Wheel Bearings Service w/Pics (3 Viewers)

[flintknapper]

Actually, installing the drive flanges, locking the center diff and driving will tell you more. IF you still have the noise (front diff being driven by the wheels) then you'll need to investigate there. IF no noise....then odds are the drive shaft work is going to solve your issue.

 

[TheForger]

Actually, installing the drive flanges, locking the center diff and driving will tell you more. IF you still have the noise (front diff being driven by the wheels) then you'll need to investigate there. IF no noise....then odds are the drive shaft work is going to solve your issue.

Back in 20!

 

[TheForger]

Actually, installing the drive flanges, locking the center diff and driving will tell you more. IF you still have the noise (front diff being driven by the wheels) then you'll need to investigate there. IF no noise....then odds are the drive shaft work is going to solve your issue.

All noises are still gone after installing the hub flanges! Got it up to about 40mph, accelerated up steep inclines, turned under power, all things that would previously provoke the clunking noise. It remains just as silent as it was while driving with no hub flanges so that seems promising!

Any other troubleshooting steps I should take while I’m at this point?

 

[flintknapper]

All noises are still gone after installing the hub flanges! Got it up to about 40mph, accelerated up steep inclines, turned under power, all things that would previously provoke the clunking noise. It remains just as silent as it was while driving with no hub flanges so that seems promising!

Any other troubleshooting steps I should take while I’m at this point?

I would submit that it almost puts you in the clear. The front diff when subjected to forces generated by the engine, Tcase might still reveal a problem that turning that mass under relatively light loads would not expose. BUT....yes, I am hopeful you have found your problem and that the drive shaft/Ujoints might be the answer. Lets hope so.

I can't think of anything else you can do at this juncture, but anxiously await the results.


Edit to add: The reason I say the above is that driving with the driveshaft removed (drive flanges in place) you turn the front diff....BUT the pinion gear is being driven by the ring gear instead of the other way around. When the diff receives power from the driveshaft you'll have more force involved.

The pinion gear tries to climb the ring gear but is held in place by the diff housing, that is a different force than what you applied driving with the drive shaft out. But hopefully....you are in the clear.

 

[TheForger]

Yeah everything seems to be functioning just as it should which is nice. First time I’ve had to use the “trail fix for 2WD” and it’s kind of interesting how it drives now I like it hah!

Side note: I have confirmed that disconnecting the bottom sensor plug in the 3-plug group between the fuse box and charcoal canister will prevent you from starting your truck. The one that is unused in my photo is typically for the drivers front height sensor, the other top plug is the ABS wire leading down to the wheel speed sensor at the spindle.

 

[flintknapper]

Yeah everything seems to be functioning just as it should which is nice. First time I’ve had to use the “trail fix for 2WD” and it’s kind of interesting how it drives now I like it hah!

Side note: I have confirmed that disconnecting the bottom sensor plug in the 3-plug group between the fuse box and charcoal canister will prevent you from starting your truck. The one that is unused in my photo is typically for the drivers front height sensor, the other top plug is the ABS wire leading down to the wheel speed sensor at the spindle.

^^^^

That is a milestone, thank you for trying that and sharing. I would never have thought that.

I can't think of a reason why cranking the engine with that disconnected would harm anything....but if so, a simple way to disable your vehicle if it needed to be parked somewhere for a lengthy period.

 

[TheForger]

^^^^

That is a milestone, thank you for trying that and sharing. I would never have thought that.

I can't think of a reason why cranking the engine with that disconnected would harm anything....but if so, a simple way to disable your vehicle if it needed to be parked somewhere for a lengthy period.

I thought it was pretty crazy too, I have no idea why that would interfere with your ability to start the engine but it most certainly does for me after experimenting with it several times. To clarify it will not even let the engine crank. It seems to completely disable the starter all together. Turn the key and it’s pure silence.

 

[2001LC]

Just a quick note: #1 skids are important. Without, we get a lot of moisture and road dirty/mud/sand into engine compartment. Sure way to reduce life of alternator.

 

[TheForger]

Just a quick note: #1 skids are important. Without, we get a lot of moisture and road dirty/mud/sand into engine compartment. Sure way to reduce life of alternator.

Agreed! I pulled it off in the beginning when I removed the axle to give me more room to work. Since an issue is still present I have just kept it off so I can get a better view of things. Since it was a rotational noise I wanted to make sure there wasn't anything coming in contact with an axle or driveshaft and that's easier to do with it removed. I do plan on reinstalling it when I get the driveshaft reinstalled!

After I get all these issues resolved I plan on backing out onto the driveway and cleaning the entire undercarriage. I drop the spare tire, remove all skid plates, and roll around on a creeper scrubbing everything with simple green hah!

 

[2001LC]

Agreed! I pulled it off in the beginning when I removed the axle to give me more room to work. Since an issue is still present I have just kept it off so I can get a better view of things. Since it was a rotational noise I wanted to make sure there wasn't anything coming in contact with an axle or driveshaft and that's easier to do with it removed. I do plan on reinstalling it when I get the driveshaft reinstalled!

After I get all these issues resolved I plan on backing out onto the driveway and cleaning the entire undercarriage. I drop the spare tire, remove all skid plates, and roll around on a creeper scrubbing everything with simple green hah!

I saw a lot of fresh looking mud in engine bay pictures, and no #1 shield! So I was thinking you ran without.

But perhaps it the missing inner fender skirts. Some guys w/lifted use rubber extenders.

 

[flintknapper]

Just a quick note: #1 skids are important. Without, we get a lot of moisture and road dirty/mud/sand into engine compartment. Sure way to reduce life of alternator.

Yeah, you gotta love where Toyota chose to put the alternator on an off-road vehicle.

Skid plates/covers or not.

 

[TheForger]

I saw a lot of fresh looking mud in engine bay pictures, and no #1 shield! So I was thinking you ran without.

But perhaps it the missing inner fender skirts. Some guys w/lifted use rubber extenders.

Yes I removed the skirt that runs above the UCA so that it would be easier to fish the ABS harness out of the engine bay when I removed the spindle. It also frees up a couple holes that I use to bungee cord my caliper up out of the way. I have since reinstalled that skirt and replaced a couple of the clips that attach it. All of the mud you see is from an outing I went on with my local group back in early May that still hasn't been cleaned off!

 

[OwnerCS]

I'm still experimenting with using Murphy's Oil Soap with a pressure washer foam gun. It leaves behind a slightly oily residue that I like. I'm due to use it again soon.

Over the years, I've drifted away from caustic detergents. I was surprised how Murphys foams up and sticks when being dispensed with the foam gun.

I need to try it a few more times before I settle on it. Has anyone else used Murphy's for cleaning an undercarriage?

I used a pressure washer pistol that you can see in the picture to wash off the Murphy's foam. Makes it easier to spot problems when you can see hose condition and parts.

 

[Eyedaho]

I'm still experimenting with using Murphy's Oil Soap with a pressure washer foam gun. It leaves behind a slightly oily residue that I like. I'm due to use it again soon.

Over the years, I've drifted away from caustic detergents. I was surprised how Murphys foams up and sticks when being dispensed with the foam gun.

I need to try it a few more times before I settle on it. Has anyone else used Murphy's for cleaning an undercarriage?

View attachment 2700827

I used a pressure washer pistol that you can see in the picture to wash off the Murphy's foam. Makes it easier to spot problems when you can see hose condition and parts.

View attachment 2700829

Darn it, now I have that Murphy's oil soap song stuck in my head!

It does look like that stuff works pretty well for you though! What is the foam gun that you use with your pressure washer?

 

[OwnerCS]

Darn it, now I have that Murphy's oil soap song stuck in my head!

It does look like that stuff works pretty well for you though! What is the foam gun that you use with your pressure washer?

Chemical guys foam gun. My kid bought it and couldn't use it because he doesn't have a pressure washer at his new place. He has some chemical guys solution that he took. Since I found I didn't have any liquid soap on the day I went to use it other than Murphy's, I tried it. I didn't deliberately set out to use Murphy's. It was an accidental discovery.

Car Wash Foam Guns & Cannons | Chemical Guys

Why wash when you can foam? Foaming cannons and guns take your car washing to the next level, as the denser suds attach to dirt & grime and gently whisk them off your car's surfaces.

www.chemicalguys.com

 

[TheForger]

View attachment 2700317

Driveline shop just called and told me these are the wrong u-joints for the front drive shaft...WTF?? I cross referenced the part number across this forum as well as a few parts websites and thought I had it correct. He said he removed the old ones and there's an obvious size difference between those and the new ones. Did Toyota package the wrong sized u-joints in this box or am I an idiot??

 

[TheForger]

Taken from @cruiseroutfit website:

OEM Toyota Front U-Joint

Matsuba Rear U-Joint:

The u-joint I received:

From what I can tell the center of the joint where the grease fitting sits looks much more similar to the rear Matsuba u-joint. I think I ordered the correct part number but received the incorrect part

 

[TheForger]

Okay so huge thanks to @cruiseroutfit for overnighting me the proper u-joints! The shop got them installed and also cleaned the splines in the yoke and balanced it for me.

Unfortunately after putting everything back together the noise is still present. I attached one of the leads of the ChassisEar to the front diff housing and it definitely seems like that’s where the noise is originating from. I kind of thought the same the last time I used it, but I was hoping a bad u-joint would be the cause and it was resonating through the diff housing. Plus a u-joint is much easier and cheaper. Huge disappointment as I thought this would’ve solved it, especially with all the time and money I’ve put into it recently. Will have it towed to a shop somewhere as I have lost interest in working on it. If the conclusion is a bad front diff then it will most likely be getting a locker. Ugh…

 

[medtro]

Finally got everything buttoned up. 62ft-lbs on the wheel bearing adjusting nut got me to 12lbs of preload. After torquing the lock nut to 47ft-lbs I’m getting readings right around 13.5-14lbs so I’m very happy with that. Used the “D” snap ring (2.6mm) leaving me with a 0.08mm gap. The handy CV Axle Puller Tool made it a breeze

Trying to figure out what size snap ring can be used in new axle. Did you use “D” snap ring or 2.6mm? I saw your snap rings table in your puller thread, D is 2.4 mm and C is 2.6 mm.

 

[TheForger]

Trying to figure out what size snap ring can be used in new axle. Did you use “D” snap ring or 2.6mm? I saw your snap rings table in your puller thread, D is 2.4 mm and C is 2.6 mm.

You are correct, I used the “D” size which is 2.4mm. However, after driving a few miles while trying to diagnose this latest issue and letting the grease in the bearings settle, I believe I could fit “C” 2.6mm snap ring. I do plan on changing to “C” after fixing my latest issue.