Installed a center console
And trying to figure out where to mount this
And trying to figure out where to mount this
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (48 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
I puchased a 1970 fj40 this week and should get it delivered next week early.
All excited now before reality sets in next week.
All excited now before reality sets in next week.
oestlarsen
SILVER Star
After getting the 40 on the
road again, my clutch won't hold without pumping. There is only one component left to redo, the master! With the rebuild kit, I expect it to work another 44 years.
road again, my clutch won't hold without pumping. There is only one component left to redo, the master! With the rebuild kit, I expect it to work another 44 years.
Got it inspected, installed tuffy console and took her out for maiden voyage. First time in 4 years
Water pump started leaking - found an old rusty bolt-stub behind the alternator mount.
Drained coolant AGAIN, removed NEW radiator' radiator mount, hoses and belts, as well as the fold down front of my 40 - bumper wouldn't allow it to fold down enough.
Removed the water pump, using heat, penetrating oil and a flat pry bar to get it off e rusty stub.
Welded two nuts (cinched together) onto the stub SIX TIMES and finally removed it with liberal heat, penetrating oil, a couple of hammers and a 12vdc impact wrench - it works great for this and is very unlikely to torque it enough to break it off.
installed new pump (saving the old pump for trail emergencies), new bolts and put everything back together. Leak's gone!
Moral: ALWAYS inspect everything when you go to the trouble of installing a new radiator!
I'm learning the hard way 
Also, replaced leaking oil pan - was very fortunate to be able to work the clutch inspection cover off and back on, as well as the old and new oil pans, without removing the headers.
Then i removed the skid plate and measured the T-Case to Tranny length in preparation for ordering a Bypass Hose - Note: removing the drain plugs with the front end on stands only resulted in minimal overflow from the T-Case and Tranny. So, I suspect what I thought was an input shaft seal leak was actually the oil pan also leaking around the rear saddle. But, I'm gonna play it safe and install a bypass hose to handle any potential leak until I drop the tranny later.
Finally, I cleaned up the greasy mess I made and called it a week
Drained coolant AGAIN, removed NEW radiator' radiator mount, hoses and belts, as well as the fold down front of my 40 - bumper wouldn't allow it to fold down enough.
Removed the water pump, using heat, penetrating oil and a flat pry bar to get it off e rusty stub.
Welded two nuts (cinched together) onto the stub SIX TIMES and finally removed it with liberal heat, penetrating oil, a couple of hammers and a 12vdc impact wrench - it works great for this and is very unlikely to torque it enough to break it off.
installed new pump (saving the old pump for trail emergencies), new bolts and put everything back together. Leak's gone!
Moral: ALWAYS inspect everything when you go to the trouble of installing a new radiator!
I'm learning the hard way Also, replaced leaking oil pan - was very fortunate to be able to work the clutch inspection cover off and back on, as well as the old and new oil pans, without removing the headers.
Then i removed the skid plate and measured the T-Case to Tranny length in preparation for ordering a Bypass Hose - Note: removing the drain plugs with the front end on stands only resulted in minimal overflow from the T-Case and Tranny. So, I suspect what I thought was an input shaft seal leak was actually the oil pan also leaking around the rear saddle. But, I'm gonna play it safe and install a bypass hose to handle any potential leak until I drop the tranny later.
Finally, I cleaned up the greasy mess I made and called it a week
Finally got some painting done and re assembly of the front end. Before and after pic
Looks like a little more work than just paint and assembly went into your rig!
I puchased a 1970 fj40 this week and should get it delivered next week early.
All excited now before reality sets in next week.
welcome
offrd63
Ain't you done yet!
Well hello all. Ive been pretty much just lurking here for about 12 years. Before this it was the land cruiser mail list. I did a complete frame off in 1992. Since that first frame off I've suffered from the old bigger is better problem that so many of us are cursed with. About seven years ago i lost my garage and I've just been doing basic maintenance, just enough to get by. I have just finished building my new shop and it's time for cruiser projects. This week I stopped by Alcan springs on my way home from moab, and picked up my new set of fj40's reversed for the front, and fj55,s for the rear. The new springs look great. no more flat springs. Now don't get me wrong, they work great off road when they are flat, but they have just become to flexy. I want better road manners. Between the new springs and some new shocks I should have much better highway manners. That's my plan for the week. Now back to lurk mode. 
aw
aw
Beast has new tires. 33x12.5 R15
Mud
Proud owner of Beast. 77 BJ40
Mud
Proud owner of Beast. 77 BJ40
Finally painted the last major item.
I love a white top on an FJ-40. A hard top is too heavy for my preferred wheeling, but if I had a street queen, factory paint scheme for sure.
offrd63
Ain't you done yet!
Great look'in top, did you have to refinish the jell coat? Mine has spider web cracks that showed through when I repainted mine.
I consulted a friend that has fooled with vettes since the 60's . He said that since I was going to paint mine the easiest and most effective repair would be to sand them to give them enough depth and tooth to use short-strand fiberglass finished with several coats of urethane primer. It doesn't show well in the pic but I finish coated with 3 wet coats of single stage urethane and tried to get a consistent orange peel ( something I usually try to avoid). The gloss will deminish some and hopefully leave a durable forgiving finish.
@vtgbeemer - what color white did you go with?
Also - is that a completely fiberglass top? Can't even see the split between the drip rail and the roof!
It is Cygnus white. It has the metal rain gutter, still factory riveted to the fiberglass. I cleaned away all the seam sealer from the rain gutter and resealed it with Napa #4313 seam sealer. I like it better than 3M.
