samatulich
SILVER Star
My brother picked it up in Anchorage when he had the cruiser. It was a Craigslist find, not sure who built it.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (62 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Looks like the one @lcwizard use to make. Made a version with all round tubing and one with the vertical part square tubing. All were black originally. Really like this brush guard but it doesn't work with a factory PTO winch.
Cut some rubber gaskets and bolted the cage in.
1911
chupacabra
Mine leans to the passenger side also, FWIW.
JDNs78FJ40
SILVER Star
Got the glass put back in the hardtop using new rubber from CityRacer, used the rope method with a lot of help with my daughter. She loves to see this thing coming back together.
How many square feet of Kilmat did you use?
Also fwiw, when I installed the HFS lift from CCOT last summer, they give a rear passenger side spring prepared to fix cruiser lean. Previously I thought the same as you that it was more the driver side so I even questioned this, but I installed it as stated, and it sits really well. So I guess the cruiser lean is usually passenger side.
JDNs78FJ40
SILVER Star
I bought 36 sq feet and had plenty for the tub floor front and back and for inside of the front doors and still have 4 or 5 pieces left over. I think it really helped putting it in the doors.
I think it works the oposite of what's intuitive... I always thought you put a shim on the HIGH side (so shimming the passenger side would mean it's leaning low-driver.
Is there anything special about that shim, or it just a piece of 3/8 plate with a hole in it? If that's all it takes I can make one in my garage. I imagine you need a longer center pin, but I've used grade 8 cap screws with great success in the past.
Ok I get that, it makes sense now. Here's a pic of them before installing where you can see the extra plate on the top of the spring. Then after.
Rear Passenger installed:
Rear Driver installed:
Got it - what's that plate look like from the top down? I imagine it's just a hole for the spring pin to go through (just like you'd see with a caster shim). How thick is it? I always assumed it was around 3/8 or 1/2" - looks close to that when I compare it to the thickness of the leaves in your spring pack, but then mounted on the truck it looks like it could be thicker.
Did a day trip out to a semi-local trail:
One issue I did encounter was gas spilling out of the vented gas cap as I did top off the tank before hitting the trail. Will need to do some research on retrofitting an evap system so I can use a sealed gas cap.
One issue I did encounter was gas spilling out of the vented gas cap as I did top off the tank before hitting the trail. Will need to do some research on retrofitting an evap system so I can use a sealed gas cap.
pb4ugo
SILVER Star
Here's a pic of the stk Toyota cruiser lean blocks. I think CCOT sells them too. They're really nothing more than 3/8" plates w/a hole. My 40 leans to the right side too. Back in the late 80's I got tired of looking at my 40 leaning to the right, so while having some beers I decided to swap springs side to side in the rear to correct it. I did all the work and ended up with the same result,
. I then blamed it on some frame repairs I did previously. Later after the turn of the Century, I looked into the lean blocks and decided I didn't want to use them because they would lower my 40, which seamed to me, like that was going in the wrong direction. I decided to make a longer shackle for the low side to level things out.
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Here's a pic of the stk Toyota cruiser lean blocks. I think CCOT sells them too. They're really nothing more than 3/8" plates w/a hole. My 40 leans to the right side too. Back in the late 80's I got tired of looking at my 40 leaning to the right, so while having some beers I decided to swap springs side to side in the rear to correct it. I did all the work and ended up with the same result,
View attachment 2557220
I totally understand the advantage to the Toyota version. The CCOT version has a through-hole with an extended spring pin so the head of the pin can still index with the spring mount. The problem is sliding a new, longer spring pin requires you to completely diassemble the U-Bolt plates. I bet the raised center on this one was so that you could just loosen up the U-bolts and slide this in, over the top of the old spring pin. Clearly, either option would work.
Thanks all for confirming my suspicions. I'm not sure how long a spring pack typically needs to "break in" - I may give it a month or two or another wheeling trip and see where that lands me... It's tough to say but it SEEMS like one spring articulates/compresses more than the other but I also may just have been staring at this for too long. I've made sure nothing is binding up, no overtightened shackles, etc. So the only think I can figure is one spring is just stiffer, or I've got a malfunctioning shock but there's no outward indication of leaks or damage. I'll probably inspect the shocks when I build the shim just to be sure.
Finally finished my lift. I went with OME springs and Bilstein shocks, and I got about 2.5" out of it overall. It was a lot of work for a first-timer flying solo, but I learned a ton and it's pretty friggin' rewarding now that I can see the final project. Wheels and tires are next.
Thanks man. You got it ... 15s with some 31" KO2s. Now I just need to decide on black or grey wheels .... leaning towards grey.
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