What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (37 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

is a float set too low or something?
Look in the porthole window and see for yourself...
some engines like more advanced timing, give that a try.
when did you last adjust the valves ?

20240602_165426.webp
 
Could be set wrong on the float. Easiest way for me to hunt vacuum leaks is with a can of WD 40 with a pee tube. Cold engine idling, spray lightly and quickly along the gasketed surfaces for vacuum - intake manifold and carb base and the carb sections if RPMs kick up there is your leak. Pays to have a fire extinguisher handy - thus lightly and quickly on cold engine.

Weak fuel pump? You could put a $10 electric fuel pump in line or bypass the mechanical one as a test.

Brake booster can leak - Put a big hemostat on the hose - see if that makes any difference - manual brakes take way more pedal pressure to work on your test drive.

Carb work isn't for everyone. I have bailed out several folks that got lost on their first attempts.

Did you look at the adjustment screws? Some gorilla's crank down on the screws damaging the smooth taper on the screws with a ring or the seats are damage - either make adjusting properly very difficult and flustering at best.
 
Last edited:
Look in the porthole window and see for yourself...
some engines like more advanced timing, give that a try.
when did you last adjust the valves ?
Valves about 2 years ago when I put the head on. I’ve been trying for over a year to get it into mudrack’s for a hot valve adjust and carb timing but he’s too busy.
 
Could be set wrong on the float. Easiest way for me to hunt vacuum leaks is with a can of WD 40 with a pee tube. Cold engine idling, spray lightly and quickly along the gasketed surfaces for vacuum - intake manifold and carb base and the carb sections if RPMs kick up there is your leak. Pays to have a fire extinguisher handy - thus lightly and quickly on cold engine.

Weak fuel pump? You could put a $10 electric fuel pump in line or bypass the mechanical one as a test.

Brake booster can leak - Put a big hemostat on the hose - see if that makes any difference - manual brakes take way more pedal pressure to work on your test drive.

Carb work isn't for everyone. I have bailed out several folks that got lost on their first attempts.
I’ll check again for vacuum leaks.
New oem pump when I put the head on, about 600 miles ago.
No brake booster present.
I just watched a tuning video that was pretty basic. I just need a tach and vacuum gauge.
 
Valves about 2 years ago when I put the head on. I’ve been trying for over a year to get it into mudrack’s for a hot valve adjust and carb timing but he’s too busy.
You don't need Gary to adjust your valves or your carb. I bet there's videos for that too, and how-to posts in the FAQs...
 
You don't need Gary to adjust your valves or your carb. I bet there's videos for that too, and how-to posts in the FAQs...
I’ve been playing with this pos carb for 2 years. I obviously don’t get it. This summer, out of the blue it decided to run just fine for 3-4 weeks until it didn’t. Then I found the bad plunger. Now the more I mess with it, it just gets worse. I can’t get it to idle and it’s backfiring out of the top of the carb. I’m not smart enough to figure it out and I lack probably some key tools.
I barely got the valves adjusted cold, there’s no way I have the patience, or skills to do them hot.
Honestly it’s a wonder this thing runs at all due to the fact I’m the only one that has touched it during my ownership and I’ve replaced the head, exhaust manifold, water pump, carburetor…
 
@6f40j9 I've also enjoy the OTRAMM carb video on YouTube. Maybe it’s the one you’ve seen?
Although it’s 2F
 
A Backfire thru the carb could be a lean condition also, it could have a vacuum leak.
 
When I was running a Weber carb and DUI distributor, the 40 ran ok.. timing was set to the factory 7*… it usually started hard and coughed until it warmed up. I did advance it about 1/4” pass the mark ( turned out to be around 11*) and the truck ran much better and not nearly as sluggish.

Since all of the Sniper stuff was already on my shelf, I did convert it all to electronic but timing could be your next thing to rule out
 
Just because you bought and installed new parts don't mean they are still good. You can check the fuel pump, after engine is idling enough to run. Shut it off, disconnect the fuel hose at the carb and put it in a coffee can. Start engine and watch the fuel flow - smooth pulsing is fine; surges as in fuel flow then nothing then fuel flow again isn't good.
 
One thing I have noticed is the idle mixture screw seems to have no effect (by ear anyway) on rpms.
According to the carb video above you back it out to raise the rpms, then turn the idle screw to bring them back down, and repeat.
I had it all the way in and several turns out with no change. 🤷🏼‍♂️
 
I barely got the valves adjusted cold, there’s no way I have the patience, or skills to do them hot.
so adjust them cold, or warm. You can check the gaps when hot and adjust them as they cool. Get them close anyway. For an hour of shop time at Mudrak's you can buy the key tools you need and you get to keep the tools. The more you practice adjusting the valves, the quicker and easier it gets.
 
I had it all the way in and several turns out with no change. 🤷🏼‍♂️
Happened to me once, I put a gasket in backwards and partially blocked the air passage that goes to the mixture screw. Take it apart and follow that internal passage with little zip ties to see where it goes and is clear.
 
^^^^^^this is where I'd start:^^^

Your idle circuit could be blocked or clogged.
The carb is suppling fuel or air thru another circuit. Are the venturis leaking fuel at idle? Are the throttle plates closing? Make sure nothing is stopping them from closing. They could be hanging up on a gasket, linkage or dirt.
 
Tried to fix this nightmare of a carburetor and failed, again.
I was warned.
The accelerator rod plunger failed for the second time, so I got the city racer one with the leather boot.
Installed, everything seemed hunky dory, albeit with a slight miss.
The timing is set with the bb on the line.
Took it for a test drive and same old same old.
It drove fine under acceleration but when I decelerated, it backfired bad and died. Bump started it and drove back home where it alternated between dying at stop signs or high idling.
Pulled into the front yard and it high idled, so I fiddled with it.
I had the mixture screw out 1.5 turns so I turned it in .5 turn. Didn’t seem to make much difference. I revved it a couple times and it returned to idle for about 15 seconds, then died.
I’m out of ideas because I don’t know what I’m doing in the first place.
I can’t afford efi and I don’t mind a carburetor, if I could just get one to work.

View attachment 4001269

View attachment 4001270

View attachment 4001271
You can always buy the aftermarket Chinacarb while you rebuild the carb. I’ve run this one for the past few years. It works. Carburetor Carb For 1969-1987 Toyota Land Cruiser 2F 4230CC FJ40 21100 - https://mostplusauto.com/products/1x-carburetor-carb-for-1969-1987-toyota-land-cruiser-2f-4230cc-fj40-2110061012?srsltid=AfmBOophHL0lSnvINPc84ZsB6E2WvFVVL0X356Wch1J0JvWXVkgQZGkJ
 
I think I need a bunch of brackets, a different throttle cable and air cleaner top to run that one.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom