What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (78 Viewers)

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biscuitlips, any pics of the snorkel plumbing inside the engine compartment? And any detail pics of your setup, especially attaching points.

here are a couple more. All in all this only cost me about $25 in material to make that was purchased at my local home center, lowes and it actually functions.
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Rebuilt my 4 front wheel cylinders because 2 of them were seized up. Stops fast and stops straight.

Thanks to Coolerman for the write up.:cheers:
 
this week i added more gas :)

me too--------and enjoyed driving the heck out of it -with these 70 deg temp's.....:D:D.........:cool::cool:

and hand washed it today with auto shampoo and a soft towel, and put armor all on the tires......... 78 deg today-----WELCOME to 1st day of spring
 
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Just today, I replaced my oil pan gasket, side cover gasket and pilot bearing in my new (r) 2f transplant.....oh, and painted some stuff.
 
got a 4" lift for it. Had a time trying to get all these seized up bolts out. A lot of persuasion from deep creep and some heat. now trying to figure out which springs go on the front and which on the back :hhmm:
 
Look at what I found !!

While installing the auxiliary gas tank plumbing I had plenty of chance to reflect on what thousands of RVr's in my business life gripe about every day. Not enough room in the rig. Well, I discovered 1,840 cubic inches of valuable storage space, right above my nose and far behind the rear tires inside the fender wells. What the hey! If I’m going to put the spare gas tank underneath, why not put a tool box there also?

Behind the gas tank filler pipe I built a 770 cu inch box and then on the opposite side another with 1070 cu inches. Each has a 4" wide by 12" directional hatch door with a Southco locking draw latch. Each compartment has a sheet metal floor and rear wall sealed against the elements. Two pieces of sheet metal for each box is all that is needed. Haven't determined how to seal the doors to make them water resistant yet but I'm fooling with that and I have a wide variety of gaskets on the shelf to work with.

I left the jump seat support / bolt mechanism in place. I do not plan on using those seats but see plenty of use for the mechanism, maybe to secure a refer mount or, bench seat belts or,....

Total cost was $38.00 for the latches and about $12.00 for Dremel cut off wheels. Less expensive latches are available but I like the idea oft helping honest people stay that way. Sheet metal came from the scrap bin. Estimated time involved to do the driver side is about 4 hours. The passenger side took a couple of days including R & D and hunting down the appropriate locks. The sheet metal templates for the one side can be used for the other side. Material cost for the gaskets for the doors shouldn't be over $10.00 retail if that is even necessary.

Today, I will primer-seal and under coat the bottom side of the fenders and complete the installation of the boxes.
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Pictures


While installing the auxiliary gas tank plumbing I had plenty of chance to reflect on what thousands of RVr's in my business life gripe about every day. Not enough room in the rig. Well, I discovered 1,840 cubic inches of valuable storage space, right above my nose and far behind the rear tires inside the fender wells. What the hey! If I’m going to put the spare gas tank underneath, why not put a tool box there also?

Behind the gas tank filler pipe I built a 770 cu inch box and then on the opposite side another with 1070 cu inches. Each has a 4" wide by 12" directional hatch door with a Southco locking draw latch. Each compartment has a sheet metal floor and rear wall sealed against the elements. Two pieces of sheet metal for each box is all that is needed. Haven't determined how to seal the doors to make them water resistant yet but I'm fooling with that and I have a wide variety of gaskets on the shelf to work with.

I left the jump seat support / bolt mechanism in place. I do not plan on using those seats but see plenty of use for the mechanism, maybe to secure a refer mount or, bench seat belts or,....

Total cost was $38.00 for the latches and about $12.00 for Dremel cut off wheels. Less expensive latches are available but I like the idea oft helping honest people stay that way. Sheet metal came from the scrap bin. Estimated time involved to do the driver side is about 4 hours. The passenger side took a couple of days including R & D and hunting down the appropriate locks. The sheet metal templates for the one side can be used for the other side. Material cost for the gaskets for the doors shouldn't be over $10.00 retail if that is even necessary.

Today, I will primer-seal and under coat the bottom side of the fenders and complete the installation of the boxes.
 
Hmmm...late night preps for Round Up and load on the trailer. Arrive at Round Up, get delivery of Mark's Off Road 4" rear springs. Install springs and extended stainless brake line before it ever left the trailer. Bad backfiring thru the carb....reset timing. Install new winch rope on the PTO winch. Wheel for two days get back to Dallas, wake up and now....clear off the snow so I can unload.
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Bought an escort blower motor, cut the housing and installed the blower on the heater housing. Next up sandblast and paint.

Interesting. :hhmm: Will have to do a tech search on that one. I'd like more airflow from the heater.
 
While installing the auxiliary gas tank plumbing I had plenty of chance to reflect on what thousands of RVr's in my business life gripe about every day. Not enough room in the rig. Well, I discovered 1,840 cubic inches of valuable storage space, right above my nose and far behind the rear tires inside the fender wells. What the hey! If I’m going to put the spare gas tank underneath, why not put a tool box there also?

Behind the gas tank filler pipe I built a 770 cu inch box and then on the opposite side another with 1070 cu inches. Each has a 4" wide by 12" directional hatch door with a Southco locking draw latch. Each compartment has a sheet metal floor and rear wall sealed against the elements. Two pieces of sheet metal for each box is all that is needed. Haven't determined how to seal the doors to make them water resistant yet but I'm fooling with that and I have a wide variety of gaskets on the shelf to work with.

I left the jump seat support / bolt mechanism in place. I do not plan on using those seats but see plenty of use for the mechanism, maybe to secure a refer mount or, bench seat belts or,....

Total cost was $38.00 for the latches and about $12.00 for Dremel cut off wheels. Less expensive latches are available but I like the idea oft helping honest people stay that way. Sheet metal came from the scrap bin. Estimated time involved to do the driver side is about 4 hours. The passenger side took a couple of days including R & D and hunting down the appropriate locks. The sheet metal templates for the one side can be used for the other side. Material cost for the gaskets for the doors shouldn't be over $10.00 retail if that is even necessary.

Today, I will primer-seal and under coat the bottom side of the fenders and complete the installation of the boxes.

Clever idea.
 
Installed a clutch master and adjusted the pedal. Muuuuccchhh better!
 
figured out the spring situation. here is the new stance with the 4" skyjacker and 34" 10.50 swampers
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