What the hell is goin on in Jimmy's Barn (4 Viewers)

[CenTXFJ60]

Well Mcguire is still in the red. 30 yrs of meals, diapers, room and board, college, etc.

Yes sir. He wanted a few coins at first but then he thought about everything I’ve done for him and he rattled off several things. From there it was a silent acknowledgment that I’d just take this box home without exchanging any denero. I’m slowly getting tools transferred. It’s turning into a reorganization of the barn. The footprint is so large vs the available space this is necessary. That back left corner is what I worked on tonight. Found a lot of things I forgot i had. This is where it sits as of now. Still several drawers plus the cabinet to fill.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Looks awesome Jimmy! Liam is in San Antonio as of yesterday. We dropped him off. If you are having a soiree or need a hand, yank his collar.

 

[Paullus]

You’re looking at the 5th gear hub, not the gear itself. The gear has “all its teeth”. The hub is missing two teeth to align properly with the 5th gear synchro ring.

This picture also clearly shows why we always replace the gaskets on the rear extension housing. They are always oil soaked and will cause a small leak if not replaced ( make sure you clean the surface properly before installing the new gasket ).

More Tcase rebuild tips/info here:

Georg @ Valley Hybrids

Dang, I just installed the t-case rear oil seal and I put it in backwards! The FSM just depicts the seal as having a flat surface on both sides. I thought the more delicate part went inward so you wouldn't damage them when tapping it in. I don't there is anyway to extract it without damaging it.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Looks awesome Jimmy! Liam is in San Antonio as of yesterday. We dropped him off. If you are having a soiree or need a hand, yank his collar.

Definitely have Liam call. Ben @BigHighBlue will be staying the weekend and would be awesome to have Liam come hang out

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Dang, I just installed the t-case rear oil seal and I put it in backwards! The FSM just depicts the seal as having a flat surface on both sides. I thought the more delicate part went inward so you wouldn't damage them when tapping it in. I don't there is anyway to extract it without damaging it.

Sorry to hear about this. And don’t feel bad…if you read enough of my antics you’ll see I’ve done way worse things. If you remove the cone you can possibly use a brass punch or the right size socket and press the seal out from the inside. A socket that barely fits inside the ID of that bore would be perfect. Going off memory as I’m not looking at one at this moment. You’ll need to remove the bearing retainer. And don’t lose any shims that are in there.

 

[Paullus]

Sorry to hear about this. And don’t feel bad…if you read enough of my antics you’ll see I’ve done way worse things. If you remove the cone you can possibly use a brass punch or the right size socket and press the seal out from the inside. A socket that barely fits inside the ID of that bore would be perfect. Going off memory as I’m not looking at one at this moment. You’ll need to remove the bearing retainer. And don’t lose any shims that are in there.

I decided to order another seal and stake nut just to be safe. BTW, is it a good idea to use permatex gear oil grade gasket maker on both sides of the stake nut washer?

 

[CenTXFJ60]

I decided to order another seal and stake nut just to be safe. BTW, is it a good idea to use permatex gear oil grade gasket maker on both sides of the stake nut washer?

 

[CenTXFJ60]

What I do is smear a small bit of Permatex on the female splines just inside of the back of the flange. That way when you slide it back on the output shaft it will fill any voids. Just enough so that you see a little bit come out from the front side once the flange is seated all the way on the shaft. You can wipe it off but I just leave it and spin the stake nut on and then torque it. If there’s a lot of excess you can wipe off prior to putting on the stake nut.

 

[JohnnyFish]

What I do is smear a small bit of Permatex on the female splines just inside of the back of the flange. That way when you slide it back on the output shaft it will fill any voids. Just enough so that you see a little bit come out from the front side once the flange is seated all the way on the shaft. You can wipe it off but I just leave it and spin the stake nut on and then torque it. If there’s a lot of excess you can wipe off prior to putting on the stake nut.

If you're ever feeling lonely, read this to yourself in Scarlett Johansson's voice.

 

[cruisermatt]

that's a nice toolbox - Reminds me I need to give Mcguire a ring some time

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Last hours invested in this AC install. The longest part was clearancing the inside of the grill for the dryer. Next up is a brake inspection and update on any parts needing replaced. And I can see why the parking brake does not work. Will get this sorted as well.

 

[CenTXFJ60]

Found the button for the parking brake. Recommending a new handle/button/spring kit from rust farmers. For $44 it’s a no-brainer and will look great too. Front brakes are great. Rear brakes worn way beyond spec. And they were way over adjusted so had to back them off to get the drums off. Love the rear FF axle. Also removed the hood insulator which was a custom job done by a PO in Europe. This was another no-brainer when the current owner asked me to delete it. Should have taken a pic prior to removal. Peeled it off and it left 1.5 layers of material glued to the underside. Used a brass wire wheeled and got a bit messy. Hood is so much lighter now.