What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (38 Viewers)

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Thankyou.

CCOT
Bought probably 4 years ago and sitting on the shelf waiting for this to happen.
Fit was OK.
The lip they had bent didn't reach all the way to the tailgate opening edge. I had to cut the lip off and make the splice in about 3/4" in from the tailgate edge (see pix).
Otherwise happy with them.

I had previously taken measurements off a stock clean rig that helped me set them at the right height as mine and been hacked, Along with my rockers.

In hindsight given the amount of time I am spending patching and the condition of my wheel wells and rear floor, the idea of full rear half tub replacement probably would have got me out ahead (If I was billing my time hourly, and assuming it fit reasonably okay) for those considering something similar...

The rear sill is 2.5 x 2.5 x 3/16 angle x 51" long, with a 2.5 x 3/16 flat welded to make a C channel with some vertical support added inside and nuts welded in for the tailgate hinges.
I needed the two and a half inches to reach back to non rusted floorboard, and a two and a half inch height was right to support the body on new body mounts.

The top of the wheel wells is 1/8" plate, cut to the curve of the quarter panel with a cardboard template, and a 1/8 x 3/4" lip added to attach the quarter skin.

I have a custom 4x4 labs family roll cage that sits flat on a mounting plate on top of the wheelwell so I don't need the stock roll cage mounts. I will add additional bracing as needed.
 
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I was gonna vote chain it to a tree and pull the frame with a winch or another stout vehicle. I've gotten a few totaled vehicles back on the road that way and have even gotten the alignment and panel gaps to acceptable condition for a daily driver. This can be a pretty simple repair as long as you don't let perfection get in the way of "Good Enough".
You need to take a long straight edge and run it down the frame rail and see if it bent. The front horn could just be just off both sides and fabricate a new one. Or heated with a rose bud torch and porta powered straight after removing the bumper and pushing off the other frame rail.
 
Thankyou.

CCOT
Bought probably 4 years ago and sitting on the shelf waiting for this to happen.
Fit was OK.
The lip they had bent didn't reach all the way to the tailgate opening edge. I had to cut the lip off and make the splice in about 3/4" in from the tailgate edge (see pix).
Otherwise happy with them.

I had previously taken measurements off a stock clean rig that helped me set them at the right height as mine and been hacked, Along with my rockers.

In hindsight given the amount of time I am spending patching and the condition of my wheel wells and rear floor, the idea of full rear half tub replacement probably would have got me out ahead (If I was billing my time hourly, and assuming it fit reasonably okay) for those considering something similar...

The rear sill is 2.5 x 2.5 x 3/16 angle x 51" long, with a 2.5 x 3/16 flat welded to make a C channel with some vertical support added inside and nuts welded in for the tailgate hinges.
I needed the two and a half inches to reach back to non rusted floorboard, and a two and a half inch height was right to support the body on new body mounts.

The top of the wheel wells is 1/8" plate, cut to the curve of the quarter panel with a cardboard template, and a 1/8 x 3/4" lip added to attach the quarter skin.

I have a custom 4x4 labs family roll cage that sits flat on a mounting plate on top of the wheelwell so I don't need the stock roll cage mounts. I will add additional bracing as needed.

Thank you for that. My rear sill isn’t great. In fact it’s borderline bad.

I tell myself rub when I do it. Which turns into a big project.
 
CCOT makes nice looking rear sills, and if that's all you need seems like a good solution.

It depends on how nice you want the rig and what other warts you have and are willing to live with vs getting an all new/partial tub.
It becomes a slippery slope from the sill though as a number of items tie into it and make sense to do at the same time...
How is the cargo floor? Wheel wells? Quarters? Body mounts?
 
CCOT makes nice looking rear sills, and if that's all you need seems like a good solution.

It depends on how nice you want the rig and what other warts you have and are willing to live with vs getting an all new/partial tub.
It becomes a slippery slope from the sill though as a number of items tie into it and make sense to do at the same time...
How is the cargo floor? Wheel wells? Quarters? Body mounts?

quarters are cut for flares, passenger banged up, sill is not great. Passenger floor under fuel tank is rotten.

Cowl is not great, looks like it probably took a tumble on the passenger front or at least caught a tree.

But it runs and drives and I like the character for now.
 
quarters are cut for flares, passenger banged up, sill is not great. Passenger floor under fuel tank is rotten.

Cowl is not great, looks like it probably took a tumble on the passenger front or at least caught a tree.

But it runs and drives and I like the character for now.
Texted you but it was green.
 
Just a follow up to my situation. I ordered new thrust washers and nuts from cruiser outfitters. I reassembled and the drum style warn hub was able to fit. Not sure why the thrust washer was removed in the first place???

Thank you! I'm glad to hear everything worked as planned.
 
Glad it’s not a CHEVY! Looks bad ass and CLEAN!
I bought it with the 5.7 SBC. I spent a lot of time tuning and threw bunch of new parts to it. It ran great but I was not satisfied with it plus I want to put Toyota DNA back in it. I didn’t really mind the SBC engine but could stand opening a hood on a Toyota and see it in the engine bay.
Here’s the before with SBC:
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put on my aftermarket heater duct/ hose - what a nightmare. the fit was poor and frankly, I should have just made my own but since I had it, I figured I'd make it work.
First the hose was a little too big to be secure on the plastic duct (or maybe my old duct was old and loose?) I made a mesh insert to hold the form so once I placed the tube, I could at least secure it somehow. I tried big zip ties, velcro straps etc to hold the tube secure but nothing really was working.The tube would bunch up and fold over etc. I ended up cutting some sections of 4" inner tube to use as rubber bands. Like I said, nightmare: no room to work under the dash, everything was sliding around and bunching up. Probably took 3-4 hours to get it all on and straight. It's not too bad from the front but it's a little more wrinkly in the back than I'd like but should work until I find a better solution.

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Refreshed the hardtop with 2 new coats! Last application lasted 8 years.
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