What have you done to your Land Cruiser this week? (42 Viewers)

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Well, it's taken a lot of brain-power & pondering, but I've conjured a win-win compromise on my paint scheme; the paint scheme having been of major importance to me.

For a while now, I've planned (unwillingly) to deviate from the Toyota OEM colors. I'll instead utilize a United States Federal code color, which happens to be a hue of military camouflage, once called 'Aircraft Green,' but now called, 'Gray-black.' Was used commonly on Army Cobra attack helicopters from the mid 1970's until the mid 1980's. And for its color code number, I'm not aware of its use elsewhere.

I'm still planning on going this route. .... but there was a rub.

A couple weeks back, the rub was, I took a lady-friend out for margaritas & Mexican dinner. She & I shared a plate of Mexican food heaped upon itself under a blanket of some sort of sauce, but we together inhaled the ocean of margaritas. Well... not that much... :) I happened to have my laptop computer with me, and while perusing through the library of vehicle colors on the computer, she stopped at a file folder titled, "Keswick Green - Land Rover." ... "What's this one ?", she asked. And as soon as she saw the gaggle of pictures of Keswick Green Land Rover Defenders, she instantly said to me, while still looking at the computer screen, "This is the one your Land Cruiser will be painted."

And for her, that was the immediate end of that subject.

Sooooooo... after much thought, I've decided to NOT paint the entire FJ40 solidly Keswick Green (although the entire vehicle as Keswick Green - would NOT look bad at all - would not at all be OEM, but would indeed look pleasing) ... It's the Aircraft Green that's perhaps the more-me. Those who know me fairly well think so too. My take (and those who know me) : the Aircraft Green is overly masculine; is rugged-looking; blends in with the forests; will do well in the desert; looks great in snow; is sparked from a Cobra helicopter that holds a near & dear intrinsic meaning to me; and interestingly, was a color that was commonly used on Cobra helicopters, at military bases in Japan, during the exact time period when my own '40 was built.

The compromise I've made to myself, and to my lady-friend, is that I'll incorporate BOTH colors onto the re-build of the vehicle !!

It was an instant thumbs-up.

To do this : the outside will have a 3-inch wide Keswick Green stripe along the upper rear of the tub; which will carry on forward to the horizontally protruding bar on each of the two large side doors. And at the rear of the vehicle, at the opening for the ambulance doors, I've already fabricated a steel gate (that will take place of barn doors). My gate looks somewhat along the lines of a cattle gate. It will be painted in the Aircraft Green, but will continue the Keswick Green line across it's topside.

And to tie the outside to the inside, the inside floorboard, including rear wheel wells, will be Keswick Green (either paint or tinted bedliner). Plus some other portions of the interior will be the Keswick Green - - Everything else in the interior will either be stock gray or Aircraft Green.

My concept of compromise :

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The actual hue of Aircraft Green :

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An example of Keswick Green :

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For my 1979 : Instead of initially installing its hard top, I'm believing I'll acquire the Real Steal bows & a black, 5-window weather-proof top from either Trollhole or SOR (along the lines of the provided example picture above).

~Skydog
 
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While the top is at the shop having the rust repaired, paint applied and top riveted to the welded rain gutter, I am doing the small stuff I am qualified for. My son blasted some parts for the doors and I primed and painted them today. Good call with the Dupli-Color stainless steel paint. Goes on easy and looks good although it dries a little rough. I will give everything a day or so to fully cure then sand with a very fine paper then coat with clear.

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hey @Skydog , don't forget the nice RAF blue , it is also very nice ;):D

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LOL Jim ... you're just going to confuse me further !!!... :frown: ... hahahah... That RAF Blue sure does look similar to Arles Blue, but I can see this RAF is more gray. When you were selecting the color for your own rig, I can understand how you were considering this RAF in comparison to the Cadet Blue, and that of the hue that you ultimately conjured & ended-up with...

Blue Skies 2-ya !!

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:beer: ~Marc
 
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@gator25 Your rig looks awesome! Especially how well the front end lines up. I am having a bear of a time getting the front end to even come close to lining up...

Thank you. Sorry so late responding @fjdiesel . When we lined up the body and front cap, I left the body mounts loose I also had to put two 1/8" shims on the right 2 upper bolts between the frame and fender support. On the left fender I used a 1/8" shim on the top front and a 1/16" shim on the rear top bolt between the frame and the support. The hood had to be shoved all the way back to get the front corners to line up, then the aprons were readjusted. Once everything was good the body mounts were tightened. Of course your truck may or may not need shims, hope this helps.
 
And I thought my friend's j**p was the only thing in the world with those wheels.View attachment 1571579
Yeah I know, they're pretty ugly. They'll have to do till I can scrape up enough for some new steelies, I could have done with out having to see them on that thing.
 
Over the last 3 weeks:
Reseal transfer case, replace clutch slave & master, replace tie rod boot, adjust valves, repair speedo drive, replace coolant hoses (OEM), oil change, new cap, rotor & points (federal & CA points), all new fluids...garage floor is dry!!:bounce:

Put my doors back on as the weather has turned. Lastly, filled gas and took Murphy for a ride. :cool:

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Was it tough changing the switch?

Removing the instrument cluster gives great access. Hardest part of that is removing the speedo cable! Make sure you disconnect the battery as the Amp gauge wires are exposed and can easily short when removing the cluster.
 
All the rust has been eliminated, the sides have been fitted to the tub and the lift gate is in. The header looks to be longer so the shop will have to compare the original with this one to make the corrections.

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The rain gutter has been welded together and attached to the fiberglass cap and the cap was mocked up to the sides to relocate some bolt holes that were wildly out of place. Is anyone sharp eyed enough to see what is missing?

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Answer:

No rivets. Seam adhesive only. A cleaner attachment with a tighter more weather proof closure.
 
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All the rust has been eliminated, the sides have been fitted to the tub and the lift gate is in. The header looks to be longer so the shop will have to compare the original with this one to make the corrections.

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The rain gutter has been welded together and attached to the fiberglass cap and the cap was mocked up to the sides to relocate some bolt holes that were wildly out of place. Is anyone sharp eyed enough to see what is missing?

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David who is doing your body work? I know you are 2 hours from Fayetteville but I'm beginning to get desperate.
 
The shop is Tinman Hot Rods, Restorations and Customs in Thomasville. Small family business, Dad, Mom and son. They do good work and are about 4 months behind now. I have been waiting several months for them to get started. Their labor rate is only $35/hr so you can understand why they are so far behind.
 
I wonder if they would take the parts for rust removal and priming as I take mine apart? And then paint them all when finished.
 
All you can do is ask.
 
View attachment 1575820 Is anyone sharp eyed enough to see what is missing?

No gas tank filler. I did the same on my 71 FJ40. I use the 40 to run logging roads, and also as a hunting rig. It often sets on the side of the logging road, which puts the very short filler neck on the low side of the vehicle. If the gas tank has recently been filled the gas will often flow back out the filler neck, and down the side of the 40.

A friend built a cross body tank for me, and also changed the filler neck to the other side of the 40, which is the high side of the tank when the 40 sets beside the logging road. Since this is the passenger side in the U.S. the filler neck is also no longer under the rear passengers feet when they get in or out.

Don
 
I wonder if they would take the parts for rust removal and priming as I take mine apart? And then paint them all when finished.

I'd want to keep things together so there's less chance of pieces going missing... I'd hate be having to track down a lost header bar or hatch hinge.
 

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