. Do I want the 1/2'? What type of end should be on it? Any suggestions on what to order would be awesome. I couldn't find a definitive answer on search.

 

[2001LC]

What brass drift sizes are you guys using? I don't have one and there are a ton of options out there it seems. Do I want the 1/2'? What type of end should be on it? Any suggestions on what to order would be awesome. I couldn't find a definitive answer on search.

For hub flange cone washers or popping out FDS. NAPA has one, I think is 5/8 or 3//4 either would work fine. But bigger is better.

I've gone this one. So fast and easy!

 

[silver02accord]

I am coming up on 30k miles on these wheel bearings since repack(06lx) and want to take on the job soon. The truck had regular wheel bearing changes at Lexus from the PO. For a first timer on this project, approximately how much time should I allow if I am able to get the cone washers off w/o too much trouble? I plan on taking my time and going slow-its not my dd so it can sit for a few days or what not. I will also be doing the calipers, pads and rotors all new. Most nervous about getting the preset right.

 

[Bisho]

I am coming up on 30k miles on these wheel bearings since repack(06lx) and want to take on the job soon. The truck had regular wheel bearing changes at Lexus from the PO. For a first timer on this project, approximately how much time should I allow if I am able to get the cone washers off w/o too much trouble? I plan on taking my time and going slow-its not my dd so it can sit for a few days or what not. I will also be doing the calipers, pads and rotors all new. Most nervous about getting the preset right.

I planned half a day. Three weeks later...;(

If all you end up doing is repacking the bearings, and you have all the tools and parts, I'd say plan a day as a first timer and be proud of yourself if you're done early.

 

[2001LC]

I am coming up on 30k miles on these wheel bearings since repack(06lx) and want to take on the job soon. The truck had regular wheel bearing changes at Lexus from the PO. For a first timer on this project, approximately how much time should I allow if I am able to get the cone washers off w/o too much trouble? I plan on taking my time and going slow-its not my dd so it can sit for a few days or what not. I will also be doing the calipers, pads and rotors all new. Most nervous about getting the preset right.

It depends. Someone glued these cone washers on. Took about one hour each side to just get cone washers off.

 

[AlpineAccess]

I am coming up on 30k miles on these wheel bearings since repack(06lx) and want to take on the job soon. The truck had regular wheel bearing changes at Lexus from the PO. For a first timer on this project, approximately how much time should I allow if I am able to get the cone washers off w/o too much trouble? I plan on taking my time and going slow-its not my dd so it can sit for a few days or what not. I will also be doing the calipers, pads and rotors all new. Most nervous about getting the preset right.

Buy a bag of cheap microfiber towels and have some nitrile gloves handy. Job goes pretty quick if the bearings were tensioned properly and greased well. With replacing the bearings and races it was around a 4 hour project the first time.

Greasing the spindle bearings should only take a few minutes while you are in doing this project too.

Good luck!

 

[TheForger]

Does this look like it’s in all the way? I followed the steps in your video @2001LC by putting grease on the diff seal, inner splines of the axle that go in the diff, and the c-clip to keep it open-end-down. I lined everything up and gave it a couple good pushes and it made a definite click as the c-clip went in. Tried pulling it back out but couldn’t so I’m thinking it’s seated as far as it can go but the gap makes me think otherwise. What do those wiser than me have to say??

 

[flintknapper]

Does this look like it’s in all the way? I followed the steps in your video @2001LC by putting grease on the diff seal, inner splines of the axle that go in the diff, and the c-clip to keep it open-end-down. I lined everything up and gave it a couple good pushes and it made a definite click as the c-clip went in. Tried pulling it back out but couldn’t so I’m thinking it’s seated as far as it can go but the gap makes me think otherwise. What do those wiser than me have to say??

View attachment 2691609

You got it........!