The new mutt...1973ish (1 Viewer)

[ARCTICMUTT]

I picked up a "1973" today for a decent price. It's rough but I've seen a lot worse. It has a sbc, center force clutch, shatterproof bell housing, 4 sp and is basically complete. This brings me to my next issue. The title says its a 73 however that Vin does not match the door jamb plate that says its a 2/75. The firewall is dune beige however everything else has been primer grayed. It gets better though. The top and doors which haven't been on it in 25+ years are Pollux orange and supposedly were the originals. I got my handle "arcticmutt" building my last rig that had a variety of manufacturers into it and it looks like ill be continuing the legacy. Lol. I'm pretty sure someone stripped a Pollux orange 1973 for the top, doors and title but all of the rest is a 75. I also forgot to mention the previous owner installed a dodge van radiator, 70's Chevy truck taillights and the fact of the 73/75 cruisers makes it right up my alley. The problems that will need to be addressed first is rear wheel cylinders are leaking, no taillights that work, it doesn't look like a tune ups been done in 15+ years ( runs surprisingly well ), lose the 2 barrel q-jet and drive the snot out of it as I rebuild it over the next few years. I'll try and post pics this weekend.

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

The sides of the top are pretty much unusable. The top has not been on the 40 in 25+ years and was left sitting behind a barn on the ground. Also the 40 itself was kept outside uncovered so needless to say its going to be a long process. On a good note the bezel was the right direction when I picked it up. The suspension is pretty much original minus the angle iron shackles in the rear.

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

Scanning through my boxes of parts last night I'm pretty sure Iconfirmed my suspicions. I found rocker panels that match all of the rest of the orange along with an extra cluster assy. Everytime I look at it I keep seeing less and less of the bad things about it and start seeing the potential it has. This is my first 40 and hopefully I will do right by it.

 

[cruiserjunkie]

How about a picture

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

This is the only one I have right now...all loaded up heading home yesterday.

 

[subzali]

Low windshield wipers and square turn signals say 1975

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD at 85mph in an FJ40

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

Need help identifying the sbc in it...the block number is 3892657 and everything I've found says it could be a 302, 327 or 350 from a 64-67 any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[AKcruiserfreak]

Hey! I recognize that trailer! Nice forty man! are you in Florida permanently?

TK

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

Lol. That trailers hauled 3 vehicles out of your yard. We've been here a year now and I hate it. The wife likes the beaches though. We needed to leave to be near some better hospitals for my wife(complications with pregnancy) and I had a buddy in the area. I'd like to make it back up to ak but its not in the cards right now.

 

[B y r o n]

According to the block number it is from 1967. What does the frame vin number match? Check the right side frame behind the front bumper.

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

Need help identifying the sbc in it...the block number is 3892657 and everything I've found says it could be a 302, 327 or 350 from a 64-67 any help would be greatly appreciated.

Anyone? I also found the head symbols and that didn't get me anywhere because apparently they're from a 58 and up 283 with 9.25-1 compression and 1.72/1.50 valves w/ 59cc chamber.

 

[billwardak]

Scanning through my boxes of parts last night I'm pretty sure Iconfirmed my suspicions. I found rocker panels that match all of the rest of the orange along with an extra cluster assy. Everytime I look at it I keep seeing less and less of the bad things about it and start seeing the potential it has. This is my first 40 and hopefully I will do right by it.

sniff sniff making me proud!!!!

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

sniff sniff making me proud!!!!

Lol. I wouldn't even have considered or even given land cruisers a second thought if it hadn't been for you. Thanks Bill. Wish we could wrench on it together.

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

So the quadrajet needs to be rebuilt or replaced sooner rather than later since I cant get it to start now without pouring fuel into the carb. I have a holley single pump 650 sitting in the garage from the sbc that I had in my last project. I'm going for tourque not hp. This carb also needs to be rebuilt but I feel it should give me everything I want for now and I already have it. So, my question is what does the masses think? Rebuild the 2bl qjet or rebuild the holley 650 4bl? When it comes to carbs I try to stay as far away as I can so any help is greatly appreciated

 

[cruiserjunkie]

I've never had any luck running a Holley on any kind of a angle

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

So the quadrajet needs to be rebuilt or replaced sooner rather than later since I cant get it to start now without pouring fuel into the carb. I have a holley single pump 650 sitting in the garage from the sbc that I had in my last project. I'm going for tourque not hp. This carb also needs to be rebuilt but I feel it should give me everything I want for now and I already have it. So, my question is what does the masses think? Rebuild the 2bl qjet or rebuild the holley 650 4bl? When it comes to carbs I try to stay as far away as I can so any help is greatly appreciated

My understanding is that Holley's aren't good at angles. My truck has a 283 SBC running a Quadrajet. Everything I have read says that they are the go-to carb for off road use because they run at virtually any angle. I just rebuilt my first quadrajet last weekend, and it was pretty straightforward. A couple things about Q-jets to know when rebuilding:

1. They have 5 welch plugs in the bottom of the float bowl that tend to leak. I covered the rear plugs with epoxy, and drilled/tapped the original primary plugs for threaded plugs, then epoxied those in.

2. Over many years of use, the primary throttle shaft tends to wear a slightly wider hole in the throttle body casting, which can lead to vacuum leaks and weird idle issues. They can (and should) be drilled out and brass-bushed. I didn't do this, and I think I may be running into this issue now.

3. The needle on the back if the float does NOT mount to the two holes on the float, it dangles off the rounded edge of the back of the float. I did this wrong too, and may be paying for it now!

4. If the screws have been overtightened, the air horn can warp. Slight warpage is no big deal - thy make extra thick gaskets to compensate. A lot of warpage, or a cracked bridge between the secondary air flappers, means its trash.

Cliff Ruggles of Cliff's high performance is an awesome guy/resource and was very helpful.

A basic rebuild is NOT difficult and should be nothing to be afraid of. I'm a marketing guy with little to no wrenching experience and I managed to get through it in a weekend

I also took a TON of pictures. There's a lot on the "Clustertruck rides again" thread. I have more if you'd like them.

I'm still working out some bugs, may have a vacuum leak or ignition issues, but the actual rebuild was not too tough.

 

[pb4ugo]

Need help identifying the sbc in it...the block number is 3892657 and everything I've found says it could be a 302, 327 or 350 from a 64-67 any help would be greatly appreciated.

You should find the engine ID pad on the front of the blk below the passenger side cyldr head. The pad is an extension of the cyldr head deck surface on the blk. You can google "sbc engine
ID" to find out what these numbers & letters mean. The #'s are stamped into the pad.

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

You should find the engine ID pad on the front of the blk below the passenger side cyldr head. The pad is an extension of the cyldr head deck surface on the blk. You can google "sbc engine
ID" to find out what these numbers & letters mean. The #'s are stamped into the pad.

Thanks. I'll look on Monday.

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

You should find the engine ID pad on the front of the blk below the passenger side cyldr head. The pad is an extension of the cyldr head deck surface on the blk. You can google "sbc engine
ID" to find out what these numbers & letters mean. The #'s are stamped into the pad.

Alright...I found the pad location and got the numbers off of them but have hit a wall. I'm pretty sure it's my own ignorance but I have searched for 45min trying to decode it.

It's a long pad with 2 sets of numbers the first 8 are 7n197061 and the last 7 v03i5ms. I double checked them and I'm fairly certain the num,bers are correct(hard to see)

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

The first 7 might be a t??