Builds What the Foo is this??? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 2fpower
- Start date
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Not for everyone but this is what I did with my DIY beadlocks. The method has proven to work well with zero leakdown, even when parked over the winter (7 months or so).
(Note: I didn't have to try to get the welds to hold air)
forum.ih8mud.com
(Note: I didn't have to try to get the welds to hold air)
38" Swampers + ProComp Wheels + DIY Beadlocks
Start with a bucket. Add a piece of carefully cut plywood. now a spare hub assembly will drop down in the hole you cut... (bolt it to the plywood for stability) Sit the wheel onto the hub. (a couple of lug nuts will hold it securely in place)
forum.ih8mud.com
2fpower
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #786
Thanks @woytovich wish I found that thread before I started.
Mig welding will have pin holes, and I purposely did not fill the gap. Tig is just a beautiful way to finish the work and fill the gap, and it should just be a quick run with a flap disc to have them ready to go.
Mig welding will have pin holes, and I purposely did not fill the gap. Tig is just a beautiful way to finish the work and fill the gap, and it should just be a quick run with a flap disc to have them ready to go.
Here is a decent article on various types of beadlocks as well. I was unfamiliar, so I thought I could add for others that may want to know.
www.fourwheeler.com
As far as the welding goes:
The perfect world would be having a rotating weld positioner so you could attached a hub (or end of an old axle shaft) with studs to bolt the wheel to, so you can make the edge of the rim speed (inches per minute) match your welding requirements so the part rotates while you weld and your hand stays put so you get smooth, consistent welds. I still recommend doing at least four separate passes on your perimeter welds, as the heat build-up can warp the wheel. If you did (8) separate passes, setup opposite each other, marked for start/stop points, then you could do a pass, move 180° to that, do the next one, and so on until all complete.
www.arc-zone.com
Preparation and setup are ultimately important. Make sure your gaps are even, materials are clean and all plasma edges have been sanded to remove all oxides from the cut edge. (laser or water-jet edges can be welded directly on because there are no oxides like generated by plasma cutting) Yes, there is math involved for metal deposit rates, welder settings, all based on what materials are being welded, and what wires (assuming MIG (GMAW) welding) You can also do the same using a stick welder (SMAW), and you can do that outdoors, but you have slag to deal with and must keep it clean.
From a heat management standpoint, try to "backweld" into your previous ending point to push the heat stress back to it's origination.
Weld one: ------> <--------- :Weld 2
Make sure to overlap at least 2x the width of the weld (1/4" weld = 1/2" overlap) to help with the start / stop pinholes that can happen.
Do the first four welds one direction, and the last four welds the opposite direction. This will help offset the weld stress UNLESS you are intending to anneal the the entire wheel when complete to stress-relieve it. That may cause other issues though.
What To Look For When Buying Beadlock Wheels - Four Wheeler
Installing your first set of beadlocks can be a total game changer off-road if you have figured out how to properly manipulate your tire pressure. If you are a
As far as the welding goes:
The perfect world would be having a rotating weld positioner so you could attached a hub (or end of an old axle shaft) with studs to bolt the wheel to, so you can make the edge of the rim speed (inches per minute) match your welding requirements so the part rotates while you weld and your hand stays put so you get smooth, consistent welds. I still recommend doing at least four separate passes on your perimeter welds, as the heat build-up can warp the wheel. If you did (8) separate passes, setup opposite each other, marked for start/stop points, then you could do a pass, move 180° to that, do the next one, and so on until all complete.
Automation - Positioners - Arc-Zone.com, Inc
www.arc-zone.com
Preparation and setup are ultimately important. Make sure your gaps are even, materials are clean and all plasma edges have been sanded to remove all oxides from the cut edge. (laser or water-jet edges can be welded directly on because there are no oxides like generated by plasma cutting) Yes, there is math involved for metal deposit rates, welder settings, all based on what materials are being welded, and what wires (assuming MIG (GMAW) welding) You can also do the same using a stick welder (SMAW), and you can do that outdoors, but you have slag to deal with and must keep it clean.
From a heat management standpoint, try to "backweld" into your previous ending point to push the heat stress back to it's origination.
Weld one: ------> <--------- :Weld 2
Make sure to overlap at least 2x the width of the weld (1/4" weld = 1/2" overlap) to help with the start / stop pinholes that can happen.
Do the first four welds one direction, and the last four welds the opposite direction. This will help offset the weld stress UNLESS you are intending to anneal the the entire wheel when complete to stress-relieve it. That may cause other issues though.
Yeah I'm a huge fan
Your house/yard look way nicer than mine
2fpower
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #795
I’m borrowing the trailer, and didn’t have the key to be able to open it take out all the stuff to get to the bolts and then unbolt it...
The tires on this trailer aren’t the best, blew one of them on the way down to the off-road park, so glad I did not have the extra weight of the camping trailer
The tires on this trailer aren’t the best, blew one of them on the way down to the off-road park, so glad I did not have the extra weight of the camping trailer
What's the reasoning behind not simply driving the rig to the park if you're taking the trailer? Seems like you won't be wheeling hard enough with the trailer for it to be an issue.
Edit - if it was a multi day wheeking event it makes a bit more sense. Still kinda unsure why you don't just drive your rig.
Edit - if it was a multi day wheeking event it makes a bit more sense. Still kinda unsure why you don't just drive your rig.
Yea, I actually went back a few pages and saw some discussion of top speed not being very high due to gearing. This isn't a build I've followed but was kinda confused why it was being trailered. One of my favorite things about mine is that it'll get me anywhere I want, drive over anything I want (or perhaps more reasonably have the money to afford), and get me home after all that.
Different strokes I suppose. Will def poke through the build when I have a few min. Just going a few pages back looks like some epic stuff has been done.
Different strokes I suppose. Will def poke through the build when I have a few min. Just going a few pages back looks like some epic stuff has been done.
This can do all that too, but if he can trailer it, why not? I don't trailer my rig because I don't have a tow rig or trailer or space to store them. But I would love to be able to
I guess I don't understand the question. If it can handle highway speeds I could just as easily turn your question around and ask why trailer it vs simply driving it?
I haven't seen many 80s that need trailered and was just curious what about OPs landed it in that category. I'm not trying to s*** on his rig (and I've only read pages 30-current) but I haven't seen anything besides the gearing that would have me tote it around like that. He's referenced off-road parks a number of times and having grown up on the East coast with the only real wheeling being such places I suppose it kinda makes sense. Although, personally, I'd just as soon not deal with a trailer anytime I can avoid it.
Shrug. Different mentalities is prob the answer.
