What is this? Dimond in the very ruff?

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for a SOA, you price 35" tires yet?
 
for a SOA, you price 35" tires yet?

Or 37s?

For my money I would do a Saginaw (or Scout) PS mod instead of either you mentioned but I understand your resources may be limited.

Heifer-net
 
SOA seems to be good off-road. I've driven a friend's J**p scrambler with an SOA around town and I can honestly say, I do NOT like its manners on a paved road - particularly under heaving breaking - the truck tends to "nose dive" and the steering gets squirrely. Could be a poorly done conversion, or it could just be the nature of the beast, but the driving characteristics are very different than that standard SUA, and they're definitely not for me. Too "unpredictable" at road-speeds.

In terms of power steering, I'll echo HH's comment. I'm not sure how prolific GM saginaw boxes are "down under," but up here they are about 10X more common than 60-series boxes. They're also incredibly powerful. I run a Saginaw box to 31 inch tires, and the steering is pinky light. Almost too light, to be honest.

I did some research before I rebuilt my existing conversion - the feedback I got from folks is that 60 series boxes are rare, more expensive, and prone to leak. That may not be the case in Australia, but around here, the 60 box was about 2X more expensive than the Saginaw.

Just my two cents - I'm sure someone with 60-series steering will chime in and tell me I have it all wrong!

Whatever you do, if you go SOA, and big tires, do not go mini-truck steering - that little box doesn't have the guts to move anything bigger than 33's effectively.
 
I opted for the 60 series PS. I did not like how the Saginaw conversion puts the box out front.

When Rick says his PS is "almost too light" I would be curious if his caster is off. A lift can change your caster angle and make for some light, darty steering.

I have a very detailed write up (including 70 series p/n's for a factory drag link) in my signature link - enjoy!
 
for a SOA, you price 35" tires yet?

Good point so far I can't find them so I would need to ship from OZ
The biggest that are readily available are 285/16/10s and there not cheap but nothing is here

Chad Wells
 
monke south said:
Good point so far I can't find them so I would need to ship from OZ
The biggest that are readily available are 285/16/10s and there not cheap but nothing is here?de03

Chad Wells

You will have trouble finding tyres that big in Australia as they are illegal in most states. Likewise spring overs.

You'll find it FAR cheaper to buy your tyres in the US and ship them than to do so from Australia. It was much cheaper for me to buy my 33x10.5x15 BFGs in the US and mail them to myself in Australia than to buy the same tyres in Australia.
 
You will have trouble finding tyres that big in Australia as they are illegal in most states. Likewise spring overs.

You'll find it FAR cheaper to buy your tyres in the US and ship them than to do so from Australia. It was much cheaper for me to buy my 33x10.5x15 BFGs in the US and mail them to myself in Australia than to buy the same tyres in Australia.

That is some very good info thanks chamba.
If we send another container over I will defiantly do that. I guess 285s will half to do for now.

Chad Wells
 
x2, how about a nice OD green?

The OD green is our first choice. How ever.... A white guy in a military looking vehicle in the highlands of PNG is not a good idea. We would be fine in our own tribe and province but out side of where we are known could be bad!

Chad Wells
 
Well it looks like the soa is all but dead

The power steering mod looks like its a possibility I found an old 60 with a 2h that still has all the PS system in tacked. The owner told me I could have the pump. Know I just need to do a little research to find out what all I need from the 60 and other parts to see if its feasible.

Chad Wells
 
Hi Chad,

Love the project. Seems like you're making good progress, too. If you are after 35s or their metric 16 equivalent, they're readily available anywhere on the eastern seaboard in Aus.
Cheers,
A
 
Hi Chad,

Love the project. Seems like you're making good progress, too. If you are after 35s or their metric 16 equivalent, they're readily available anywhere on the eastern seaboard in Aus.
Cheers,
A

Do you know off the top of your what a set of mts cost.

Chad Wells
 
I opted for the 60 series PS. I did not like how the Saginaw conversion puts the box out front.

When Rick says his PS is "almost too light" I would be curious if his caster is off. A lift can change your caster angle and make for some light, darty steering.

I have a very detailed write up (including 70 series p/n's for a factory drag link) in my signature link - enjoy!

That was a technical read. Very informative great work. We have lots of 70 cruisers here, in fact half of all the cars here are 70s so with the 60 parts I can get and an unlimited supply of 70s and a few 40s I think i can get it done. I just need to look at the parts to put it all together in my head. Then I will re read the thread. Thanks again for posting all that work and research.

Is there any out there that have done this 60 PS conversion on a righthand drive HJ47?

Chad Wells
 
We had a great breakthrough today on our build. We acquired an 1981 hj47 from the southern highlands government for......$150.00 Some kids stole it got drunk and rolled it.
The body is very very bad but the frame is good and it has a lot of bits here and there that we haven't collected yet.
CA1DEF35-53DC-4513-A100-8758B2FF9C1A-3029-000000DD009249F5.jpg

Here is a sticker on the dash reminding the driver of all the things that need to be checked before driving.
203FD5D5-23D4-42B3-95D7-5BC737E7BFB8-3029-000000DDAAEB100F.jpg

Water in the rad
Engine oil
Clutch and brake fluid
Battery water
Tire presser
All the lights
All the gauges
I guess it should have said don't drink and drive!
Score for us!

Chad Wells
 
We had a excellent day of tearing down the donor rig. Not as exciting as putting things together but a good day none the less.

First Trevor and Ray worked on getting all the wiring free, starting with the windshield wiper motor. Then we freed up all the wiring and pulled out the complete wiring harness.
BF0C2D98-AC6D-4628-8466-AA045C7C0624-5440-00000190347253CD.jpg



Trevor had to pull the heater assembly out first.
ECF71282-F97B-4DA3-98AB-85D68652B58D-5440-000001906239D535.jpg



Derrick and Pison removed the front seats and the back jump seats. They also removed the body mounting bolts. At least the ones that didn't need to be ground off with the grinder.
396BC5DC-0DB8-4CD4-A18F-805BB72666B1-5440-000001904756292B.jpg



Connor and I took off the back doors. We will need them later when it's time to build a tailgate.
21496BFF-4057-4850-BE1C-AEB2A13B3799-5440-000001907A9431A4.jpg



Desmond was the perfect size to get to those hard to reach areas
38C46EC6-0FF9-4A8C-AA12-CE649F915A53-5440-000001909BD93B2C.jpg


By the end of the day we had all the bits and pieces off and the body removed and set aside.
652D8E5E-5A7E-45BD-8420-405F9EDA53C2-5440-00000190A9314BDA.jpg


Now we will start cleaning up this frame.

Chad Wells
 
Trevor and I dropped off the hood, both front fenders and the top and back of the cab at the work shop to night. We will see how good of a job they can do. I haven't seen very good body work here they all seem to just fill the dents with bondo and call it good. I told them no bondo, so we will see what happens. I know it will be better then I could do.

Chad Wells
 

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