Build '75 FJ40 Ranch Rebuild

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GHalll

GHalll

10 Year
Joined
Sep 13, 2015
Threads
32
Messages
527
Location
SanAntonio
Well, I guess it's time to start a rebuild thread instead of starting a bunch of random threads for questions.

I've done several many rebuild projects to date and will post pics of them here in time. My current project is a front axle rebuild with a disk brake conversion using parts from a FJ60. The overall theory for the build is to only do things that can be put back to factory easily while keeping all original parts. Just a few tasteful upgrades while rebuilding the rest. Don't worry, the bezel is no longer on upside down. This is a wonderful forum, I really appreciate it and the members!!

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Picture of the wipers for reference sake..
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Question here: Do I need to take a wire wheel to the outside of the ball where it's rough and rusty to give the wipers a better chance? Is there a better way to shine them up?

Races are out.
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New races in and the ball has been ground to accept the 60 outer birfs. Suggestion: fit the outer birf while attached to the inner shaft with the old seal still in to check fitment as to not wreck the new marlin seal.
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Jerked out the old seal.
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And...... The place is a wreck!!
 
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After my buddy blasted all my knuckle parts, we were sitting there talking and decided it a good idea to chase the threads on the knuckle and hub... With knuckle studs, locking hub studs and most everything needing to be torqued this might have been one of the smarter things that I've done in a while! Especially anyone doing a front disk conversion like I am, purchasing conversion parts that have been sitting out rusting in a garage or shop for years. I can hand thread the studs till they bottom out now. Anti-seize on everything except caliper bolts, haha. Very much worth it! You can also rent this thread chasing set from O'Rileys. I also installed the races in the hub and Marlin inner axle seal. Next I will paint the knuckle parts and install! Thanks to Georg @orangefj45 for the great parts, advice and info!! Below is the thread chasing set.
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Yes nice getting parts cleaned up as you go-like starting new again. Nice work
 
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Knuckle, spindle and hub have been blasted, primed and painted with high temp paint. The wife is out of town hints the glamour shots on the kitchen counter.
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Got new lug studs and rotors a few weeks back. I'll be bolting to rotor to the hub in the morning after the paint dries and having the studs pressed in at the machine shop. I'll be putting the driver side back together this weekend.
 
Keep up the good work and pics! Wish I had taken the time to blast and paint my hubs during rotor change.
 
KingAir Driver said:
Keep up the good work and pics! Wish I had taken the time to blast and paint my hubs during rotor change.
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Thanks y'all! Will do.. Just changing rotors on these sure would be a pain. It's also a slippery slope, as you said @KingAir Driver you could paint the knuckles and while you're in there may as well put new inner seals in. My front pinion seal is leaking pretty bad too so no telling what that will lead to. Perhaps new u joints. I've got the marlin seal for it already. But if u joints ain't broke don't fix it I guess.
 
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Got the new knuckle studs installed, packed the trunion bearings, put the new wipers in place, installed the knuckle and torqued the steering arm and bottom cap.

I got 11 Lbs of drag on the steering arm/knuckle with the fish scale. The 60 FSM says 13 Lbs max so I guess that'll work. I'm using the 60 specs because these are 60s knuckles. I hope that's the right thing to do!? hahaha. If it needs more shims, that'll be 2 thick shims top and bottom which seems excessive. As of now a thick and thin on top and two thick on the bottom.

Thoughts?
 
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Lubed up the birf, oiled the shaft, inserted into the axle housing, packed as much moly grease into the knuckle as I could, installed the spindle with gasket, bolted up the backing plate eliminator, gasket and dust ring.. Torqued the spindle bolts to 33 ft/lbs. I'm getting pumped!! It's a lot of fun seeing things come together.
 
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Got back home this afternoon and started work on the 40 again. Packed/inserted the inner wheel bearing, installed new hub seal, packed outer bearing, installed hub/rotor assembly on the spindle, installed thrust washer, installed hub retaining nut, used the @Coolerman wheel bearing torque method, installed star/lock washer and lock nut.
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Mounted and torqued the caliper to 90 ft/lbs.
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Inserted the ceramic brake pads and hardware.

Question: The bleeder is supposed to be mounted in the up position to better remove air bubbles correct?
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Inserted the brass split ring and rubber ring into the detent in the backside of the knuckle, mounted the felt and retaining rings while torquing down to 5 ft/lbs. Tomorrow, the locking hub and wheel installation!!
 
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Installed hub studs, gasket, the hub body, temporarily installed the hub dial because I need to refurb it and installed new braided brake line. Ready to mount the rim and tire!!
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Installed TRE shim in the 60s steering arm to be able to use the 40s TRE.
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Installed new TRE. They say to paint the TRE after installation. I still need to torque it and make sure all is lined up. Also need to install a new zerk. ANTI SIEZE IS YOUR FRIEND..
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As you can see from the backside of the rim.... This rebuild has been a long time coming!! The rim used to be white.
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Cleaned up all the tools and organized them for the passenger side knuckle rebuild. I plan on tackling the other side on Saturday in one sitting now that I have a better idea of how to do things and have all necessary parts.
 
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Looking good! That'll be a nice upgrade once you're done! The other side will go quick since you got the process down.
 
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