What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (37 Viewers)

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Got the heater installed and the heat working this past weekend. It was actually toasty on my way into work this morning. Need to fix the heat pull cable. The housing separated from the pull lever so it opens the valve fine, when I push in the lever to close the valve, the cable housing moves vs the actual cable so the valve doesn't close. Tried to epoxy the housing to the pull fitting but it came undone while I was playing with it once all hooked up.
Was thinking of bending up a piece of metal and wrapping where the cable housing attaches to the pull lever, screwing the metal together to clamp the two pieces together to hopefully stop the housing from moving.
Either that or uncurl the end of the cable, pull off the cable housing and install a new housing. Thinking that may work better, there seems to be a lot of friction inside the cable housing.

In my experience, the stock heater valve on the firewall gets crusty with age and never shuts off completely, even if the pull cable is working correctly. I've said before that EternaHeat is an undocumented feature of the 40 heating system. :)
 
In my experience, the stock heater valve on the firewall gets crusty with age and never shuts off completely, even if the pull cable is working correctly. I've said before that EternaHeat is an undocumented feature of the 40 heating system. :)
It is the best feature when driving across Kansas in early August with the top on!
 
In my experience, the stock heater valve on the firewall gets crusty with age and never shuts off completely, even if the pull cable is working correctly. I've said before that EternaHeat is an undocumented feature of the 40 heating system. :)
I got tired of the stock heater valve. I installed 50-1555 - Heater Valve Kit | Bypass Style, Electronic Servo Operated - https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/heater-valve-kit-50-1555 it has a bypass so you can get coolant circulation to the back of the head when closed.
 
@mrboatman Just added this to my cart…thank you for the information on this valve. I had no clue it was even something

By the way: between Tax and shipping…add another $25.00 😡
 
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I got tired of the stock heater valve. I installed 50-1555 - Heater Valve Kit | Bypass Style, Electronic Servo Operated - https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/heater-valve-kit-50-1555 it has a bypass so you can get coolant circulation to the back of the head when closed.
I got tired of the stock heater valve, wanted to keep it simple though.



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I got tired of the stock heater valve. I installed 50-1555 - Heater Valve Kit | Bypass Style, Electronic Servo Operated - https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/heater-valve-kit-50-1555 it has a bypass so you can get coolant circulation to the back of the head when closed.
I got tired of the lack of any heater whatsoever in my South African spec 45, so installed a standard heater and valve.
I doubt that the engine was designed to rely on heater bypass to stay cool since some markets omitted the heater entirely - I'm curious what our mates down under have experienced in this regard.
 
I got tired of the stock heater valve. I installed 50-1555 - Heater Valve Kit | Bypass Style, Electronic Servo Operated - https://www.oldairproducts.com/product/heater-valve-kit-50-1555 it has a bypass so you can get coolant circulation to the back of the head when closed.
I got tired of the lack of any heater whatsoever in my South African spec 45, so installed a standard heater and valve.
I doubt that the engine was designed to rely on heater bypass to stay cool since some markets omitted the heater entirely - I'm curious what our mates down under have experienced in this regard.
 
I got tired of the stock heater valve, wanted to keep it simple though.
I did have a choice. I just installed the Vintage Air heater, it came with an electrically powered hot water valve that I was instructed to install in-line somewhere and then plug part of the wiring harness in to. It looks like a cheap piece of plastic that will break at a very inopportune time and either quit moving or dump all your coolant out. I don't need a cheap piece of plastic with a limited life expectancy, I don't need a valve that I control from the driver seat, I might turn that valve twice a year. Dunno what I'm gonna do with this...
 

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I did have a choice. I just installed the Vintage Air heater, it came with an electrically powered hot water valve that I was instructed to install in-line somewhere and then plug part of the wiring harness in to. It looks like a cheap piece of plastic that will break at a very inopportune time and either quit moving or dump all your coolant out. I don't need a cheap piece of plastic with a limited life expectancy, I don't need a valve that I control from the driver seat, I might turn that valve twice a year. Dunno what I'm gonna do with this...

Those valves are reliable and work great.
 
Is that a front bumper or replacement rear sill in the back? 61 the front bumper has the same radius as the rear of the tub. My 61 FHT rust is limited to the rear sill.
Rear sill.
Im in the same boat, only rust was the rear sill.

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