Story: I was driving to work today on the interstate around 75mph. Symptoms? Maybe a sensation that I thought was my calipers/brakepads kind of sticking when I'd go from a stop for the last couple of months (I just ignored this honestly) but no noise or anything else to suggest I had a bearing issue. Well on my drive, all of a sudden the truck pulled really hard to the passenger side, so I pulled over onto the shoulder. I got out, looked around, didn't see anything out of sorts but knew something was very wrong, also had a noise/squeal with it. I decided to turn around and head back home, probably about 5 miles or so. I made it all the way home, taking lesser roads/highways to keep top speed down. I pulled off the front passenger wheel and first smelled it, then saw it. I beat on the rotor for about 20m with my largest persuader, it's not coming off, that outer bearing is basically welded on now. To ebay I go to find a salvage knuckle and hub, and cruiserTeq for bearing rebuild parts. My wife started sending me ads for used 200 series.....
Ever cook, melt, and weld a wheel bearing before? Pics inside.
- Thread starter Patassa
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There is an AM knuckle for about $150 if you're not opposed to aftermarket. Or you can search www.car-part.com for an OEM from a salvage vehicle.
RockAuto has Timkin wheel bearings at a good price. I think Timkin is OEM.
OK Auto Parts #2 in Richland, MS has two knuckles. One from a 2001 ($250) and one from a 2005 ($212.50).
RockAuto has Timkin wheel bearings at a good price. I think Timkin is OEM.
OK Auto Parts #2 in Richland, MS has two knuckles. One from a 2001 ($250) and one from a 2005 ($212.50).
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Stay away from aftermarket parts.. it is just a waste of money.
There are quality aftermarket parts and poorly made OEM parts. Just do your research.
The OEM frame on my 4th Gen 4Runner being one of them...
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This sucks man! You made the right decision to turnaround and reached home safely. When were these bearings serviced last time? Who did the service?
I know this design of wheel bearings is tried and tested, and is field serviceable but 30k service interval is kinda short and they are very finicky about the correct preload etc.
My own experience with an incompetent mechanic was pretty bad: A Harrowing Tale of Incompetence - How I destroyed a steering knuckle - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-harrowing-tale-of-incompetence-how-i-destroyed-a-steering-knuckle.1191667/
I know this design of wheel bearings is tried and tested, and is field serviceable but 30k service interval is kinda short and they are very finicky about the correct preload etc.
My own experience with an incompetent mechanic was pretty bad: A Harrowing Tale of Incompetence - How I destroyed a steering knuckle - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/a-harrowing-tale-of-incompetence-how-i-destroyed-a-steering-knuckle.1191667/
- Thread starter
- #6
I'm trying to piece it all back together. I had to reboot my CVs recently, so I probably repacked them then. One interesting mystery was behind all that gunk, I found this piece of mangled wire/washer/something that was sticking into the outer bearing, or could have come out of the bearing. I'm scratching my head on this whole ordeal.
- Thread starter
- #8
I'm normally pretty careful on all of my maintenance jobs but it's possible I screwed something up here. Not sure what though, I use my fish scale for pre load, I use bearing grease, pretty sure I packed them as good as usual. The brass bushing for the spindle bearing was pretty worn down which I've never seen before. It's possible I didn't grease that well at all.
hey I have that same floor jack 
It is quite possible that one of the bearing itself was faulty and broke down. Or perhaps the grease didn't penetrate the bearings completely. I really like this bearing packer to make sure I didn't accidentally leave any of the bearings dry: Amazon.com - https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-34550-Handy-Packer-Bearing/dp/B0002NYDYO
- Thread starter
- #11
Thanks, ordered!
