How did you attach the hubcaps? What do you mean when you say they “reversed the rim?” Any shots of that? Just curious because I’ve thought of going this route.
What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (21 Viewers)
- Thread starter IH8MUD
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How did you attach the hubcaps? What do you mean when you say they “reversed the rim?” Any shots of that? Just curious because I’ve thought of going this route.
The center is welded onto the rim backwards. It is the only way they can get the Cruiser 3.5" backspace with the 12 series wheel. It really doesn't look so bad. Just kind of a smooth dish look rather than the "steps" that the original 40 wheel has. I will attach a picture.
The hubcaps are an adapted factory cap that I am working on. Not sure If i will be selling them or not but basically it involves cutting the back of a factory hubcap and tig welding on a ring that fits the Wheel Vintiques wheel. The drawback so far is that I can't get the edge of the factory cap flush with the wheel center face. You actually can hardly see it looking at it, but it is an issue I suppose. I will try to post up pictures when I get home so at least others can copy the idea if they want.
I will be selling my nearly new take offs in 16x7 with the 3.5" backspace (4 of them), powder coated RAL 7037 grey (nice factory color match) as soon as I clean em up and wrap em up. I will post in the classifieds when they are ready to roll (no pun intended).
TCEd
SILVER Star
Message me regarding the wheels you'll be selling. Ed
Picture would be cool - as I had thought about grabbing a set of the series 12 rims in a custom backspace (in fact I have a quote from Wheel Vintiques from sometime last year, I just never pulled the trigger).
You certainly don't notice the gap from 5-6 feet away in the picture above.
Thanks! I kind of see what you're saying.
David70FJ40
Older Than Most
Also tried Wheel Vintiques series 12 wheels. Ordered 15 x 10 and specified a 3 1/2" backspace. When they arrived I tried them and found their backspace was more like 3 3/4". When I called I was told that 3 1/2" was not possible exactly so I returned them. The refund took two weeks and two phone calls and they still stiffed me $10 on the return.
Now THAT’S how you take a top off!
You know what's hilarious? I was so focused on the wheels that I didn't see the hard top floating there
I’d take my roof off far more frequently with that around... 
I’d take my roof off far more frequently with that around...
Seriously, can you swing by my house this evening?
AlaskanWheeler
SILVER Star
@dogfishlake, if the price is right, and they fit a 17" wheel vinteque I may be interested in a set of those hubcaps
Drove it!
Shakedown runs and 350 break in continue - I put about 50 miles on it tonight, and found a gravel lot where I could make sure the transfercase (rebuilt by me with LOTS of help from @orangefj45) worked as it should.
Everything is running well, but tonight I found something odd -
I get a small fluctuation in amperage, which in turn creates a small (30rpm) idle fluctuation. Normally, idle fluctuates between ~710-740 rpm. I thought that was just the nature of a carbureted engine. What is REALLY odd is that the more electrical load I put on the truck, the BETTER the idle gets. Idle drops (to be expected) under load, but if I have lights, wipers, and fan all running, the truck idles perfectly at 600rpm. Zero (I mean zero) fluctuation or surge.
Alternator issue? Distributor issue? I’ve seen idles hey WORSE when accespries sap power from the distributor - this is the first time I’ve seen it get better...
Tomorrow I’ll unhook the alternator and see if my idle stabilizes without it. Any other thoughts of what might cause something like this?
Shakedown runs and 350 break in continue - I put about 50 miles on it tonight, and found a gravel lot where I could make sure the transfercase (rebuilt by me with LOTS of help from @orangefj45) worked as it should.
Everything is running well, but tonight I found something odd -
I get a small fluctuation in amperage, which in turn creates a small (30rpm) idle fluctuation. Normally, idle fluctuates between ~710-740 rpm. I thought that was just the nature of a carbureted engine. What is REALLY odd is that the more electrical load I put on the truck, the BETTER the idle gets. Idle drops (to be expected) under load, but if I have lights, wipers, and fan all running, the truck idles perfectly at 600rpm. Zero (I mean zero) fluctuation or surge.
Alternator issue? Distributor issue? I’ve seen idles hey WORSE when accespries sap power from the distributor - this is the first time I’ve seen it get better...
Tomorrow I’ll unhook the alternator and see if my idle stabilizes without it. Any other thoughts of what might cause something like this?
rkymtnflyfisher
Trout Bum
Took it fishing today.
I'd look pretty dumb driving down the side of the highway all the way to GA just for some beer!
What the heck
I feel like your work-to-fishing ratio is unfairly staggered toward fishing. Also your "I took it out and drove it" pictures are like 500% cooler than mine.
When I get it figured out, I will post up how to do it regardless of whether I'm selling them or not just for the diy'er.
I'm an alternator moron for the most part but doesn't the voltage regulator kick the alt output up under high demand? So maybe your alternator or regulator is failing or marginal when on low demand?
A guess
Show off.......
I was thinking maybe something like that. Just seems like the opposite of what SHOULD be happening with a bad regulator. I'll probably run it a bit with the alternator unhooked tomorrow to see if it smooths out.
